Check engine light problem????
#1
Check engine light problem????
Hi all,
Im new to scoobynet but have read through forums and found many of u are very helpful with questions so i hope you can help me.
For a couple of weeks my 95 wrx has been driving a bit strange in the way that it judders when cold and idling, and i noticed there was a slight blowing from my exhaust under the drivers side.I had it booked in for a service and bought a short term exhaust fixing kit until i had the money for new one, but last night the dreaded check engine light came on whilst driving and the fan was constantly on even though it was cold temperature and this morning i couldnt start it. I checked the usual things like petrol cap, water and oil but still it nearly starts but it just acts like its run out of petrol. (have checked that by the way) I have it booked in to be looked at next week but racking my brains to find out what it could be. I have researched myself a bit and found it could be to do with the hole in exhaust to do with the level of o2 or catalytic converter but i really am not sure. Is it safe to reset the check engine light to get the car to the garage?
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE can i hear your advice and views of past experiences with this sort of thing as i really cant wait til next week to get a big repair bill!!
whats the worse it could be?
Thanks for your time reading this.
Im new to scoobynet but have read through forums and found many of u are very helpful with questions so i hope you can help me.
For a couple of weeks my 95 wrx has been driving a bit strange in the way that it judders when cold and idling, and i noticed there was a slight blowing from my exhaust under the drivers side.I had it booked in for a service and bought a short term exhaust fixing kit until i had the money for new one, but last night the dreaded check engine light came on whilst driving and the fan was constantly on even though it was cold temperature and this morning i couldnt start it. I checked the usual things like petrol cap, water and oil but still it nearly starts but it just acts like its run out of petrol. (have checked that by the way) I have it booked in to be looked at next week but racking my brains to find out what it could be. I have researched myself a bit and found it could be to do with the hole in exhaust to do with the level of o2 or catalytic converter but i really am not sure. Is it safe to reset the check engine light to get the car to the garage?
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE can i hear your advice and views of past experiences with this sort of thing as i really cant wait til next week to get a big repair bill!!
whats the worse it could be?
Thanks for your time reading this.
#4
Scooby Regular
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A good start would be to do a fault code check using the black connectors. All the info you require is here: http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/ecu.asp.htm
And here: http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...eadingECUCodes
Post up your findings for further advice.
And here: http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...eadingECUCodes
Post up your findings for further advice.
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#10
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like B13BAT said, connect the 2 black plugs under the dash near the key (they will be tooked up near the steering column) turn the ignition on, count a long blink as 10 and a short blink as 1, add them up so you have a number and look on jolly green monsters site for the chart to find out what the number represents, pretty easy really.
#11
Thanks guys,
I connected the 2 green plugs and the 2 black plugs as directed on jolly green monster and the car started without the check engine light on. I left it running on idle for 10 mins and the CEL didnt come back on or flash to tell me the codes. I turned the car off and disconnected the green plugs and restarted car, the CEL came back on and stayed on whilst engine was running.
Any ideas?
I connected the 2 green plugs and the 2 black plugs as directed on jolly green monster and the car started without the check engine light on. I left it running on idle for 10 mins and the CEL didnt come back on or flash to tell me the codes. I turned the car off and disconnected the green plugs and restarted car, the CEL came back on and stayed on whilst engine was running.
Any ideas?
#12
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Just connect the black plugs and turn the ignition on and count the flashes and tell us how many long flashes and how many shorts flashes you get and then we will work out what code it is.
#13
I think according to the web the problems are
45 Pressure sensor / Pressure exchange solenoid valve
21 Engine coolant temperature sensor
24 Idle air control solenoid
and 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2
Sounds quite serious and expensive!
Are they common problems?
45 Pressure sensor / Pressure exchange solenoid valve
21 Engine coolant temperature sensor
24 Idle air control solenoid
and 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2
Sounds quite serious and expensive!
Are they common problems?
#16
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You need to book your car in to a decent dealer and get it sorted, there are too many codes there to say what the issue is, a dealer will be able to find the issue and replace the part thats failing/failed.
Also what fuel are you running?
Tony
#18
Well put it this way, I wouldnt go flying about anywhere in it
You need to book your car in to a decent dealer and get it sorted, there are too many codes there to say what the issue is, a dealer will be able to find the issue and replace the part thats failing/failed.
Also what fuel are you running?
Tony
You need to book your car in to a decent dealer and get it sorted, there are too many codes there to say what the issue is, a dealer will be able to find the issue and replace the part thats failing/failed.
Also what fuel are you running?
Tony
Just normal unleaded.
#19
#20
One thing i have noticed is when i reset the ecu, i leave the car running for a few minutes the check engine light doesnt flash once to show its reset.
Is that because the problems still there?
Is that because the problems still there?
#22
Luckily havnt had the car long so will use the super unleaded in future.
#24
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Get a bottle of octane booster in there, drive off boost, fill up with shell v power/tesco 99, reset the ecu again after filling up, ensure you have as much of that 95 out of the car as possible before doing so, also take it very easy!!!
Tony
#26
It depends on how hard you have driven her, det on the pistons can put holes in them, cause damage to the big end bearings due to stress, it could be that the car is reacting to the unleaded fuel badly (as they have no decent knock correction, its probably why its hesitant and lumpy).
Get a bottle of octane booster in there, drive off boost, fill up with shell v power/tesco 99, reset the ecu again after filling up, ensure you have as much of that 95 out of the car as possible before doing so, also take it very easy!!!
Tony
Get a bottle of octane booster in there, drive off boost, fill up with shell v power/tesco 99, reset the ecu again after filling up, ensure you have as much of that 95 out of the car as possible before doing so, also take it very easy!!!
Tony
I never drive it stupid around but i will definately be putting the higher octane fuel in there. i didnt think it was that important, i thought it was just performance.
#27
#28
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JDM's are mapped for higher octane fuel, the MY93-98's are all 97 ron, the MY99 to today are all 100 ron.
Classics dont have the best knock correction (actually its pretty dire tbh on the JDM's), UK cars are better as they are mapped for lower octane fuel.
Tony
Classics dont have the best knock correction (actually its pretty dire tbh on the JDM's), UK cars are better as they are mapped for lower octane fuel.
Tony
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