Let me just explain what Im stuck on,
My 05 Impreza STI has some BC's fitted, to which it has been lowered by about 30mm, it has also been set up with a fast road setting, but.........

The rear cmaber cant be set any less than -1.75deg, really needs to be down to -1deg to finish the setting.
The reason it cant go no more is that Im told its reached the factory limit from the adjusters, and I need some aftermarkets ones to allow me more camber adjustment. Sounds fine I thought, but they are proving mega hard to find, my machanic has sourced some, but waiting for a price.

I thought Id found them myself, but they are just normal camber bolts that only give max of + or - 1.75deg, so its the same what I have already.

I'm told if I raise the rear up a bit, it will give some camber back, but dont want it going back to looking standard.

Question is then to all that have lowered there to around 30mm is.......
what rear camber set up do you have?
Did you need to fit new camber adjusters?

Thanks for any help forward

 

See my recent post #36 in the Suspension section:

https://www.scoobynet.com/852226-fit...y-depth-2.html

The system is Apex Gen2 which is "the same as" BC
The top hole on the rear strut/hub fixing is elongated to allow some camber adjustment - I assume your mechanic spotted this? It would appear in my case this still didn't give the required result on the left rear.
Raising the ride height by say 10mm, will reduce the camber, but only by a TINY amount

JohnD

 

i have bc's on my classic. i dont know what what rears were set to, afaik bc do a rear adjustable camber plate similar to the front.

 

Fit camber bolts to the top AND the bottom mounts...

dunx

 

He said its reached the limit to what the adjustment can give.
I called him today and questioned again the Camber Bolts I've seen, stating they give from between -1.75 & +1.75, so if he wants it set at -1 then these bolts are fine. but he did say he's seen then before stating that and they dont get near them settings.

He'll chase the company this week, if I not heard anymore them I'll get the bolts and see if they give the right setting. I'm thinking surely they will be fine, its false advertising if they dont right lol?

 

Come to a dead on on what the guy thought he could get. So I'll order some Camber Bolts and see if they can get me the -1deg rear.

Finding it hard to trace people that have lowered their car and run a similar set-up, 30mm isnt extreme atall, and im using a fast road set-up all things that are done when coilovers are fitted right??

 

My Bugeye is on Tein coilovers with a 30mm drop. I have whiteline camber bolts and no problem getting them setup. One bolt each side in the top hole is what I have.

 

I see, do you know what rear camber you are running?

 

Mine is about 60mm lower than std and not had any problems running the camber I need (also on BC but with camber adjustable top mounts)

Camber bolts should do it but personally I would stick with -1.75 rear camber

 

Got -1.5 rear camber on mine and love the way it handles. Also on BC Coilovers, dropped maybe 30-40mm.

Why do you only want 1 degree camber Darren ?

 

What would the handling difference be like then from between what I have on rear now at -1.75 to just -1.
What does more or less rear camber basically do?


Reason is the machanic said he's rather see -1 on the rear for fast road use.

The car is set up as:- 0 Toe F&R
-0.5 front camber
-1.75 rear camber (maybe down to -1)

I dont want killer tyre wear though, It's never going to go on track either.

 

I would always have more neg camber on the front than the rears...

 

Did the mechanic lower the car with the spring perch, or did they actually use the correct (i.e. thread the entire shock into the lower mount) way??

If they lowered the car like you do most suspension setups (on the spring perch) maybe this could cause the problem you have, as the BC's usually have no problems with not getting too little camber.

 

Definitely - that mechanic is talking out of his proverbial

 

i asked him today about this, but the BC's I have have no rear adjustment to give the camber, the fronts do though. But the rears have to be adjust through the factory links, hence there isn't enough, so brought some camber bolts.
Booked in for wed next week, having the rear extenders fitted, the bolts, raising the rear about 5-10mm, just to bring the wheel out from hiding under the arch a bit, raising should help get more camber anyways, but no much, bolts should do the rest.

 

Just to confirm - Raising the ride height will reduce the negative camber.
I did an approximate calculation of the difference increasing the strut length (raise ride height) 10mm would do to the camber angle using a nominal strut length of 50cm, using simple trigonometry and it came out at 0.03 deg. or 1.8 minutes! That's pretty miniscule!

JohnD

 

LOL oh yes thats pretty tiny.
Lets hope these camber bolts do what they say they do on the pack.

 

That may be better for fast road use but, quoting the handbook -

Front camber - 0deg. 25min.
Rear camber - 1deg. 30min.

Not that we take much notice of the hanbook (It doesn't even tell you to pre-fill the oil filter!) But it does show that the official word is - more neg. camber on the rear!

JohnD

 

Its completely wrong unless you like an understeering pig of a car.

Prodrive recommended fast road camber settings are as follows:
-1.4 front, -1.1 rear. On a 4 wd car like an impreza or a fwd drive the main enemy is always understeer, so it makes sense to have more neg camber on the front to get soem bite and comparatively less on the rear to make the rear end more lively on turn in to combat the inherent understeering nature

 

I don't disagree. I just quoted from the handbook.
When I fitted the Prodrive springs to my 03 STi the recommended geometry was - front camber -1deg 15min 0deg front and rear toe. No quote for the rear camber.

JohnD