got froth in my radiator
#1
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got froth in my radiator
just a quick question had a little hole in my bottom radiator pipe this week and now i have gor froth in my headder tank. does that mean that the head gasket is going?
thanks will
thanks will
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when you say bubbling its white froth that the same? ill have alook at that when i go back out to the car.
If it is the head then how much we looking at to get a new one?
If it is the head then how much we looking at to get a new one?
Last edited by subaru will; 24 October 2010 at 05:10 PM.
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sometimes you can get froth from rad sealer or rad flush, have you done any of these since the leak, you obviously must have filled it at some point.
i would try flushing the system with a hosepipe, take out the stat and undo the bottom hose and fill with the top hose and flush till clean
and then try again and see if you still get froth
keep an eye on engine temp and look out for white smoke from exhaust - signs of hg failure
hg failure means engine out, heads skimmed and checked and put back together, not to bad a job but a pain cos of all the stuff you have to take off and the fact you have to remove the engine.not gonna be cheap mate - hgs and skimming around £100 - 120 but the labour is gonna be expensive probably looking at a grand
i would try flushing the system with a hosepipe, take out the stat and undo the bottom hose and fill with the top hose and flush till clean
and then try again and see if you still get froth
keep an eye on engine temp and look out for white smoke from exhaust - signs of hg failure
hg failure means engine out, heads skimmed and checked and put back together, not to bad a job but a pain cos of all the stuff you have to take off and the fact you have to remove the engine.not gonna be cheap mate - hgs and skimming around £100 - 120 but the labour is gonna be expensive probably looking at a grand
Last edited by stedee; 24 October 2010 at 06:18 PM.
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ok thanks for that mate ill give that a try in the morning its a bit to cold to be going out to the car now. there is no whit smoke so lets hope that its all good then..
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one side complete, in the middle of doing the other side
****e me i`ve saved over 6-700 bucks paying for some greasemonkey with high labour charges
#11
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but **** me its so easy i cant believe it
done other normal cars so not that scared lol, a few years ago might of been as spent several thousand pounds on impreza`s and wouldnt want to **** them up, but this time got this scoob really dirt cheap and yes headgasket gone maybe thats why someone got rid.
plus side is i got another car so aint got to rush this one to get it back on the road.
Last edited by stann01; 24 October 2010 at 10:54 PM.
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yep can be done but once youve took the inlet off and all the stuff you need to , its just as easy to lift engine out and probably save you time in the end and less likely to get something wrong like putting those pesky rocker covers back on without catching the seal somewhere.
i would have agreed with you mate but after having to remove an engine i see how easy it is.
to op remove the inlet plenum - there are alot of pipes and connectors, so mark them up
exhaust mani needs to come off
remove rocker covers, remove front plastics, better to take rad out, take off timing belt but better to move to tdc first so all your cam pulleys line up, then go back to the sides and take out the cams and holders then you can get to the head studs. after writing that yep i would defo take the engine out
4 gearbox bolts and one starter, 2 engine mount bolts and the clutch fork pivot thing and pull forward
thats it out and you can then work on it in comfort.oh the downpipe aswell
i would have agreed with you mate but after having to remove an engine i see how easy it is.
to op remove the inlet plenum - there are alot of pipes and connectors, so mark them up
exhaust mani needs to come off
remove rocker covers, remove front plastics, better to take rad out, take off timing belt but better to move to tdc first so all your cam pulleys line up, then go back to the sides and take out the cams and holders then you can get to the head studs. after writing that yep i would defo take the engine out
4 gearbox bolts and one starter, 2 engine mount bolts and the clutch fork pivot thing and pull forward
thats it out and you can then work on it in comfort.oh the downpipe aswell
Last edited by stedee; 25 October 2010 at 01:04 AM.
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been to the garage today and its the water pump that is going. Been quoted £300 all in for it and a new cam belt as well. thats for a full oil change as well
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stann01, I went through EJ257 headgaskets too often. Part of the issue may have been reusing the same heads or not checking them properly for surface finish/flatness, I just hope you can assess the block mating surfaces properly with the engine still in place and get the torque procedure right on the head bolts. OTOH my trouble could have been that the EJ257 was just a wobbly jelly of an engine and didn't like 400-500 BHP for more than 8-10000 miles between leaks.
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water pump - strange - they are meant to be reliable, how did they know it was the pump, no flow or something like that and btw if your pump has really gone your hg might be going aswell cos you get hotspots in the engine cos of no water flow
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heads fine, mating surfaces fine, aligned properly, torque sequence adhered to.
new water pump in too as old one had play in it and sounded like bearing on way out.
new water pump in too as old one had play in it and sounded like bearing on way out.
Last edited by stann01; 26 October 2010 at 04:09 PM.
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