Bag of spanners
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Bag of spanners
Hi, Merry Christams and a happy new year to you all!
Has anyone else noticed their forged engine sounds like a bag of spanners recently, i dont drive my car much and i wince at the sound everytime i start it up. is there anything i can do to make it less rattly?, it currently has 10 /50 silkolene pro in it, is it normal for forged engines to sound so bad for the 1st few minutes/miles, should i allow the engine to idle for 5mins before driving away.
Thanks Tristan
Has anyone else noticed their forged engine sounds like a bag of spanners recently, i dont drive my car much and i wince at the sound everytime i start it up. is there anything i can do to make it less rattly?, it currently has 10 /50 silkolene pro in it, is it normal for forged engines to sound so bad for the 1st few minutes/miles, should i allow the engine to idle for 5mins before driving away.
Thanks Tristan
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Depending on your choice of piston, forged engines can be VERY noisy when cold!
Someone on here once described it as sounding like:
A skeleton w*nking in a biscuit barrel
It's just the pistons needing heat to expand; pistons with low silicon content are the biggest offenders.
If it gets quieter when the cars warms up it's nothing to worry about and if APi built it, it'll be fine!!
PS What did you have done??
Someone on here once described it as sounding like:
A skeleton w*nking in a biscuit barrel
It's just the pistons needing heat to expand; pistons with low silicon content are the biggest offenders.
If it gets quieter when the cars warms up it's nothing to worry about and if APi built it, it'll be fine!!
PS What did you have done??
Last edited by New_scooby_04; 28 December 2010 at 02:27 PM.
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A skeleton w*nking in a biscuit barrel, haha love that decribes it perfectly!
i have no doubts about api's work, im sure they fitted omega pistons when it was rebuilt, the rattle dissapears after a couple of miles of taking it very easy once warm ,but im sure its more pronounced with this cold weather, i had a full forged rebuid after the bottom end developed a rattle after a rolling road shoot out day,
the build consisted of :-
nitarted crank
acl race bearings
api steel rods
omega pistons
uprated oil pump
walbro 255 fuel pump
decat downpipe
full 3inch exhaust
lightened flywheel
api exceddy clutch
550 injectors
harveys tdo5 18g
3port B/S
is the 10/50 oil to thick for the cold winter and would it benefit from a 10/40
Thanks Tristan
i have no doubts about api's work, im sure they fitted omega pistons when it was rebuilt, the rattle dissapears after a couple of miles of taking it very easy once warm ,but im sure its more pronounced with this cold weather, i had a full forged rebuid after the bottom end developed a rattle after a rolling road shoot out day,
the build consisted of :-
nitarted crank
acl race bearings
api steel rods
omega pistons
uprated oil pump
walbro 255 fuel pump
decat downpipe
full 3inch exhaust
lightened flywheel
api exceddy clutch
550 injectors
harveys tdo5 18g
3port B/S
is the 10/50 oil to thick for the cold winter and would it benefit from a 10/40
Thanks Tristan
#10
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In sub zero temps 10w/40 and 10w/50 are pretty similar when cold (10w is its viscosity rating when cold). The noise is not from lack of lubrication nor oil thickness, its the piston skirt hitting the cylinder bore at bottom or top dead centre when the angle of the conrod changes. So long as this ceases when warm and oil consumption is not excessive, there is no problem.
A thicker oil that clings to the bores "should" dampen/cushion the noise more than a thinner oil. But you are not curing the cause of the noise (which isn't a problem anyway), its just insulating the noise, and obviously thicker oils aren't good for circulation to other more important parts of the engine.
No harm is asking oilman though.
My advice; park the car in a heated garage (only needs to be 5 to 10 degrees) or turn up the radio.
A thicker oil that clings to the bores "should" dampen/cushion the noise more than a thinner oil. But you are not curing the cause of the noise (which isn't a problem anyway), its just insulating the noise, and obviously thicker oils aren't good for circulation to other more important parts of the engine.
No harm is asking oilman though.
My advice; park the car in a heated garage (only needs to be 5 to 10 degrees) or turn up the radio.
Last edited by ALi-B; 28 December 2010 at 04:35 PM.
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Reading this with interest as looking into a forged build as close to the limit on my bugeye STi on standard internals. 416 bhp at 102k miles still running smoothly, I know it sounds rough with the GEMS ecu when cold so GEMS + bag of spanners = louder stereo. So best plan that aswell.
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Reading this with interest as looking into a forged build as close to the limit on my bugeye STi on standard internals. 416 bhp at 102k miles still running smoothly, I know it sounds rough with the GEMS ecu when cold so GEMS + bag of spanners = louder stereo. So best plan that aswell.
Ns04
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ALi-B, everything seems fine once the engine is warm, and the car never uses a drop of oil between changes, the reason i asked if a 10/40 would have been better was im sure i read on here a few days ago that someone swapped between 10/40 -10/50 dependant on summer and winter, but you seem to of answered my question, so il probably just stick with the 10/50 silkolene which was recomended by opie oils.
my car is garaged when not being used so thats as much as i can do i suppose, dont think il bother heating it tho just turn that stereo up full
my car is garaged when not being used so thats as much as i can do i suppose, dont think il bother heating it tho just turn that stereo up full
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Another API forged engine owner here - and yes, it's noisy when cold, but quietens down nicely once it's thoroughly warmed up. In fact with a fresh tank of V-power and sub-zero temperatures outside it's as smooth as silk
It uses a bit of oil too, but seems better since I've made a point of letting the engine run for a couple of minutes after a cold start before moving off.
It uses a bit of oil too, but seems better since I've made a point of letting the engine run for a couple of minutes after a cold start before moving off.
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