Guys,

Rather than me writing down what problem I am getting how about for a change people write the problems they had when the MAF Sensor was at fault.

The reason I say that is everyone will have a different answer and it can sometimes go off the subject.


So please put down what your problem were and if replacing the MAF resolved the problem.


Rrgards
Steve

 

no

 

Prat

 

 

I once had the "engine running lean" fault because the MAF had failed, replaced it and all was well.

A few months later I had the same engine code but this time it was the front lambda sensor instead

Hope that helps

Andy

 

I was getting flat spots, or hesitation, followed by cutting out randomly after a few days. This is on a 98 uk turbo so fiddled with the black plugs until i got the fault codes: 23 & 32 (MAF and lambda).

Read on here that the lambda sensors are generally bulletproof, at least in comparison to the MAF anyway, and that a faulty MAF can often cause a lambda fault too.

Changed the MAF, reset the ECU, now all is well. No fault codes since.....

 

Cheers guys.

Did some more tests today. Re-fitted connections on battery and took her for a spin. Left the car to tick over on idle for 10mins. Switched off and turned back on. The normal hunting to start with.

Went for a 25 mile drive. In lower revs it's holding back but on the likes of the motorway and carridgeways pulls ok.

Got back home. Switched off. Left for 5 mins and switched back on.


One thing other than the higher rev range it runs fine is in the lower revs mostly below 3,500 rpm and in say 3rd or 4th the poppage and banging is very aggressive.

When I got home I tapped the loud pedal and took it up to 3,000 rpm and the pops and bangs are very loud.

Also noticed the tail pipe mixed with grey-ish and black sot.

It's got to be the MAF sensor hasn't it?

Steve

 

or cooling temp sensor-has your cel light *** on at all and does your car seem 2 b using more fuel?