Peter Mackintosh

Hi all,
Am looking for suggestions on what type of dump valve to buy for my 2006 Impreza WRX, i am really just wanting it for the noise but obviously dont want my engine to suffer for it. Interested to hear what kind everyone else uses and if your happy with it, also how easy it is to fit? thanks in advance.

milliemoo

i bought mine with baileys on it.few weeks later i took it off and put o/e back on.car ran sooo much better for it but if you did want one i bilieve hks ones are pretty good.pricey but good.if thats your bag lol

T5OLF

iTrader: (4)

If you don't want to engine to suffer then leave well alone, the standard works just fine. Spend your money elsewhere. Do not buy a dump valve...

Splitpin

I have one of these you can buy:



Absolutely top quality, calibrated to work perfectly with the engine and ECU, perfect fit. Yours for £699 plus postage. No, not cheap, but the best costs.

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

I've got one on my classic and TBH since I got it fitted there has been no problems and I like the sound. Nothing wrong with abit of noise from a turbo car . Mines a Blitz dump valve like this but they are available for your year too;

Indigo-GT: Online

(don't waste money on a cheap one though IMO) Dump valves are like Marmite ...you either love em' or hate em'

supermo

I've got a 97 sti import and think my standard valve is leaking? What is the best thing to do?? Is a recc valve ok or should I try and get a second hand standard frm somewhere??

Owen

brockalightus

iTrader: (2)

have a turbosmart supersonic on mine and i love it................some of you guys are just getting old ...........

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

Ain't that the aweful truth

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

And of course, wiser!

JohnD

Splitpin

No, some of us have always known shiny underbonnet tat when we see it.

If there's an "age" issue involved, it's primarily the cars that have aged, and as resale values have dropped, consequently opened them up to a younger, chavvier owner base.

Owen - why do you think the valve is leaking? Unfortunately those plastic ones do have a rep for it - you could take pot luck on a replacement from a breaker/reseller, or if you do fit an aftermarket valve, a recirculating one is a better bet for the proper function of the engine than venting.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Yep, and so are most of our cars, unlike the ones that have VTA dump valves fitted, and then go bang

Quite why people come on a site like this with the attitude of, "Well it worked on my RS Turbo, so it'll work on this", or, "I don't understand what a dumpvalve does, but I like the noise they make, so, hey-ho, I'll put a VTA one on regardless..........), I'll NEVER understand.

Think about it guys: IF THERE WERE ANYTHING TO BE GAINED BY FITTING A VTA DUMPVALVE, SUBARU, OR PRODRIVE WOULD DO IT. THEY DON'T.
END OF.

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

I knew that this would happen to this thread. Everyone's entitled to there own opinion and like I've already said you either love dump valves or you hate them but I personally have never heard or seen any evidence to back up any of your claims that VTA Dump valves have caused any Subaru engine to "go bang" or any other vehicle for that matter. Oil pump failure, oil starvation, improperly maintained, big-end failures etc etc all cause engines to "go bang" but I've never ever heard anyone say that the cause was a Dump valve! (I may be wrong but provide me with some evidence atleast if you can)
My classic has had a good quality VTA Blitz dump valve for some time with absolutely no problems. My friends type RA also has the same dump valve and he has had his for years & years with no problems whatsoever. And the statement about Subaru or Prodrive not fitting one is just daft IMO(theres a lot of things they could have done to Subarus to get gains but didn't). I'm not saying that a VTA dump valve gives you any gains over a re-circ dump valve at all other than the louder noise but surely that's still upto the individual to whether they want it or not.

brockalightus

iTrader: (2)

wasn`t wrong when i said some guys were just getting old...........think they have voiced there opinions eh.....and dump valves make engines go bang and underbonnet bling is bad......what next!!!!

RA Dunk

Lexus lights

brockalightus

iTrader: (2)

NO NO NO

RA Dunk

LoL, your smart enough to realise they are hideous things then

As for the dump valve thing, I would say its a no stick with your OE one

T5OLF

iTrader: (4)

brockalightus

iTrader: (2)

oh yes but i still like my engine bay clean

RA Dunk

fooking hell that's immac! 10/10 from me!

brockalightus

iTrader: (2)

1 more for ya

midnight

iTrader: (10)

A really really good point raised by gm ballistic, me and split pin had a really good discussion about dump/bov valves a couple of weeks ago and we both agreed that the standard recirculating valve is fine up to 350-400 bhp. But like everything in life its down to the individual. Personally i have never heard of a dump valve being responsible for an engine failure. I am sure there may be a few cases where a dump valve at its worst may have lead to premature breakdown of the turbo but i have no figures to support this statement.
When i first bought my car i fitted a baileys, only had it on the car for 2 weeks then it was on ebay, then bought a forge, had that on the car for 6 weeks, then ebay. Both of these on my car caused irratic idling and the car seemed to run better with the standard valve on . However, some people have had these valves fitted to there cars and have no problems whatsoever.
I now have a blitz bov fitted and up to now car is running perfect. However, if it should play up in the future then the standard valve will stay on for good.

