Genuine Dumpvalve/Recirculation valve/Blanked off question
#1
Genuine Dumpvalve/Recirculation valve/Blanked off question
Hey guys,
An honest question to all those in the know about how these cars work. I currently have a HKS SSQV, otherwise known as a dumpvalve. I bought it because I like the noise - but this is not what I want to discuss
Now recently I've been thinking over in my mind how these different valves affect things. I've also recently read a magazine article which compared the 3 ways.
To me I can see how if you block off the dumpvalve, you leave the air in the intercooler/pipework, which would mean there's air available for when you next open the throttle after lifting off/changing gear etc. But you could potentially stall the turbo as it has no where to push the air? Thus slowing the spool, but which is compensated by the air in the pipework already ?? (Bare with me)
If you have a vent to atmosphere dumpvalve, then you lose all that air all together, but the turbo hasn't been stalled therefore can create boost quite quickly again? The negative effects of this are that the car still thinks there's air in the system and so therefore overfuels..right?
And if you have a recirc valve, then you get a mix of both? Just to mention that the magazine test showed the blanked off valve quickest in a 1/4 mile sprint, but I can't remember the other tests.
So what are peoples views on this? I'm leaning towards blanking off my dv.
Thanks for reading..
An honest question to all those in the know about how these cars work. I currently have a HKS SSQV, otherwise known as a dumpvalve. I bought it because I like the noise - but this is not what I want to discuss
Now recently I've been thinking over in my mind how these different valves affect things. I've also recently read a magazine article which compared the 3 ways.
To me I can see how if you block off the dumpvalve, you leave the air in the intercooler/pipework, which would mean there's air available for when you next open the throttle after lifting off/changing gear etc. But you could potentially stall the turbo as it has no where to push the air? Thus slowing the spool, but which is compensated by the air in the pipework already ?? (Bare with me)
If you have a vent to atmosphere dumpvalve, then you lose all that air all together, but the turbo hasn't been stalled therefore can create boost quite quickly again? The negative effects of this are that the car still thinks there's air in the system and so therefore overfuels..right?
And if you have a recirc valve, then you get a mix of both? Just to mention that the magazine test showed the blanked off valve quickest in a 1/4 mile sprint, but I can't remember the other tests.
So what are peoples views on this? I'm leaning towards blanking off my dv.
Thanks for reading..
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: here, there, everywhere
Posts: 3,111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ive tried all three on my car
can honestly say in real world driving it makes fck all difference
aslong as the d/v doesnt affect your idle or give any other issues - which does seem to be quite common,
then just do what you want - if you want it loud get a loud vta
think the general consensus tho, is the standard one works best
can honestly say in real world driving it makes fck all difference
aslong as the d/v doesnt affect your idle or give any other issues - which does seem to be quite common,
then just do what you want - if you want it loud get a loud vta
think the general consensus tho, is the standard one works best
#6
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: here, there, everywhere
Posts: 3,111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i dint real;ly do test mate, i was trying to aleviate an issue with judder on light throttle lift off.
so ended up trying all three.
was a fmic
my fav(for noise) was the dumpvalve delete tbh, but scared of eating mafs, ive just got a re-c forge on.
so ended up trying all three.
was a fmic
my fav(for noise) was the dumpvalve delete tbh, but scared of eating mafs, ive just got a re-c forge on.
#7
To me I can see how if you block off the dumpvalve, you leave the air in the intercooler/pipework, which would mean there's air available for when you next open the throttle after lifting off/changing gear etc. But you could potentially stall the turbo as it has no where to push the air? Thus slowing the spool, but which is compensated by the air in the pipework already ?? (Bare with me)
You can also get the same sort of fuelling errors from a DV delete as you do from running VTA, due to the fact that some pressurised air in a delete situation will try and escape backwards through the turbo and out through the inlet tract as the compressor slows down. The Subaru ECUs (and all the MAF designs bar the 99/00) are unable to tell the difference between air travelling the "right" way down the MAF tube, and air travelling the "wrong" way, so you can end up in a situation where the ECU measures the same air twice - once when it was inducted, and the second time when it went backwards out past the sensor.
This can cause transient overfuel and bogging down on reapplication of throttle - which of course negates the benefits of deleting the DV in the first place.
If you have a vent to atmosphere dumpvalve, then you lose all that air all together, but the turbo hasn't been stalled therefore can create boost quite quickly again?
The negative effects of this are that the car still thinks there's air in the system and so therefore overfuels..right?
And if you have a recirc valve, then you get a mix of both?
This removes the airflow measurement/overfuelling error because the ECU is able to keep track of the amount of air in the system, due to none of it being externally vented.
The other point with the standard Subaru valves is that they're correctly calibrated for the engine, which removes the possibility of opening pressure errors as outlined above.
So what are peoples views on this? I'm leaning towards blanking off my dv.
The common reason people ask about deletes on here is because they want their car to sound like an Impreza WRC, and while you do get a semblance of that noise, it's pretty pathetic in comparison simply due to the fact that the rallycars are running over 4 bar of boost and aggressive anti-lag.
If you want to try a delete, it's your car, but in practice the performance difference between that and the OE recirculating DV is so small and so confined to specific scenarios that the disadvantages can easily outweigh any benefit. The only time a delete really stands to benefit the car is in flat out acceleration with the quickest gearchanges you can manage - which is why the report you read about the 1/4 mile makes sense.
For a daily driver though, the potential downsides need some careful thought.
Last edited by Splitpin; 26 March 2010 at 04:30 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: west mids
Posts: 984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i too have been messing with this and have come up with my own middle ground i have a part blanked/flutter & part re-curc setup. This is done by fitting a blanking plate behind the ome re-curc valve (bolt on to intercooler type 02 sti) as a way of blanking off the d/v the clever bit is a 10mm hole allowing part pressure from the intercooler to re-curc via the d/v in the normal way...
#9
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (41)
Out of part necessity and part convenience I deleted the DV when having a FMIC. The DV pipe I had welded and tapped for the Simtek temp sensor. TD05 turbo V2 STi mapped mafless obviously. I like it performance wise, but then I tend to drive it hard on the close ratios.
#12
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West of Scotland
Posts: 785
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've an 05Sti, MD321T, no potential for recirc due to intake pipe having no intakes!
I have a forge vta and wondered about removing it and the consequences of such?
The reason I'm asking is I'm having issues with setting it up. It previously was on my car with the VF35 and worked fine, dumping as and when it should. Now the MD is on I have dump from light throttle(closing) up to about 0.4bar, above that I hear the WRC chirp and either no/can't hear dump, I believe this is compressor stall?
I have a forge vta and wondered about removing it and the consequences of such?
The reason I'm asking is I'm having issues with setting it up. It previously was on my car with the VF35 and worked fine, dumping as and when it should. Now the MD is on I have dump from light throttle(closing) up to about 0.4bar, above that I hear the WRC chirp and either no/can't hear dump, I believe this is compressor stall?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Brzoza
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
1
02 October 2015 05:26 PM