Scooby Frog

Hello everyone, any ideas or advice very greatly recived, need to get my scooby back up and running.

I have a dec 1997 registured classic impreza wagon. Its a wrx sti import from Japan. I have owned it for only a few months but have now hit a major issue with the turbo and or engine

Car has been running fine, very happy up untill the other day when we can home on the back on a recovery truck

Basically, been on the road for about hour and a half, all normal. Then whn giving it a bit of stick but nothing major i was getting very intermidant power delivery, through each gear and rev range. It was throwing me and my wife sat next to me forward and back. Next I lost all boost, car was accelerating very slowly but going through the revs still, no increase in speed, almost no acceleration. I then came to a junction and stopped. On trying to pull away in first again to carry on my way it jerked a couple of times and then cut out completly. After a few attempts it restarted but again as soon as I tried to pull away again it cut out and that was it, it would not restart

On looking under the bonnet it had leaked coolent out of the rubber overflow hose on top of the refill cap between the battery and headlamp fitting. Also discovered once the recovery mechanic arrived that the battery was flat.

No idea where to start with this, any help bringing my baby back to life would be amazing (this all happened within a couple of miles or so).

Since then I haven't touched her apart from removing the battery to recharge it.

Current mods are, k&n air filter cone, full turbo back stainless exhuast (unknown make) and a blitz turbo timer.

I had no warning lights on on the dash either, up untill then everything seemed to be fine, on the few occasions before then i have actually openned her up (once fully warmed up) the power delivery did seem lumpy as though it was being held back, not coming in as smoothly and as fast as it should?? But this is my first scooby so it that may just be me??

Many thanks for reading, Andy

rosssti

iTrader: (1)

Firstly id check all hoses intercooler and intercooler pipes, I had a simlar issue when I poped an intercooler pipe. Not sure why the battery would go flat so soon.

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Hi Andy,

As above, have you checked all boost/vac pipe work for splits/disconnection??

If so.

Put the charged battery back on and connect the 2 black wires under the drivers side lower dash. You will need to do this to enable you to get any fault codes from the ECU.

All the info you need to do this is here.

Post up the results and we'll see where to go from there.

You may need to try and start the car if you have no results. This will be down to the ECU being reset when you removed the battery. If so, disconnect the black diagnostic wires first. Then repeat the process.

Scooby Frog

Thank you very much! The battery is on charge as I speak. Will get under the bonnet again tomorrow for a very good look at all the hoses. Thanks for the advice reguarding the ecu codes to

Will let you know what happens.

Cheers, Andy

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

No problems, thats what SNet is about.

kevin wrx

iTrader: (1)

have u checked coolant level in radiator as seems weird it has lost water through the over flow tank,check oil for any white sludge,as for it too dump the water there must be related to u loosing power ie head gasket maybe,but im only making assumptions.

Scooby Frog

hey everyone,

Right, quick update before i have to rush off to a night at work

Put the charged battery back in and topped up the coolent levels.
I connected the two black connectors under the dash and put the ignition on. I only comes back with one flash every second saying everything is ok with the engine.

I started the engine, Started first time but sounds rough as. Idles slighty high, say 1200/1300 rpm when normaly it was just under 1000rpm. On giving a push on the accelerator it doesn't sound normal and most noticable is a very metalalic clicking sort of sound coming from the engine which is very distintive over the rest of the engine noise, which itself does sound off.

Hopefully i will have more time tomorrow, and the dry weather to go through the pipe work and look for splits etc. May take the intercooler and turbo off for a look?

Checked under the oil filler cap for mayo but its clean, maybe to early for any to form?

Thanks again for your help, Frog

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Did you try the black connectors again after you started it.? If not give it a go. As the ECU will have been reset, and any codes deleted due to the power being off.


It will have been cold, so 12-1300rpm is not really indictive of anything untoward.


The fact that it doesn't cut out or **** about when you touch the throttle is not nessisarily a good thing. Especially when acompanied by a metallic/mechanical noise.


If the problem is not immediatly obvious, then removing the I/C would be a very good move.

Are you suspecting the head gasket(s) here? Check the dip stick very carefully, you may be able to see a small amount of smeg on it if the HG has failed. Or for diffinite confirmation, get a sniffer test done (perhaps you local mobile mechanic can help there).

mit

iTrader: (10)

I think the big issue here is the coolant leaking. Did coolant/steam get on any of the electrics, especially the connectors next to the battery? These connectors carry all the injector/spark/crank/cam/ wiring and more. And steam or water in there could cause all sorts of running issues. Could also explain the flat battery.
Try starting the car, from cold with the water cap off, to see how much pressure you have. Also, your water temp may come up very quickly if you have a head gasket gone/exhaust fumes getting into the water. As above, you need to get the head gaskets checked.
Also, try popping a crank breather of the intake to see if you have exhaust fumes coming out(block the intake hole when the pipes off), this is another sign of head/piston damage.
Lastly, the ticking noise, are you sure it's the engine, and not the boost solenoid/injectors, as they can be quite noisy.

