crank engine
#2
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Yes once all set up and back in matey... or better still take plugs out and do it, easier way though is to disconnect the coil pack.
edit: yeh for about 5 seconds should do it
edit: yeh for about 5 seconds should do it
#4
Disconnecting the coil pack may be "easy" but doing this while leaving the crank sensor connected will soak the cylinders in unburnt fuel Curtis. Similarly 5 seconds may be adequate, or it may well not be if the engine has been stripped and completely drained.
Sti360 - when you say you've done the head gaskets, did you, as above, drain the sump completely, or not? Under ideal circumstances, and especially if the engine has been left drained for a period of time, you would be better off removing the plugs (to remove compression, taking load off the bearings and allowing the pump to rotate quicker), disconnecting the crank pos sensor (to stop it injecting as well), and then loosening off the oil supply banjo bolt on the top of the turbo. Stick some old rag or tissue paper around it.
Then have someone turn it on the starter and keep an eye on that loose banjo bolt until you see oil first bubbling and then starting to flow consistently out of it. Stop turning it over at that point, tighten the banjo back up, mop up as much of the loose oil as you can (less smoke afterwards!) and then give it another few seconds on the starter before putting the plugs in and starting - making sure the oil pressure light has been off a good few seconds.
Also, if you have completely drained the engine out, you may be better off fitting a new, dry oil filter than a pre-filled one as would be normal practice.
Sti360 - when you say you've done the head gaskets, did you, as above, drain the sump completely, or not? Under ideal circumstances, and especially if the engine has been left drained for a period of time, you would be better off removing the plugs (to remove compression, taking load off the bearings and allowing the pump to rotate quicker), disconnecting the crank pos sensor (to stop it injecting as well), and then loosening off the oil supply banjo bolt on the top of the turbo. Stick some old rag or tissue paper around it.
Then have someone turn it on the starter and keep an eye on that loose banjo bolt until you see oil first bubbling and then starting to flow consistently out of it. Stop turning it over at that point, tighten the banjo back up, mop up as much of the loose oil as you can (less smoke afterwards!) and then give it another few seconds on the starter before putting the plugs in and starting - making sure the oil pressure light has been off a good few seconds.
Also, if you have completely drained the engine out, you may be better off fitting a new, dry oil filter than a pre-filled one as would be normal practice.
#5
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Whilst covering them in unburnt fuel isn't exactly a bad thing as its only starting up, your diescription of ideal circs is indeed a very ideal way of doing so
#6
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cool thanks for that ,
have not drained oil out yet as i did the gaskets with the engine still in car.
the last time i had the belt off to do the crank sprocket, the tappets made a bit of noise for a while,
tried to oil back up but it just runs off
thanks for your help
matt
have not drained oil out yet as i did the gaskets with the engine still in car.
the last time i had the belt off to do the crank sprocket, the tappets made a bit of noise for a while,
tried to oil back up but it just runs off
thanks for your help
matt
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