Rotten STi subframe query
#31
ALL bugeyes suffer from rotten subframe syndrome.
I have lost count of the number I have seen.
The U frame and the front cross member are usual culprits, along with the rear subframe.
I wouldn't let that put you off buying the car if the rest of it is fine, just allow a few quid off the asking price.
I have lost count of the number I have seen.
The U frame and the front cross member are usual culprits, along with the rear subframe.
I wouldn't let that put you off buying the car if the rest of it is fine, just allow a few quid off the asking price.
#32
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I'd put the reg up, but I've forgotten it now and I've no way of checking any longer I'm afraid. It was VX52... something.
The next owner wrote to me a month or so after I took it back, having found it odd that I'd only owned it for five days. I gave him all the details and off he went to see if it had been repaired. He had an AA or RAC check done on it and they reckoned it was okay.
However, I wonder if they bothered to take the undertray and inner wing covers off to look properly, but I doubt it somehow, and you couldn't see it had been bodged without doing that.
He'd also been given a **** and bull story by the dealer, which he was convinced was true, about the brakes being 'racing ones that need to be warmed up before they work properly'. Nothing to do with them being completely knackered of course.
I found a load out from the MoT history site, including how it had failed in mid-January 2011 for 'dangerous brakes' and miraculously passed a week later with 'minor pitting to brake discs', no work apparently having been done.
If the dealer hadn't given me a full refund, I'd have taken it to court and he'd have been right in the mire. I think he knew it too.
The next owner wrote to me a month or so after I took it back, having found it odd that I'd only owned it for five days. I gave him all the details and off he went to see if it had been repaired. He had an AA or RAC check done on it and they reckoned it was okay.
However, I wonder if they bothered to take the undertray and inner wing covers off to look properly, but I doubt it somehow, and you couldn't see it had been bodged without doing that.
He'd also been given a **** and bull story by the dealer, which he was convinced was true, about the brakes being 'racing ones that need to be warmed up before they work properly'. Nothing to do with them being completely knackered of course.
I found a load out from the MoT history site, including how it had failed in mid-January 2011 for 'dangerous brakes' and miraculously passed a week later with 'minor pitting to brake discs', no work apparently having been done.
If the dealer hadn't given me a full refund, I'd have taken it to court and he'd have been right in the mire. I think he knew it too.
#36
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You really gotta keep these Japanese cars clean underneath, regardless of whether they're imports or built for the European markets. I have a 2005 STi and theres spots of rust here and there.
In comparison, my wife's 1999 Golf, doesn't have a speck of rust underneath.
In comparison, my wife's 1999 Golf, doesn't have a speck of rust underneath.
#37
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I'm trying to sort out all the rusty bits underneath my 2005 car too. It's amazing how they go so quickly. There's nothing serious yet, but it wouldn't be too long before there was if I left it.
#38
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Hi all
I have a 01 uk300 Bug and yes I have the same problem,not quite as bad as op but still will need changing for mot in January...changing being the key word..I have been told by 2 people that the sub frame is not required and can take it off with no detriment. Been told its really there to hold the under trays etc...???
I have a 01 uk300 Bug and yes I have the same problem,not quite as bad as op but still will need changing for mot in January...changing being the key word..I have been told by 2 people that the sub frame is not required and can take it off with no detriment. Been told its really there to hold the under trays etc...???
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Hi all
I have a 01 uk300 Bug and yes I have the same problem,not quite as bad as op but still will need changing for mot in January...changing being the key word..I have been told by 2 people that the sub frame is not required and can take it off with no detriment. Been told its really there to hold the under trays etc...???
I have a 01 uk300 Bug and yes I have the same problem,not quite as bad as op but still will need changing for mot in January...changing being the key word..I have been told by 2 people that the sub frame is not required and can take it off with no detriment. Been told its really there to hold the under trays etc...???
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#44
£80 quid, I'm down near Maidstone in Kent..... if someone wanted to arrange their own courier then thats fine, Only reason I advertised it as collection only as it cost me £30 postage when I brought it...
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#50
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My 2003 Blob STi was in for undersealing and found rusty horseshoe subframe and the one that holds steering rack etc. was holed. I've ordered up a good condition one from Jap Performance Parts and will have it powdercoated. The horsehoe one will be rubbed down and painted as it wasn't so bad.
It seems like most of the cars in the UK have rusted subframes...
It seems like most of the cars in the UK have rusted subframes...
#51
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On my 2005 Blob, I took mine off, dunked it in a plasterer's bath:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p64497
Filled with this:
http://www.bilthamber.com/deox-c
And, after a couple of weeks of patient washing down and re-dunking (hint - don't rub the rust off in the Deox-C bath - it contaminates it more quickly, take it outside and hose it down), I coated it in this:
http://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/electrox
And finally black Hammerite 'Smoothrite'.
Then I pumped a load of this inside:
http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50
That should hold it for a bit!
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p64497
Filled with this:
http://www.bilthamber.com/deox-c
And, after a couple of weeks of patient washing down and re-dunking (hint - don't rub the rust off in the Deox-C bath - it contaminates it more quickly, take it outside and hose it down), I coated it in this:
http://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/electrox
And finally black Hammerite 'Smoothrite'.
Then I pumped a load of this inside:
http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50
That should hold it for a bit!
#53
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Well, my subframe arrived from Jap Performance Parts.... WOW.. it's like new, off a low mileage import and seriously a bargain at £85... It's now off to be powder coated, although it doesn't really need it, better to do it properly...
#55
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I'm a firm believer if those ever so clever Japanese engineers designed it that way, it's there for a reason... If mine is too far gone for wire brush/hammerite/underseal then will get another one and have it powdercoated also...
#56
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I understand what you are saying though. I wonder did they ever test without it.
#57
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being so far under the engine, I doubt it would be much of a saviour.
The same guys that saw no need to put a plastic cover on the inner bootlid, a steering wheel adjustment that lifts the wheel barely over my legs and an cat in the uppipe, were two others not good enough?
I understand what you are saying though. I wonder did they ever test without it.
The same guys that saw no need to put a plastic cover on the inner bootlid, a steering wheel adjustment that lifts the wheel barely over my legs and an cat in the uppipe, were two others not good enough?
I understand what you are saying though. I wonder did they ever test without it.
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These rot out all the time and we probably sold 6 or 7 this year. They are a ridiculous price from Subaru - something well over 500 quid and YES it is an MOT fail. BUT if you take it off, it doesn't appear to make any difference to the way the cars behaves and if it ain't there it cannot fail the MOT, cos not all cars have them . It isn't fitted to Spec C's.
David APi
David APi