Mit

Scooby Frog

Does anyone know of any mobile mechanics in the Lincoln area who have Impreza experiance? Long shot i know, but need to nail the fault/s down so i can decide what to do.

Thanks.

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

What have you done in the last couple of days, did you get the I/C off and have a good look round for any thing obvious?

Have you tried the black connectors again after trying to start it again??

I don't think you nessisarily need a Subaru experienced mechanic, any decent mech should be able to give you an idea.
Failling that, http://www.lincolnsubaru.co.uk/ might be worth a call.

Scooby Frog

Hello again,

Right, I finally got round to taking the intercooler off yesterday. Only thing i could find wrong was one of the bolts that connects one branch of the air pipe to the bottom of the intercooler was missing. The pipe does look tight to the IC though. I cant find any damage to any of the pipe work.

I have reset the ecu fault code but not taken it for a drive yet, don't really want it failing on me again!

I had a good look at the oil cap and dipstick again, no signs of any mayo smeg.

Only other thing i have spotted is a white two cable connector hanging loose and not connected to anything. Its just behind the boost control solenoid etc. I honestly can't remember if it was like that before. Its right where the horn for the toad alarm is so was wondering if it was part of the oe alarm? I can't find anything for it to plug into.

b13bat, i am going to pop down lincoln sabaru as they are only 10 from me. Thank you very much for that, had no idea they were there. Have a chat with them. See if they can pick the scooby up and find out whats wrong with it. Least then I know whats what.

Thanks everyone Will update later.

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

No problem. I have no exeperience with them, i have only been told of them, friend of a friend. Let us know what they are/seem like.

Edit: I've just looked on google earth. It's on the side of the A158. It looks a bit rough (a far cry from thje web site), they always have breakers on the front. You must have seen it.


Not sure i'd leave mine with them.

Scooby Frog

well, went down to Lincoln Scooby earlier and am happy. Bat, yeah see what you mean about how it looks but chatting with the two mechanics there apperances aren't everything.
They seemed good guys and really knew their stuff. They diagnosed the issues with mine as bottom end bearing gone. With the associated crank and piston damage. Which is pretty much as i had heard from a few people. So not good but do now have a plan.

Use my current heads etc with a 2.5ltr block They will pick my car up, take the engine out and then bring me the car back, just keeping the engine. Going to add in forged pistons (cp i reckon??) at the same time with a fmic as stage one. That will get me up and running again then once i've saved up again it will be 6 speed gearbox with new clutch and flywheel. Then finally simtec ecu

Sound like a good plan??

Cheers guys.

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Thats exellent Frog. Judge a book by its cover and that.

Sounds like a top plan to me. I always say, look at it as an oppertunity not a disaster.

The only thing i can see is that you will suffer a bit of lag due to the fmic not being mapped in but if your going simtec, wtf! Others may be able to offer advise there)

Are they supplying the simtec and the mapping, or is that down to you and a mapper of your choice??

Any how, keep in touch, just coz your not driving don't mean you can't chat.

Scooby Frog

Thanks Bat,

Yeah i am still completly gutted, only had my scooby (my first one) a couple of months and was really loving it then boom its dead and thats that But now i know it needs a rebuild and replacment internals etc it seems silly not to make it worth while. At least i ccan reuse half my engine Will mean a good few months saving but the end result will be super. 2.5 ltr capable of some very nice power. Be great to get another wagon out on trackdays

Your point about the fmic is a good one, may have to reconsider the order of things.

They can supply and map the simtec but i will seek out advice nearer the time for a good dealer.

Trouble is, i keep thinking of over bits that will need doing such as fueling, fpr, headers? unequal/equal length headers??, turbo, suspension, brakes, gauges etc etc!! Arrrrggghhh! lol!!

Don't worry, i will be on here plenty, proberbly asking questions!!

Thanks, Frog.

mit

iTrader: (10)

Sorry to hear it was the worst scenario. Just a point, you won't want to run a 2.5 on 2.0 map/injectors/fueling etc. It will need mapping and a running in map or it will go bang. I've been there, did the 2.5 with standard everything else, but with fmic, decat etc. The plan was to run it in on standard kit, till i could afford the apexi pfc. It blew at 900 miles. Do it once, do it right, even if this means waiting longer till it's running again.
Just another thought, i understand you want to mod your car, but have you looked a similar cars for sale, to get an idea of what you could buy the same for? Might work out cheaper to buy another car?
Don't rush into what will be a very expensive bill, look at different engine builders, ones with a good rep, not just the first garage you've spoken too. You'll learn a lot about what people can offer. A proper built 2.5 will be expensive, well over £4K, and at least another £3k for the box/clutch.
Good luck!!