Code 45 and fuel cut
Hi folks,
I went to pick up a curry last night, and after giving it some beans off an island the car boosted upto 20psi, and hit fuel cut. Flashed up a CEL and its code 45 which i assume is the map sensor.
Mods are, PP chip, Full decat, FMIC, Induction kit, Dump valve.
Question is, was that due to the extreme cold weather? And would hitting boost cut cause the CEL to come on, or is it coming on because there is a fault somewhere?
Also, straight after that, the car lost all throttle response for about 3 seconds, as if the throttle cable had snapped or the engine had been switched off.
I went to pick up a curry last night, and after giving it some beans off an island the car boosted upto 20psi, and hit fuel cut. Flashed up a CEL and its code 45 which i assume is the map sensor.
Mods are, PP chip, Full decat, FMIC, Induction kit, Dump valve.
Question is, was that due to the extreme cold weather? And would hitting boost cut cause the CEL to come on, or is it coming on because there is a fault somewhere?
Also, straight after that, the car lost all throttle response for about 3 seconds, as if the throttle cable had snapped or the engine had been switched off.
Do a full ECU reset and see if you get the all clear.

I cant do a full propper ecu reset because im running a PP chip in a V7 ecu. It throws up a fake code and puts my car into limp mode if i do, its most annoying.
Throttle cable is all fine, but got code 45.
Do you think the sensor could be faulty? Or do you think i just hit boost cut due to the cold? Also, the car is damn thirsty lately, £15 of petrol and after 22 miles i need to fill up again !
Throttle cable is all fine, but got code 45.
Do you think the sensor could be faulty? Or do you think i just hit boost cut due to the cold? Also, the car is damn thirsty lately, £15 of petrol and after 22 miles i need to fill up again !

A common cause of decreased economy is a failing lambda. You can check it with a multi-meter at the ECU or the plug under the bonnet.
Just a thought Musso. It might be worth fitting a map switch on your J1 link. That way you could switch to OE map, do a full reset procedure and read codes. Then switch back to PP afterwards.
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