My 2001 Bugeye WrX seems to pull well when boosting but pulls with a bit of a judder. It is standard.

Any ideas?

Dan

 

any induction or exhaust mods mate?

 

no mods.

Its got a k and N panel filter but did it before that.

 

Anybody?

 

Dunno . . crap fuel . ?

 

loose intercooler pipes

 

when was the last time you replaced your spark plugs!i had these symptoms until i changed mine!i also run a panel filter as i found the airbox made for a smoother running engine!

 

a broken stabiliser can cause this i think ( underneath the intercooler holding the gearbox ) also know as a dogbone they can get tears in them but i doubt its this but worth a check also warped discs ? probably not this either but you did explain it as a judder which to me indicates somethings loose rather than engine related

 

Thanks folks,

I've not had the car long so I'll do the plugs.

I'll also check the dog bone thing.

It is definately not the discs, I've just done them.

It is almost definately coming from engine. It pulls hard for half a second then less hard then hard again.

I've just replaced air and fuel filters to see if that helped but no joy.

What plugs do people recomend?

 

boost solenoid needs cleaning , check for guide on this forum somewhere its **** easy mate . basically sounds like its cloging as in openeing and not closing then eventualy closing rather than open close open close rapidly like it should , clean it mate , 9/10 times this sorts the problem u have just described in ur last post m8 dont do the green test connector check as mostly this shows that the solenoid just ticks away , it doesnt actually tell u the solenoids clogged .

also if this doesnt work then try adjusting the actuator arm a little tighter but only 1/2 a turn a a time , oine of these two should defo fix the problem

 

Thanks,

I'll try tomorrow.

 

Fixed now.

Thanks

 

nice one mate

 

so what was it ?

 

I`m also interested, what was the actual problem ?

 

Boost solenoiid needed a clean

 

Turns out it is still doing it. New plugs next.

Would this be a symptom if the injectors needed cleaning?

 

what are the leads like, are running a boost gauge?

 

its now only boosting sometimes for a brief second.

Am I right in saying things to check are:
plugs
leads
turbo actuator adjustment
What order shall I check them in?


What about injectors?

Cheers

 

tighten the ctuator ever so slightly , sounds to me that the actuator spring is weak so u might find u have to tighten it considerably before it will work but only do 1 turn at a time , are u sure u have a pill in the line ???

 

pill in the line?

 

yes theres a pill in the line what it does is restricts air pressure coming from the nipple on the turbo housing going to the actuator , in effect delaying the time when the actuator opens , its a brass pill with a 0.9mm hole through it , if it is not there then u will be opening the actuator to early all the time and running what they call actuator pressure which is 0.5 bar which is not much and it should feel like a boost loss , bassically u have a T shaped hose that goes from the compressor housing to a t piece , then to the actuator and the other part of the tee piece goes to the solenoid the brass pill should be in the middle of the pipe between the turbo housing and the tee piece ?

 

if u were boosting fine before and this suddenly happened then i doubt the above is ur problem though

 

i had this prolem on my old wrx done all of the above and more, ended up being my crank position sensor was stuck so caused this to happen ??????
only found out with process of elimination started on 10am sat mornin found it by 6pm sat night changed all plugs / coilpacks and checked everything

 

I had a look today. There seems to be a leak where I put my new down pipe on. I'll need a new gasket. Might this cause it.

The actuator seems to be as long as possible. Should I be trying to shoten it or lengthen it if the problem is here?

 

long ???? that is bad if its as long as it will go???

take the arm off and close the flap manually , adjust the rod so that u have to pull it just a little to get it to hook over the the flap arm and put the circlip back on this should be just about right , if its as long as it can go then more than likely you are bypassing the air away from the turbo in a way so your car cannot build boost , it should only open when it reaches a certain pressure hence why you have to have the arm shorter as it is closed when short and open when long

 

Thanks,

I'll have a shot tomorrow maybe.