4950ken

iTrader: (49)

Hi

I am currently taking apart a jdm sti bugeye engine and am ready to remove the heads. I have looked at the bolts and these seem to have a twisted splined head, can anyone advise what tool I need to get to undo these and where it is available from please ?

Also, depending on what I find when I have removed them I may want to reuse the short motor in an earlier car. Am I able to do use heads from an earlier car with this version of block ? And will I be able to fit it in to a car with an early gearbox as in perhaps an early classic ? I understand the earlier ones have a different number of bolts between engine and box.

Finally, does a classic engine use the same head bolts as the bugeye or will I need a different socket ?

Many thanks

Ken

satpink

iTrader: (9)

you need a splined/bihex socket halfords sell them on their own, i think its either 12mm or 14mm you will need a 3/8" one as a 1/4" is too fat to fit inside & a breaker bar to undo them.


the short block will work with any heads

4950ken

iTrader: (49)

I tried a 14mm 12point socket and it seems to fit, is it this simple or is it a special one you are referring to ?

Will the block work with the early TY752 gearbox ?

Many thanks

Ken

f4la k

iTrader: (1)

yes block will work with that box.

BRAVEHEART_STI

iTrader: (20)

just use multi spline socket which is ur average socket but not bolt shaped inside , more like a tooth shape , u get the drift this is what many use

TheVoices

iTrader: (5)

Hi Ken !

Multi spline sockets are sometimes refered to as 'bi-hex' as well I think ?

I used a 3/8 drive 'deep' socket to loosen mine, the 1/2 drive socket would not reach some of the bolt heads.

Same bolt size on classic and newage.

Should be able to bolt on any EJ20 heads but using the appropriate inlet manifold ?

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

As above - you need a 12 point 14mm socket for the heads and a 12 point 12mm one for the crankcase bolts if you have to go that far.
Head bolts are the same on the EJ20 Turbo range - its only the SOHC which are different (longer).

Mick

4950ken

iTrader: (49)

Thanks everyone, I'll truck on with the cylinder head removal tomorrow.

Jon, that cam locking tool arrived and it's good, I just needed to swap the supplied piece of cambelt for a piece of subaru cambelt. 3 pulleys removed so far, no breakages the last one has a really tight bolt, think I'm going to need some extra leverage I have a very large adjustable spanner borrowed from a mate that should hold the last one.

Cheers

Ken

TheVoices

iTrader: (5)

Glad the cam locking tool has paid for itself !

Extra leverage is the key but I also found that a quick 'heave' on the bar rather than constant steady pressure seemed to free the stubborn ones !

4950ken

iTrader: (49)

I have been holding the cam sprocket and have the missus on the breaker bar with the hex key, worked for 3 but the last one either needs another bloke on it, more leverage or me splashing out on an engine stand to stop the engine moving about on the bench.

TheVoices

iTrader: (5)

You need someone to sit on the engine block to stop it moving !

I take it you have already removed the sump, if not this will help to stop the block sliding about on the bench.

You could also stand it on a piece of carpet underlay (the rubber backed stuff) to stop it sliding ?

I would be happy to help out if I wasn't so far away, let me know if you don't get it sorted, I can always come over if necessary.

4950ken

iTrader: (49)

Jon

That's a really kind offer, thanks.

I'm going to bite the bullet and buy an engine stand though, figure it will be worthwhile as I have 2 engines !

Cheers

Ken

TheVoices

iTrader: (5)

Could be worth it in the long run if you intend to spend some time working on them.

Offer still stands if you need me !

steve_ra_v-ltd

iTrader: (4)

you should have loosened the cam pulleys whilst the cam belt was still on, its a lot easier, machine mart sell a clarke electric powered buzz gun, thats what i used to loosen mine think they are £50.00 but well worth it.