aircon problem
25 May 2011, 08:45 PM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: kent
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
aircon problem
Hi all had my aircon regassed about a month ago worked perfect only use car mainly weekends (v4 type-r) thought id take her out today put aircon on and air was not cold enough then popped bonnet and heard a metalic noise coming from aircon motor is it worth me just buying a 2nd hand one or reconing my unit? also ive heard the system has to be emptied of gas first? thanks ian
25 May 2011, 09:26 PM
#2
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bolton
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep you should to get the gas removed first
Was the engine running when you heard the metalic noise?
if so under normal operation the pump will engage and disengage with a metalic sounding click noise. You should be able to see the centre section of the pump stop or start spinning. Most likely you have a leak in your system. There should be places in your local area that will be able to do a leak test on your aircon system.
Was the engine running when you heard the metalic noise?
if so under normal operation the pump will engage and disengage with a metalic sounding click noise. You should be able to see the centre section of the pump stop or start spinning. Most likely you have a leak in your system. There should be places in your local area that will be able to do a leak test on your aircon system.
25 May 2011, 09:26 PM
#3
Take it to reputable service garage ask for a leak test+ re-gass and also get some compressor oil added to the system,
The compressors can be slightly noisy in operation
They also like to be run at least once a week to circulate the gas and lubricate the parts!
Also check the fan works whilst its in operation
The compressors can be slightly noisy in operation
They also like to be run at least once a week to circulate the gas and lubricate the parts!
Also check the fan works whilst its in operation
25 May 2011, 09:49 PM
#4
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: kent
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks i can hear gas going through pipes inside the car where abouts is the fan? also is there many places the gas can leak from?
p.s went to one quickfit and there machine couldnt empty the system but then i went to another but there machine could? could this be due to the poss leak?
ian
p.s went to one quickfit and there machine couldnt empty the system but then i went to another but there machine could? could this be due to the poss leak?
ian
Last edited by subaruian; 25 May 2011 at 09:52 PM. Reason: added text
25 May 2011, 09:56 PM
#5
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bolton
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just because you can hear gas going through the pipes does not mean there is sufficient gas in there. insufficient gas will give you poor aircon operation. iirc both fans on the radiatior should be running when the aircon is on. and yes every joint can leak and the rubber hoses can become porous and the tubes can become cracked. The best bet would be the joints though
25 May 2011, 10:00 PM
#6
Thanks i can hear gas going through pipes inside the car where abouts is the fan? also is there many places the gas can leak from?
p.s went to one quickfit and there machine couldnt empty the system but then i went to another but there machine could? could this be due to the poss leak?
ian
p.s went to one quickfit and there machine couldnt empty the system but then i went to another but there machine could? could this be due to the poss leak?
ian
leak or no leak it wouldn't cause a problem with the de-gas
Last edited by scottydog137; 25 May 2011 at 10:03 PM.
25 May 2011, 10:15 PM
#12
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bolton
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For the fans it depends on vehicle speed and coolant temperature but with the vehicle stationary both fans should be on.
You need to find somewhere that can do a leak test for you there are two ways of doing this one is with a detector that can smell the refirigerant the other and better way is to do a smoke test which uses presureised air with smoke in it to show where the leak is. then you will know what part to replace.
Ah yes forgot the condensor is on the front and likely to suffer from stone damage.
You need to find somewhere that can do a leak test for you there are two ways of doing this one is with a detector that can smell the refirigerant the other and better way is to do a smoke test which uses presureised air with smoke in it to show where the leak is. then you will know what part to replace.
Ah yes forgot the condensor is on the front and likely to suffer from stone damage.
25 May 2011, 10:17 PM
#13
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bolton
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The "smell the refirgerant method will be from a specialist the other method is used to detect other kinds of leaks as well so could be any garage.
I know where you can get it done round here.........................................
25 May 2011, 10:22 PM
#14
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: kent
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for advise chaps looks like a leak test it is then one more thing if it is one of the joints id be better off replacing all the joints while im at it?
ian
ian
25 May 2011, 10:23 PM
#15
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: kent
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For the fans it depends on vehicle speed and coolant temperature but with the vehicle stationary both fans should be on.
You need to find somewhere that can do a leak test for you there are two ways of doing this one is with a detector that can smell the refirigerant the other and better way is to do a smoke test which uses presureised air with smoke in it to show where the leak is. then you will know what part to replace.
Ah yes forgot the condensor is on the front and likely to suffer from stone damage.
You need to find somewhere that can do a leak test for you there are two ways of doing this one is with a detector that can smell the refirigerant the other and better way is to do a smoke test which uses presureised air with smoke in it to show where the leak is. then you will know what part to replace.
Ah yes forgot the condensor is on the front and likely to suffer from stone damage.
25 May 2011, 10:24 PM
#16
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bolton
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
25 May 2011, 10:26 PM
#17
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bolton
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
26 June 2011, 06:33 PM
#19
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Bookham, Surrey, UK
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Subaruian
Have you had this done yet and did it affect the metallic noise?
My aircon pump seems to be making a distinctive clonk along with a "psst" type noise which I only hear with the sunroof/window open. There also seems to be a brown coating on an adjacent cowling which appears to have flown off the compressor. The aircon also seems very ineffective - I tend to have it on all the time, even through winter, so, hopefully, the seals will be OK.
Have you had this done yet and did it affect the metallic noise?
My aircon pump seems to be making a distinctive clonk along with a "psst" type noise which I only hear with the sunroof/window open. There also seems to be a brown coating on an adjacent cowling which appears to have flown off the compressor. The aircon also seems very ineffective - I tend to have it on all the time, even through winter, so, hopefully, the seals will be OK.
28 June 2011, 08:50 AM
#20
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Bookham, Surrey, UK
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why not? Don't they offer a money back guarantee if the resulting output temperature is not 10% lower?
10% lower would be practically impossible as percentage change can only be measured on an absolute scale not a relative scale. ie assuming an existing output temperature of, say, 15degC (or 288K) 10% is equivalent to 28.8K or nearly 29degC and so they would have to achieve something like -14degC.
Not practically possible, therefore, gas changed and money back - QED!
10% lower would be practically impossible as percentage change can only be measured on an absolute scale not a relative scale. ie assuming an existing output temperature of, say, 15degC (or 288K) 10% is equivalent to 28.8K or nearly 29degC and so they would have to achieve something like -14degC.
Not practically possible, therefore, gas changed and money back - QED!
Last edited by GeeDee; 02 July 2011 at 06:04 PM.
01 July 2011, 08:46 PM
#21
Why not? Don't they offer a money back guarantee if the resulting output temperature is not 10% lower?
10% lower would be practically impossible as percentage change can only be measured on an absolute scale not a relative scale. ie assuming an existing output temperature of, say, 15degC (or 288K) 10% is equivalent to 28.8K or nearly 29degC and so they would have to achieve something like -14C.
Not practically possible, therefore, gas changed and money back - QED!
10% lower would be practically impossible as percentage change can only be measured on an absolute scale not a relative scale. ie assuming an existing output temperature of, say, 15degC (or 288K) 10% is equivalent to 28.8K or nearly 29degC and so they would have to achieve something like -14C.
Not practically possible, therefore, gas changed and money back - QED!
Re-gas yes i probably would,
Diagnosis and repair i would never go to them ive personally seen some "repairs" done by them!!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post