stevie_p

Hi guys n gels
I'm absolutely stuck i have just refitted my engine after rebuilding it but now have no spark at the plugs
its a my96 with the 4 seperate coil packs i removed 1 plug and and earthed it on the block turned the engine over but no spark i have got the 2 blocks plugged in near the battery and the one under the throttle body are all connected i have a cobra alarm on it and have had the battery disconnected but just dont know where to look now as i have run out of ideas the engine turns over fine and i have fuel comming through just no spark

Please help before i go crazy

Splitpin

Have you checked that the cam- and crank position sensors are connected (one under the alternator and the other behind the timing belt cover on the 2/4 cylinder head?

scooby-tc

iTrader: (2)

try connecting the crank sensor under the alternator

stevie_p

Yes both are connected i did have a small grey connector near the back of the altenator that i couldn't find a home for

scooby-tc

iTrader: (2)

the coil pack is plugged into the loom isnt it? the connector is under the inlet manifold,there is also a large loom connector near to the airbox/turbo area

stevie_p

yes the coil packs are plugged in. the large loom isnt connected as i have a blitz induction kit on
this is sending me grey

KickboxingCrazy

iTrader: (15)

this is your problem you have no crank sensor.

this is a grey connector under the alternator.

Splitpin

You might be wright, KbC, but, as John Lydon once said, you might be wrong. If Steve's confident he's got the crank sensor connected then it clearly can't be that.

Stevie, what does this plug look like? Can you post us a picture of it? Small grey connector around the back of the alternator could possibly be the power steering pressure switch, ECU coolant temp sensor or, as KbC says, the crank position sensor, which would explain the non-sparking neatly.

Might also be a good idea to tell us whereabouts you are so that someone might be able to recommend a good specialist. Highly possible that someone in the know will be able to get this sorted for you within a few minutes. Worth considering if you're stuck.

KickboxingCrazy

iTrader: (15)

coolent temp sensor is black or brown

stevie_p

Im in Nottingham
i have links to three pics 1st is connectorhttp://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSC00146.jpg
2nd is crankshaft sensor http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSC00147.jpg
3rd is camshaft sensor http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSC00148.jpg
hope this sheds some light on it

thanks in advance

Splitpin

That "orphan" plug connects to a wire sticking out the back of the power steering pump. It tells the ECU to increase idle speed a bit when you're working the steering hard. Shouldn't prevent it starting though.

You've certainly got the cam and crank sensors connected - and reading your first post again if you're getting fuel the ECU is obviously getting timing inputs. As such the problem appears confined to the ignition output side of the ECU.

Comment above re. taking the car to a specialist (or getting a specialist to your car!) very much still applies if this is getting on your nerves. If you're still up for some detectivework, first thing to do is put a multimeter on the ignition outputs from the ECU and check for signs of life. Work forward from there checking the loom for continuity through to the igniter, and from there to the coils.


Incidentally while this is not at all related to your issue, you do know about the missing bolt at the top of the oil pump?

stevie_p

wow sharp eyes i'd of missed that one thanks will get it fitted
is it possible that the imobiliser is stopping it and how would i find out ?

Splitpin

It's probably just as well your engine's not running at the moment. I think it's the other bolt but one of those two is open to the oilway on the inside.

Yes it's certainly possible. If the alarm installer has, for example, wired the immobiliser channels into one or more of the ignition signal wires then a failure in the alarm will stop it sparking.

How you'd find out is via checking the electrical continuity between the connectors running to the igniter in the engine bay and the other ends in the ECU plugs. You'll need a multimeter (and a long test cable) and a wiring diagram for your car - which you should be able to find by searching Slipstream_UK's posts.

Then as above, check continuity from igniter to coil connectors. If everything checks out, dodgy igniter's one possibility - but unlikely if it all worked before being taken apart.

stevie_p

thanks for that Splitpin but i think thats past my ability when it comes to electrics I SUCK lol i was hoping someone would say "oh youve missed &*^&%" but doesnt look like its gonna happem
can anyone recomed an expert to come out as im stumped im in nottingham near Ilkeston (but nottingham side ) lol

stevie_p

I have got Glen from Carnetix popping over in a little while so keep your fingers crossed for me lol

stevie_p

Well still no luck Glen had a quick look and it seems there is no feed going to the ignighter on the inner wing but didn't have the equipment to get any further down than that also advised me to check under inlet manifold to check i haven't missed an earth on the wiring loom. A big thanks to him for popping over in his own time at no charge enjoy the wine :-)