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cutting out at junctions

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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:28 PM
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Default cutting out at junctions

hi there
i wonder if anyone would be so kind as to give me some advice.
i have a 95 wrx, td05h turbo, stainless system, front mount, induction kit, x6 ecu.
when approaching junctions as i depress the clutch, occasionally the engine will die.
does anyone know what this could be?
best regards
keith
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:40 PM
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
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Ok, few questions

1. Does this only do it when the car is cold?
2. Is your car mapped for all the above modifications?
3. Is the Check Engine light coming on at any time?

Tony
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:13 PM
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hi tony
1. it does it hot or cold
2. it is not mapped but i have been told it is a good combination and should run okay
3. yes the check light is on and it sometimes goes off if you accelerate
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:27 PM
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
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You need to have the car mapped, it is not a good combination (whoever told you that needs slapping very very hard ), that cel is on as its seeing something wrong, you can google scoobypedia for how to get the fault codes off the ecu, its also not a good idea to drive on boost with these modifications, it can result in a very expensive bill for an engine rebuild

Tony
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:35 PM
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how do you mean drive on boost tony?
it boosts to 1 bar and holds at that.
ill check the fault codes tonight.
could it be the idle valve at fault?
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:36 PM
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how do you mean drive on boost tony?
it boosts and holds at 1 bar.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:36 PM
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how do you mean drive on boost tony?
it boosts and holds at 1 bar.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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I had this problem, it turned out to be the MAF...
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:58 PM
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
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Originally Posted by keith.bauer
how do you mean drive on boost tony?
it boosts and holds at 1 bar.
You need to drive the car off boost, ie dont give it any beans, if its getting inconsistant readings due to all the modifications it probably is trying to rectify itself (badly) hence its running like a bag of spanners.
All those modifications are screwing it up, if it cannot give itself an accurate reading on airflow etc then it will have the fuelling all over the place, in which case it will cause detonation, which in turn blows holes in your pistons, in turn requires a full engine rebuild, cost on average is 3k.
Do not rag the car until you get it mapped, do see if there are any error codes in the ecu (scoobypedia and google how to read the ecu error codes), get the car seen to professionally (you may have one or more underlying issues there) and take it very very easy (not to drive at all is the best option).

Tony
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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thanks tony ill take your advice
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