Nice engine bay ,dont think mine looked that clean when it came out the factory.

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

Well said IMO midnight
.....and X3 for that gorgeous engine bay brockalightus.

s60tyn

I have a 2005 blobeye wrx and one of the first things i did was fit a bailey dump valve from Scoobyworld and it sounds great and have found no drop in performance.

Splitpin

"We" didn't agree on that point because that wasn't the subject of the thread in question. That "discussion" arose from you posting a load of bullsh*t about the way dumpvalves supposedly work, which subsequently got corrected, no more or less.

Don't put words in other people's mouths. The vacuum pipe gives dumped air somewhere to go, so it does. Fnarr.

It looks ace, but it looks like a number of the components have been polished. If so, I hope they (intercooler core apart) have been coated in a hard setting laquer or I dread to think how much work will be required to keep it looking that good through the winter we're about to go through. Salt and moisture + bare aluminium and steel = corrosion+++

T5OLF

iTrader: (4)

But did you get any gains? if not then you paid good money just to gain what is a **** sound, imo of course

brockalightus

iTrader: (2)

the engine bay is a working progress....and it improves every other wk....and it wont corrode as everything has been well coated for everyday use....school run,work and play

midnight

iTrader: (10)

I posted: my understanding of the difference between a bov and a dump valve(rightly or wrongly) ,if this is a public forum then i'am sorry for posting bullsh*t .As in my earlier post i have put down the experiences that i have had(no one else) using different valves on my subaru.
Total impreza Magazine issue no 6 page 91 the tech guys there, have there own version of how a dump valve works,and the difference between a bov and dump valve. If there wrong then i am pleased that you contributed to the discussion because i actually learnt something which i thought was correct and you proved to be the opposite.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

OK Einstein, explain why neither Subaru themselves, nor Prodrive, use them?


OK, go ahead, ignore those on here who have had one and removed it, and those who have tested out the VTA one and removed them, and those whose engines have gone...............oh I give up, you know better, 'cos I'm older than you, and you had one on your RS Turbo, or you heard from amte whose mate said............Just go ahead.

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

Neither Subaru, nor Prodrive use them because the only gain you get is the noise as far as I'm aware!!
Why would they want that in a race or rally car especially when they usually have waste gate "chatter" to listen too if they did want a good sound to listen too. I never said you would get any gains apart from the noise whereas you are stating that it will make your engine "go bang"- utter BS untill proven wrong IMO.
Why people like you have such an attitude for someone else expressing an opinion I will never know (I never said I was Einstein or all-knowing did I ).
And just for the record my friends Type RA has had his VTA dump valve for years (6 years) without problems and his car has had two engine re-builds (third one in progress@ API currently) and none of his engine failures had anything to do with his VTA dump valve. My WRX has also had a substantial re-build done by API after mine suffered big end failure so I have suffered engines going too unfortunately. Do you really think I would risk a £4K+ engine build with a £250 VTA dump valve if I thought they where in any way responsible for any engine failures!
AND.....you say your engine went....ok was it the VTA dump valve that caused this then?? if so who told you that/garage/company? what evidence was there to support this claim?

Eitherway don't be such a hater just because other people don't agree with what your saying or have a different opinion. I'm not a chav either, I'm just a normal 30 year old who loves his car and spends most of the time working on it by myself.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Errrrrrrrr, so Your mate has had engine failures while using a VTA valve, as have you, but the VTA valve isbn't to blame? And as far as you know, can't be?

OK, fair enough, whatever you want to do.

As regards mine, it's NEVER run a VTA valve and never will. What killed it was headgasket failure due, apparently, to corrosion of the mating surfaces: the heads got skimmed locally, and neither I, nor the engine rebuilder, knew that this would raise the compression ratio dangerously, leading to det and engine failure when running in 40 degree heat at high sustained revs. I think you'll find it's called heatsoak.

If I can ever afford a rebuild, it will have an FMIC, 2.5 forged conversion and 6-speed box.

Anyway, you and your mate keep running your VTA valves for their noise, they can't possibly damage an engine by fooling the MAF into overfuelling, thus causing bore wash, burnt exhaust valves, maybe burnt turbo blades etc etc...........