budd

iTrader: (5)

Following on from my previous ‘low boost’ thread I now want to look resolving the problem,

Let me recap a little, I’ve bought a cheap ’99 UK turbo with the intention of racing it in the production class of the Subaru Cup, but first job was to get it roadworthy and put a few miles on it before race prep started, a shake down trip to the Isle of Man was booked, I fitted a new clutch gave it a bit of a service and it passed it’s MOT, it was taxed 1st April we were booked on the 2.15 ferry from Heysham to Douglas IOM on the same day!! No time for testing was just fill it up and off we went, so it’s done well to do the trip (which included some ‘spirited driving’ in the IOM) with no other issues, well I say no testing it had a little run out before it was taxed (on a private road of course) just to make sure nothing fell off, this revealed my ‘low boost’ issues, these were traced a broken boost solenoid, my last minute attempt to do a bodge repair on this failed so I fitted a bleed valve and set the boost at 10PSI for the trip (before everyone starts telling me the dangers of bleed valves I know and it was a temp measure just to give me some sort of boost control) .

We’re now back from our 10 day break in the Isle of Man, and as I said the car preformed very well considering it's lack of any testing and my previous 'low boost' issues, now I’m back I’d like to ditch the bleed valve and fit the 3 port item I have, so I need a little advice on how best to do that.
see pic of solenoid with all it's bit's and bob's


I know the 3 port solenoid is plumbed in and works in a different way to the std 2 port item but I understand it's possible to change it's configuration to allow it to replace the std one, how do I do that?
How does the boost control work? Does the ECU control it at a preset level?
I have no history for the car so it’s exact spec is a bit of a mystery, this is what I ‘know’ it as, full S/S exhaust, inc equal length headers and de-cat, VF 28 turbo, yellow injectors, 04 WRX TMIC, what I’m not sure of is the mapping, it’s ECU as a small sticker on it that reads ‘tek 2’,see pic

which I’m assuming indicates a ECUtek generic map, but I don’t know for sure, the plan is to get the engine properly set up and re-mapped as part of it’s race prep, this will reveal exactly what as been done to it and get it set p correctly, but in the mean time I’d want to run it on the road a little more and would like to get rid of the bleed valve.
I know it’s not the best solution and that really it should be fully re-mapped now but it’s all a matter of money (I haven’t got any LOL) seriously I‘ve I managed to buy the car and get it to where it is now on very little cash but the bulk of my budget is coming from the sale of my TVR which is still in the garage!!!, once this is sold and frees up some more funds I’ll be able to press on and make some progress but until then money is tight, so any insight in to getting a temp solution on boost control is more than welcome.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

top port with pipe coming off in your pic to the compressor cover nipple, middle to actuator and botom pipe bleeds back into inlet pipe. . (you remove the original T piece and restrictor pill in the pipe to compressor cover etc..)..

then electrically the pins will come out of the 3port and then push into the orignal plug or you can cut the plugs off and use new connectors.. black to black and colour to colour

Simon

0victory0

iTrader: (4)

Looking at mine running the standard td04 The pipe going to the compressor is joined into the same pipe as the actuator would I just have to t into these pipes as they all join up anyway for the 3port solenoid?
Cheers
craig

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

you need to remove the T piece and run direct to the turbo and actuator, hence 3ports not 2ports

budd

iTrader: (5)

OK I'll give that a try, what boost level should I expect to see? also as a ECUTEK mapper have you ever seen the little 'TEK2' sticker that's attached to my ECU before? and is there such a thing as a generic 'TEK2' map?

also where are you based re doing a custom map on mine?

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

years ago they used to do an exchange ecu with a tek 2 generic map on.. I expect that's what you have. I would hope for the changed turbo and stuff it has been mapped again as the usual tek 2 was for just the standard turbo etc.

as to boost level - it will depend on the map that is on the ecu and no way of knowing... really it needs mapping and really you should stick with your safe 10psi until you can afford to have it setup properly.. but in reality you won't lol..
hopefully around 1.35bar if mapped for that turbo and 1.1 to 1.2bar if it was mapped on the original turbo not the current one.. but really it at least needs checking

Simon

budd

iTrader: (5)

That's the problem I have, I'm not sure what was specified when it was supplied, so untill it's mapped it's never going to be right, I guess it's the price you pay for buying a car as dodgy as this one.

LOL Your quite right it's very difficult to resist the tempation to let it run at what ever the ECU will let it, but as I don't know the supporting mods that it was mapped with I have no way of knowing if this ECU set boost level is safe, which makes any tickering at home dangerous, also it looks like the Bosch lambda on my wide band is damaged so I'll need a new one of those before I can keep an eye on the AFR. I was hoping if I could monitor boost and AFR I'd be able to keep it safe before I get it re-mapped, but before I re-fit the bleed valve set at 10 PSI I'll try the 3 port solenoid , see below.

I've now fitted the 3 port solenoid and it's working very well, in fact it's working to well!!! as predicated by Splitpin I'm getting major over boost, up to around 20 PSI !!! I've got the solenoid connected up in 3 port mode which I think is causing the problem as the ECU is obviously mapped to suit a 2 port solenoid, before I refit the bleed valve I'd like to try it in 2 port mode, how do I configure it to run in 2 port mode? ie which port goes where? and what do I do with the spare third port?
If running it in 2 port mode doesn't improve things I'll be resisting further temptation to bugger about with it and sticking with the bleed valve set at 10 PSI until I can get it mapped.