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Old 31 January 2011, 04:34 PM
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scoobzal
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Default Limp mode low boost.

I could do with some advise on a problem im suffering

Right my car went into limp mode the other day only seeing 10psi sometimes more but felt horrible. I put this down to how made the headers and up-pipe were leaking. These have now been replaced and also have a oem dump valve on there to replace the bailey.

I did the most comon cleaned the boost controller, maf, and disconneted the battery. Then took the car for a drive again and boost was back and fine for only a short while then went back into limp mode.

When reading the codes it comes up with cam shalf postion sensor which it allways has but for piece of mind I took this off and cleaned it and once again disconnected the battery. Then bobs you uncle boost was back again but still just for a short while. when the headers were leaking I ob had a cel light up but Jon reset this when he done the work today. Now I just get it flash at me for a number of times then goes back out

This is now driving me mad and need to sort it before Thurs when the car is maped and tweaks the new headers and up-pipe. Any help would be great and could save the car going to the scrap yard or getting a big dent in it
Old 31 January 2011, 04:38 PM
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AndyStiWagon
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you need to reset the ecu id say with the green and black connectors under the steering column.

The cel flashes are what denotes your engine probs
Old 31 January 2011, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyStiWagon
you need to reset the ecu id say with the green and black connectors under the steering column.

The cel flashes are what denotes your engine probs

I did reset the ecu this morning when the fault codes were read.

the codes that come up were
Maf
cam shalf pos sensor
and boost controller

I cant see a maf would cause it and I did clean this as it was dirty along with the other two. When the car had bad leaking headers it throgh loads of codes.

what do you mean by what denotes yours engine probs do you mean count the flashes for a code.
Old 31 January 2011, 04:43 PM
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musso2010
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Id replace the camshaft sensor for a start.
Old 31 January 2011, 04:51 PM
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Thats what im in the process of doing but been told it usally is down to a earth and can though a code but also be the sensor on the gearbox.???

I just wanna get this sorted its driving me mad
Old 31 January 2011, 04:52 PM
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AndyStiWagon
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yes bud i think the long slow flashes denotes 10

and short quick flases denotes one

similar to a morse code type thing

ill see if i can find thread on here and post u the link
Old 31 January 2011, 04:54 PM
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Thanks mate would be a great help.

I thought that if there was a problem with the cam shalf sensor the car wouldnt start so kinda dont wanna waste money on one to find out its not that.

what bugs me is if I disconnect the battery and clean everything the boost come back just not for long
Old 31 January 2011, 04:59 PM
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musso2010
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http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...eadingECUCodes

I would try and get hold of a BCS and fit that...

But try this also, instead of removing the battery to clear the codes use the green and black plugs like Andy said.
Old 31 January 2011, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by scoobzal

I thought that if there was a problem with the cam shalf sensor the car wouldnt start so kinda dont wanna waste money on one to find out its not that.
It will still start, but it wont fire correctly. If its throwing up a cam sensor code then there is an issue with it.
Old 31 January 2011, 05:02 PM
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Bcs ?

sorry prob me being stupid but what is this
Old 31 January 2011, 05:03 PM
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Boost control solenoid.
Have you checked for any split pipes? And also, what mods are fitted to it for it to require the mapping?
Old 31 January 2011, 05:06 PM
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Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Impreza’s only)
On Classic shape Impreza’s only (not Newage) faults can be displayed as pulses of the Check Engine Light. If the Check Engine Light goes out there is no fault.

In order to perform diagnostic (and ECU resets) you will need to connect some wires together under your steering column. Note, the following procedure only works for Classic shape Impreza’s, not for Newage.

Make sure your ignition is OFF
Connect the Black ‘Read Memory’ connectors together as illustrated below at end of page.

Figure 1 - Black and Green Connectors on Classic Impreza
When the Black connectors are connected you are in diagnostics mode. Turn your ignition ON and ‘read’ the ECU code(s) being reported according to the following instructions. Note, you may here relays clicking and your fan starting and stopping - this is normal when in diagnostics mode.

In Diagnostic Mode – No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset). When finished Dianosing disconnect the Black connectors


Figure 2 - Check Engine Light Pulse Width
The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds).

The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed.

(See Example Below)

--- CODE EXAMPLE, SINGLE CODE ---

1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)
(Code 23 — MAF Sensor)

--- CODE EXAMPLE, MULTIPLE CODE ---

1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)
1.8 second pause (this means NEW code)

1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 11)
0.2 second pause
.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 12)
(Codes 23 and 12, MAF Sensor and Starter Circuit)
Old 31 January 2011, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by musso2010
Boost control solenoid.
Have you checked for any split pipes? And also, what mods are fitted to it for it to require the mapping?

Sorry should of quessed that lol yea its fine iv checked for leaks cleaned it and also made sure it clicks. My car is running

Vf35
550 pinks
harvey special up-pipe and gt2 spec headers
3.5inch aps turbo back
walbro
ngk7s
Kn pannel
sti top mount
and race dynamix map


When I look up the dash there are 4 plugs 1 white 2 green and 1 black only the greens plug togther do I do this with the ignition on or off.
Old 31 January 2011, 05:21 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by AndyStiWagon
Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Impreza’s only)
On Classic shape Impreza’s only (not Newage) faults can be displayed as pulses of the Check Engine Light. If the Check Engine Light goes out there is no fault.

In order to perform diagnostic (and ECU resets) you will need to connect some wires together under your steering column. Note, the following procedure only works for Classic shape Impreza’s, not for Newage.

Make sure your ignition is OFF
Connect the Black ‘Read Memory’ connectors together as illustrated below at end of page.

Figure 1 - Black and Green Connectors on Classic Impreza
When the Black connectors are connected you are in diagnostics mode. Turn your ignition ON and ‘read’ the ECU code(s) being reported according to the following instructions. Note, you may here relays clicking and your fan starting and stopping - this is normal when in diagnostics mode.

In Diagnostic Mode – No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset). When finished Dianosing disconnect the Black connectors


Figure 2 - Check Engine Light Pulse Width
The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds).

The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed.

(See Example Below)

--- CODE EXAMPLE, SINGLE CODE ---

1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)
(Code 23 — MAF Sensor)

--- CODE EXAMPLE, MULTIPLE CODE ---

1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
1.3 second pulse (10….for a total of 20)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 21)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 22)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 23)
1.8 second pause (this means NEW code)

1.3 second pulse (10)
0.2 second pause
0.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 11)
0.2 second pause
.2 second pulse (1…..for a total of 12)
(Codes 23 and 12, MAF Sensor and Starter Circuit)

before reading this I have connected the two green connectors with the ignition off didnt know you cant do this on a newage hope I havnt caused problems
Old 31 January 2011, 05:38 PM
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musso2010
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Ahh no, then the above is bollox then if its a newage! Its running crap cause it hasnt been mapped yet. Im sure once its been mapped it will be a lot better!
Old 31 January 2011, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by musso2010
Ahh no, then the above is bollox then if its a newage! Its running crap cause it hasnt been mapped yet. Im sure once its been mapped it will be a lot better!

Ok well Iv spoke to duncan and he said it should be fine after mapping it and just dont boost it. I only needs tweaking due to fitting new headers and up-pipe.

Hopefully fingers closed I will be sorted thursday
Old 31 January 2011, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by scoobzal
Ok well Iv spoke to duncan and he said it should be fine after mapping it and just dont boost it. I only needs tweaking due to fitting new headers and up-pipe.

Hopefully fingers closed I will be sorted thursday
I told you that the other day aswell Al

Just needs to be looked at again as it isnt the same car we mapped before.

Keep off boost til thursday ... please
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