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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 11:16 PM
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Default boot lock doesnt work

As above, boot lock will not open any more with the key but opens with the pull release inside the car.
MY06 UK Hawkeye
Both keys work fine for everything else, just not the boot

Any-1 any ideas?
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 02:41 AM
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You'll probably find the linkage rod connecting the lock to the release mechanism itself has disconnected. Look closely through the holes in the boot inner skin and you should be able to see the problem.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Splitpin
You'll probably find the linkage rod connecting the lock to the release mechanism itself has disconnected. Look closely through the holes in the boot inner skin and you should be able to see the problem.
thats the first thing i checked m8, took the steel plate off covering the locking mechanism but everything is still connected, any other ideas bud
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 03:32 PM
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Right, question: If you look at the back of the latch mechanism, while turning the key back and forth in the lock, do you see the linkage rod moving?
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Splitpin
Right, question: If you look at the back of the latch mechanism, while turning the key back and forth in the lock, do you see the linkage rod moving?
its moving about 2mm as thats as far as the key will turn in the lock m8

cheers
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 07:52 AM
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any more ideas on this 1 ........
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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If you take the lock out of the boot and dismantle it you will see the arm thats fixed to the end will have snapped the two locating tags off that turn the arm. basically a new lock needed
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rob84
If you take the lock out of the boot and dismantle it you will see the arm thats fixed to the end will have snapped the two locating tags off that turn the arm. basically a new lock needed
ah nonew lock with a second key for the boot or all locks changed and recoded
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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Just use the handle inside, change the lock and keep the key safe just incase the pull fails. For the sake of opening the boot I wouldn't bother changing all the locks and messing about with recoding.
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mike h
Just use the handle inside, change the lock and keep the key safe just incase the pull fails. For the sake of opening the boot I wouldn't bother changing all the locks and messing about with recoding.
was thinking the same thing m8.......cheers
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 01:40 AM
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Brockalightus - I would concur entirely with the suggestion to take the latch (and maybe lock) mechanisms out of the car in their entirety and examine them with a bit of light and space around them. The chances are what's broken will be easily and cheaply fixable - but if you don't look you won't find out.

The lock barrel itself has a metal lever on the end of it, with a little plastic retainer holding the rod on, so whatever the problem is here, it is most unlikely you'll need to change the boot lock.

I wouldn't be at all surprised to find one of the little plastic bush/retaining clips that holds the linkage rod in place has snapped, allowing the linkage to disengage from the mechanism, in which case you will probably be able to get a replacement, whether from a main dealer or a scrapper, for relative peanuts.

Take it out and have a look - you've nothing to lose!
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Splitpin
Brockalightus - I would concur entirely with the suggestion to take the latch (and maybe lock) mechanisms out of the car in their entirety and examine them with a bit of light and space around them. The chances are what's broken will be easily and cheaply fixable - but if you don't look you won't find out.

The lock barrel itself has a metal lever on the end of it, with a little plastic retainer holding the rod on, so whatever the problem is here, it is most unlikely you'll need to change the boot lock.

I wouldn't be at all surprised to find one of the little plastic bush/retaining clips that holds the linkage rod in place has snapped, allowing the linkage to disengage from the mechanism, in which case you will probably be able to get a replacement, whether from a main dealer or a scrapper, for relative peanuts.

Take it out and have a look - you've nothing to lose!
I will remove the lock when i get home to-day and hopefully as you say it could be an easy fix.
I will post up my findings later on. Thanks for your help
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 12:08 AM
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hi guys did anyone solve this problem im having exactly the same problem?
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 12:30 AM
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maybe he locked in the boot
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 12:49 AM
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i have had this twice now once on a 2005 wrx and again on my 2005 sti

never use the lock until the day i sold both and they didn`t work all it took was a lot of wd40/ grease and take your time working it and hey presto all working again.

think its just all the **** and salt that gets sprayed up the back gets in and drys it out.

worth a try before you start stripping stuff off.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 02:29 AM
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i agree with mike h 4 of 5 of my imprezas had exactly the same thing lol (The first one I thought the boot had been changed at some point), I never bothered as it could still be opened from inside the car, If the pull fails you can always fold down the back seats and repair the cable.
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 07:50 AM
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never got round to stripping the lock but did try soaking the lock with WD40, must give it another blast.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 11:44 AM
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I am now having the same issue.

Tools out tomorrow I think
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 06:41 PM
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How are people getting on with this? Is it a soak with wd40 or lock out and see what's broke?
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 06:52 PM
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My first job would be cable out and spray with Screwfix spray grease: it goes on like water, penetrates, then sets like normal grease, hang cable up and spray until it comes out of the lower end, leave to set, refit.
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 07:40 PM
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All the plastic holders are still in place, WD40 didnt do anything. So looks like its inside, what I can do god knows?
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:51 AM
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im having the opposite problem

my key works fine in the lock but my lever inside the car will not open
my boot

steve
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 12:34 PM
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Have you checked the little lever next to the boot lock on the boot lid? If it gets knocked it makes it so the boot can only be key-opened.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by stevemoir
im having the opposite problem

my key works fine in the lock but my lever inside the car will not open
my boot

steve
I have that same issue, but its not lever as alcazar mentioned.
It happened when I changed the boot, its annoying, but I spent to much time on it without a result.
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 09:25 PM
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I did one of these at work today,
Remove the boot lock from the car and stick in a jug of boiling water and leave for 10 minutes then work the key in and out of the lock to free off any debris.
Dry it off then apply a good coating of wd40 and again work the key in and out of the lock. you may at this point with a very fine flat blade screwdriver wish to work the little plates visible in the lock whilst spraying with wd40, then work the key in and out for a while and hey presto it will become free again
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DarrenSTI
All the plastic holders are still in place, WD40 didnt do anything. So looks like its inside, what I can do god knows?
i had this last year, believe it or not it is easily sorted. when you rang subaru for your "options", did you enquire on the price for a new boot lock and 2 seperate keys? IIRC its around just £15! miles cheaper than taking the mechanism to a locksmith to sort, and less headache overall. yes you will have a diffrent key for the boot but so what, it really is not that much of a hardship
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 10:31 AM
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That's a lot cheaper than a driver's doorlock, which is £42 with only one all-metal key
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by alcazar
That's a lot cheaper than a driver's doorlock, which is £42 with only one all-metal key
yep, honestly subaru stealer prices sometimes defy logic. a few years back i needed to replace a rear door and the plastic wheel arch trim.
brand new rear door=£245
plastic wheel arch trim=£110
but heres the best part.....1 sti door sticker £35
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rob84
I did one of these at work today,
Remove the boot lock from the car and stick in a jug of boiling water and leave for 10 minutes then work the key in and out of the lock to free off any debris.
Dry it off then apply a good coating of wd40 and again work the key in and out of the lock. you may at this point with a very fine flat blade screwdriver wish to work the little plates visible in the lock whilst spraying with wd40, then work the key in and out for a while and hey presto it will become free again
I could even get the lock off the boot. I took the large black metal bracket off, held with about 4 bolts, unclipped the rod, and that was it, nothing became free ot loose???

Did I miss anything out, or once you take them bolts off give the lock a bang and it will pop out?
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 05:41 PM
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Isn't it held in place like door locks, by a thin sprung piece of metal that runs in a groove in the rear of the lock, behind the panel?
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