liambcz

My car died on me on the way home from work yesterday. pulled over and then it started again and got me home now it wont start. i am thinking that it is fuel related and i cant hear the pump priming. the relay is clicking on ignition then clicking again a couple of seconds later. checked the wiring under rear seat and it is ok but the connector pins look a little corroded.
i have narrowed it down to being either the fuel pump, the relays or the immobiliser cutting the power to the pump.

i was planning on getting a multimeter to narrow the fault down but dont know where to start

How do i check for power at pump and relays etc... and am i going about this the right way?

please help

Hobstar82

Get volt meter and check to see if you got voltage with ignition on at the plug for the pump or switch ignition on and slap bottom of tank and see if pump starts up. If you got power at plug or pump starts with a slap then pumps fooked

dan2926

iTrader: (4)

See link may come in handy
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-starting.html

liambcz

thanks for help tried slapping tank and nothing. waiting to get hold of a voltmeter to rule out the pump. if it is not the pump then do i test the relays to see if they have got power going to them?

Hobstar82

Did you slap under drivers side where pump is (sometimes works but not always) If you got no power at the plug with ignition on then yes you need to find where power loss is. Another one to check is the black plug under the back seat driver side, these can corrode and cause probs too I believe

liambcz

thanks pal i have read this thread already. been searching all morning and i am thinking it is most likely the alarm/immobiliser that is causing this problem but i need to try and rule out the pump and relays first.

is there any way i could know for sure it is the alarm/immobiliser without ruling everything else out first?
i have never even used a voltmeter before and i just keep reading posts about getting so many volts here and so many volts there. i dont have a clue but i will give it a whirl.
i read that you can test pump by putting a live feed to it using a battery. how do i do that?

bugeyejohn

iTrader: (11)

If you haven't got a multimeter you can use a 12v bulb to check the voltage is getting through ok.Check your fuses also as the fuel pump is fused and if all that fails swap a relay over to see if that cures it.

richgreenscooby1

iTrader: (2)

if its not the fuel pump it could be the usuall sigma alarm relay blown up in the control box , that is if you have a sigma alarm .

hope its the pump for a simple fix .

liambcz

thanks for help everyone
checked fuses inside car and in engine bay. all seem fine but i did notice that 80amp sbf 1 is corroded. anyone any ideas what this fuse is for?

i will do a few tests and see what results i get

sweden

iTrader: (2)

have u tried connecting direct power to the fuel pump?

liambcz

i am useless! whats the easiest way of doing this? do i need some wire and how/where do i connect it to? sorry if this sounds stupid but i really have no understanding about electrical stuff

sweden

iTrader: (2)

hi matey ok so your going to take a length of wire form the positive red cable on battery and touch it to the terminal on your fuel pump, this should activate it and you should here it running, not sure on the scooby pump but if it has 2 terminals on top and you cant see that one of the terminals is connected to the car body then you will also need to rake a wire from the battery negative and attach to the 2nd terminal, WHAT ever you do do not let the red live wire touch the car body or the other lead other wise you will get some burnt fingers and blown fuses

if you got some old speaker wire lying around that will work fine if its long enough doesnt need to be anything special

bugeyejohn

iTrader: (11)

As above my bugeye diagram shows 2 wires to the pump black for earth brown for positive.

sweden

iTrader: (2)

cheersfor that john

liambcz

thanks for everyones help
tested pump it was fine.
tested relay that too was fine.

turned out to be the common sigma alarm/immobiliser problem.
once i had found where it was spliced in and bypassed the immobiliser it fired up straight away

how can the problem be fixed permanently though because i presume the immobiliser wont work properly with this temporary measure?

thanks again to everyone on here dont know what i would do without scoobynet

liambcz

you were right it was the sigma fault!

have you managed to sort the problem out permanently?

bugeyejohn

iTrader: (11)

http://forums.sidc.co.uk/topic/96215...s/page__st__60
Read post 92 down theres mention of a similar problem there if thats no good you need to try a replacement m30 alarm ecu.