How to change headers and up- pipe on a classic- how difficult?
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How to change headers and up- pipe on a classic- how difficult?
Im thinking of changing my setup, and removing the twin scroll system.
My question is how difficult is it to change the headers and up- pipe? I live in Jersey so a trip to a local specialist isnt an option, and would prefer to do it myself if I can.
Does the engine need to come out to do it?
All help appreciated.
Thanks
Grant
My question is how difficult is it to change the headers and up- pipe? I live in Jersey so a trip to a local specialist isnt an option, and would prefer to do it myself if I can.
Does the engine need to come out to do it?
All help appreciated.
Thanks
Grant
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hi mate
you dont need to remove the engine, to get more space tmic needs to come out, turbo out, once thats done you will see the turbo up-pipe bracket attached to the engine remove that, then you need to get under the car so A/stands (safety) remove 3bolts each side of the headers attached to the cilynder heads use some WD40 on it once the bolts are removed the headers and up-pipe are ready to drop down (watch your head), hope this helps it might sound alot to do but it isnt. make sure you use good socket set.
you dont need to remove the engine, to get more space tmic needs to come out, turbo out, once thats done you will see the turbo up-pipe bracket attached to the engine remove that, then you need to get under the car so A/stands (safety) remove 3bolts each side of the headers attached to the cilynder heads use some WD40 on it once the bolts are removed the headers and up-pipe are ready to drop down (watch your head), hope this helps it might sound alot to do but it isnt. make sure you use good socket set.
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hi mate
you dont need to remove the engine, to get more space tmic needs to come out, turbo out, once thats done you will see the turbo up-pipe bracket attached to the engine remove that, then you need to get under the car so A/stands (safety) remove 3bolts each side of the headers attached to the cilynder heads use some WD40 on it once the bolts are removed the headers and up-pipe are ready to drop down (watch your head), hope this helps it might sound alot to do but it isnt. make sure you use good socket set.
you dont need to remove the engine, to get more space tmic needs to come out, turbo out, once thats done you will see the turbo up-pipe bracket attached to the engine remove that, then you need to get under the car so A/stands (safety) remove 3bolts each side of the headers attached to the cilynder heads use some WD40 on it once the bolts are removed the headers and up-pipe are ready to drop down (watch your head), hope this helps it might sound alot to do but it isnt. make sure you use good socket set.
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i'm sure there is more than enough help to be had from here, let us know how you get on mate
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1 small tip I can give you is to replace the stock spring clips on the turbo oil return with 2 wormdrive clips.
The stock spring type ones do not reseal as good as they used to (hose is a bit hardened over time)and using a jubilee clamp will save you from having to replace the stock ones if the happen to leak.
The stock spring type ones do not reseal as good as they used to (hose is a bit hardened over time)and using a jubilee clamp will save you from having to replace the stock ones if the happen to leak.
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After all that I may not change as I dont think the spool on the setup I was looking at is as fast as my VF37, but may take the pipes off to see how rough the ends are compared to the gasket.
BTW, I laughed at Dutch Scooby Lover- the tip is spot on, and your sig says Chief Bodger! Love it
BTW, I laughed at Dutch Scooby Lover- the tip is spot on, and your sig says Chief Bodger! Love it
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Well. after my first swap (on axle stands, on the driveway) I did not change them out.
So I had a nice trail of 10w60 Castrol along the driveway before I noticed it.
Had to push the car back, put it back on axle stands, and decided to remove the turbo again to fit hose clamps (after1 hour of trying to get the hose clamps on, with the turbo/return hose in situ.
I vowed there and then to put the hose clamp advise in every topic about turbo swaps/header work I see.
So I had a nice trail of 10w60 Castrol along the driveway before I noticed it.
Had to push the car back, put it back on axle stands, and decided to remove the turbo again to fit hose clamps (after1 hour of trying to get the hose clamps on, with the turbo/return hose in situ.
I vowed there and then to put the hose clamp advise in every topic about turbo swaps/header work I see.
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