I have an Apexi ECU for my Type R (V3), I was planning on having it fitted and mapped at the start of the new year but..... I will have enough money for a simtek in Feb.

My question is: would you go MAF less (I think thats the right one) if you could, Are they really a big problem and should I take out the weak point?

Hope that makes sense.

 

I run a gems which is MAFless with no issues. It allows you to use a induction kit so you get the induction noise aswell, the airflow through a induction kit does upset the readings from the maf due to turbulence.

 

The older style pre MY99 MAF you have is more resiliant than the later classic ones. However running many induction kits (e.g HKS mushroom jobby) with a MAF based system often is the cause of their demise. So would stick with a good panel filter for the time being.

Yes I would definately go SimTek, definately lose the MAF and go to MAP based. Personaly I would just wait to Feb untill you get the SimTek and just trundle about for a month in a lower state of tune.

Hope this helps
Steve

 

since you have a v3 n power fc i would just go n buy a z32 AFM which is more reliable and can flow more air

 

Whats one of them then? Uprated sensor

 

Walton, I take it yours is the STi version of the v.3 Type R?

If so, you don't need a Z32 MAF, as the OEM orange label v.3/4 MAF you have is capable of similar airflow to the Z32. In any case, the Z32 is physically smaller than the STi 3/4 MAF, so would further 'complicate' fitting, etc.

As said, it's the MY99/00 style MAFs that are fragile. The MY93-98 cylindrical ones are much more robust. in any case, you can consantly monitor its voltage output using your PFC Commander, under "Monitor" > "Air-F"!

Seeing as you've already bought the PFC, and that your car comes with a high flow MAF anyway (good for around at least 440bhp), and is robust, I wouldn't necessarily jump in and spend out c.£800-1000 on a Simtek (the cheapest available MAP-based ECU for your MY). The Apexi PFC is a perfectly capable ECU... and has that groovy sensor monitoring/diagnostic gadget: the Commander .

Although that said, you can still get a decent chunk of the Simtek outlay back when flogging on the PFC and Commander, as the asking price for them has risen noticably. If this appeals, then yeah, get a Simtek - always better to go MAFless if you're willing/have the funds to. Plus it has the dual map facility... and will soon have an active anti-knock feature available (if not already?).

Decisions, decisions, eh?

 

I am not looking to run stupid power, just up it abit

I have a large RCM induction cone already, and this will need to stay because i want a FMIC.

So... the Apexi commander has a thing where I can keep an eye on the sensors?

Walton

 

Ahhh, if you're asking that question re the Commander, then I take it you don't have one, right? That's a bummer, as they're quite hard to get hold of 2nd hand and cost quite a bit otherwise. There's a vendor in Japan on ebay that sell 'em... but at £265 (+ lots for p&p)!

btw, power limit is irrelevent when it comes to most aftermarket ECUs - they all should be capable of managing around 500+bhp (if not more). It's the airflow and fuelling which obvously affect extra power for any given engine size/rev limit, and, so long as the various sensors' I/O signals are within the ECU's 'range', then the engine's power output per se is of no significance to the ECU itself.

 

I have the ECU + commander to be fitted, wanna make sure I am ready for it really. And that its the best way to go

 

Great! I'd keep 'em. As said, your MAF should be fine - I currently have my OEM original v.1 green label job (same style as yours but flows less air. It's 16 years old! and its voltage output is perfect still.

Yeah, on the Commander, when driving, you leave it in "Monitor" mode. This can display 2, 4, 8, or nearly all, of the available I/O sensors' values on the fly. Amongst the many available, one of them is the voltage of the MAF. This is the "Air-F" (or something like that) parameter.

 

Thanks for the help.

Fit fuel pump, de-cat front pipe and get ECU fitted goes to the top of the list then

 

Totally.

Fit a fresh panel air filter and, if you haven't done your plugs lately, add a set of new'uns - preferably NGK PFR7B ones. I'd also get a new fuel flter too.