Tommythecat

Hi
not a good start to my subaru ownership. The car is a 2000 on a w wrx uk within 7 days of ownership the bottom end is knocking when revved.
Question... cheapest and most effective way to get car back on the road
1 buy second hand engine, but iv'e been told engine has to be same year same code and not an import or it wont start and run.
2 have it rebuilt.... who would do it and would i have to sell a kidney on ebay to fund it?
3 just have someone replace the crank if thats possible?

appreciate any help or suggestions on the above or any recomendations if i need to go down new engine route
thanks
tommy

bluejohndeere

how many miles have you done since buying it ?? never mind fixing it i would be going getting my money back

Tommythecat

Hi
Thanks for reply, going back is not an option as purchased at general auction. So buyers beware etc!

Splitpin

Welcome, sorry to hear your experience has started like this.

The first thing to mention is probably the option you haven't considered. If the car's been purchased from a dealer (or similar), have you considered the option of rejecting it?

If that isn't an option, for whatever reason, then, to take your post in numerical order:

1. You've been told correctly. The only engines that will drop straight in and fire up straight away are from 1999 or 2000 model year Impreza Turbo 2000's (UK spec cars are called that, not "WRX"). Anything else will require further rebuilding work/expense - whether in terms of hardware under the bonnet, remapping the ECU, or both.

2. As far as rebuilds are concerned a lot depends on where you are. If you can get it to API Engines in Warwickshire, a top quality job will be done at a realistically good price. There are plenty of other good regional specialists, so searching around the board - and your regional forum would be well worthwhile to see both who's good and who's best avoided. Ideal Engines/SMR Engines, for one, you should avoid like the plague.

3. You can't simply "replace the crank" under these circumstances. If a bearing has failed, other parts - not least the shells, possibly oil pump, cooler, - will need replacing, and the engine will require careful examination to at least attempt to establish the process of failure in order to ensure that the rebuilt engine is going to run properly and last.

bluejohndeere

just do an engine swap try grade a subaru for an rengine

Mooburu

My thoughts are -

buy second hand engine? – I’ve never been a fan of this solution because usually when buying an engine, unless its in a car there is no way of knowing for definite the history of it, so you might save a few hundred quid as opposed to repairing what you got, only to find yourself with another dead engine in a few weeks.

have it rebuilt? – get prices of reputable companies only, I’m new here myself but I’m sure there will be lots of into and reviews.

Basically what I’m saying is you asked ‘cheapest and most effective way’ of getting your car back on the road, but just consider effective, as they say ‘buy cheap buy twice’

TheVoices

iTrader: (5)

Read my thread 'Help, killed the scoob' for a guide on how not to do it !

Tommythecat

Thank you for the advise, I think a replacement engine is the softest option that's if I can find one from the right year. I've has a quick look on bay and can't believe how much an engine will cost. Last engine I purchased was for a ford Sierra for £50 quid. Oh well time moves on I guess!

Tommythecat

Any suggestions for engine rebillers in the spalding, Lincolnshire area?

Tommythecat

Sorry was supposed to read engine rebuilders

chrisdicko

iTrader: (21)

Scooby Clinic is about 80 miles away
API are about 90 miles away

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Repairs to that at APi are as follows;

Bring the engine out of the car. We will fit a new crank and bearings, 1 x weight matched con rod, gaskets and seals after a through cleanup. £1000.00 + VAT

Bring the car; £1500.00 + VAT all of the above, but includes remove and replace and all liquids & consumables.

Call for clarification if you wish.

Car collection from Spalding £100.00 + VAT

David APi

Our new rolling road is rolling at last.


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www.apiengines.com
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01926 614333

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

But if he ends up in the same boat in ANOTHER week?

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Probably shooting myself in the foot here, If I needed to buy in an engine I'd use Grade A. One of the better sources.

David APi

IJE71

I wish I'd seen this a couple of months ago, just paid £2224 for a rebuild at Engine Tekniks, they did however put a big dent in my front wing free of charge. Running in oil coming out soon and was wondering if Mobil 1 Motorsport 15/50 is to thick for a my01?

bluejohndeere

if it did (doubt it would) grade a would sort him out

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

For some reason Subaru's don't seem to like Mobil one even at our preferred viscosity of 15/50.

It ought to be OK, but I have heard of cases where the oil has frothed badly in a Subaru. There might even be a Subaru bulletin about it, I seem to recall.

15W40 or 15W50 fully or semi in a known brand is our usual recommendation.

David APi