import sti???
#1
import sti???
Hi im in the middle of choosing a used subaru sti import. One iv seen has about 60,000 on the clock and from the first uk owner.
I dont know if there is a stick thread if so show me the way.
My questions are
What do i need to look out for when buying a used subaru?
like what are going to be the first things to ware?
Is there anything typical that goes wrong with them?
What questions can i or should i ask before viewing?
Thanks hope you guys can help
I dont know if there is a stick thread if so show me the way.
My questions are
What do i need to look out for when buying a used subaru?
like what are going to be the first things to ware?
Is there anything typical that goes wrong with them?
What questions can i or should i ask before viewing?
Thanks hope you guys can help
#2
Welcome - should be a thread on this somewhere but I can't remember where...
Basically make sure you do the normal used car checks - HPI, logbook, MOT, tax, VIN plates etc. etc. As for specifics for these cars, the test drive is a good indicator of what condition the car is in. When you go out for a test drive, see if they warm the car up before giving it the beans - gives you an idea of how its been driven, always best to warm these cars up before driving them hard. Ask what fuel they've been using (should be 99 RON i.e. Shell V Power, etc) as imports don't like normal UK fuel. Check if it has been modified, and if so has it been re-mapped (some need replacement ECU for this which is expensive) and who by. Check receipts for recent cam belt service, oil change etc. They like frequent oil changes - do a search on here for more detail on oil change procedure. Also worth noting - some of the import STI cars were prone to a bit of piston slap (slight knocking / ticking) when cold - this is actually normal as the forged pistons are fractionally smaller when cold and are the 'correct' size when warmed up a bit. Listen to the engine for knocking / other noises when its warmed up, check for smoke on hard acceleration, etc.
Thats probably enough to start with if you have details of the car in question i.e. specific model year etc that could help narrow it down a bit - also could help check it its genuine sti or wrx with sti parts
PS 60k miles is nothing to worry about if its been looked after - mine's well over that now
Basically make sure you do the normal used car checks - HPI, logbook, MOT, tax, VIN plates etc. etc. As for specifics for these cars, the test drive is a good indicator of what condition the car is in. When you go out for a test drive, see if they warm the car up before giving it the beans - gives you an idea of how its been driven, always best to warm these cars up before driving them hard. Ask what fuel they've been using (should be 99 RON i.e. Shell V Power, etc) as imports don't like normal UK fuel. Check if it has been modified, and if so has it been re-mapped (some need replacement ECU for this which is expensive) and who by. Check receipts for recent cam belt service, oil change etc. They like frequent oil changes - do a search on here for more detail on oil change procedure. Also worth noting - some of the import STI cars were prone to a bit of piston slap (slight knocking / ticking) when cold - this is actually normal as the forged pistons are fractionally smaller when cold and are the 'correct' size when warmed up a bit. Listen to the engine for knocking / other noises when its warmed up, check for smoke on hard acceleration, etc.
Thats probably enough to start with if you have details of the car in question i.e. specific model year etc that could help narrow it down a bit - also could help check it its genuine sti or wrx with sti parts
PS 60k miles is nothing to worry about if its been looked after - mine's well over that now
#3
Ok good stuff. my bad about the dumb questions, i just need to be educated.
It a 98 version 4, Import grade is 4 and seems very clean.
The 1 im looking at has wrx graphics in the centre of the boot lid?
its got a turbo timer, boost and temp gauges and exhaust, nothing major.
how can i tell the difference between a wrx with sti bits and a original sti?
iv also heard alot about warping clutches and gear box problems? how can i test this?
It a 98 version 4, Import grade is 4 and seems very clean.
The 1 im looking at has wrx graphics in the centre of the boot lid?
its got a turbo timer, boost and temp gauges and exhaust, nothing major.
how can i tell the difference between a wrx with sti bits and a original sti?
iv also heard alot about warping clutches and gear box problems? how can i test this?
#4
Scooby Newbie
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Leicester
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Best bet is to look up the vin at SUBARU IMPREZA TYPE RA - Identify models otherwise sti has logo on seats + steering wheel, different rear lights, red top intake, intercooler + more
#6
Ok good stuff. my bad about the dumb questions, i just need to be educated.
It a 98 version 4, Import grade is 4 and seems very clean.
The 1 im looking at has wrx graphics in the centre of the boot lid?
its got a turbo timer, boost and temp gauges and exhaust, nothing major.
how can i tell the difference between a wrx with sti bits and a original sti?
iv also heard alot about warping clutches and gear box problems? how can i test this?
It a 98 version 4, Import grade is 4 and seems very clean.
The 1 im looking at has wrx graphics in the centre of the boot lid?
its got a turbo timer, boost and temp gauges and exhaust, nothing major.
how can i tell the difference between a wrx with sti bits and a original sti?
iv also heard alot about warping clutches and gear box problems? how can i test this?
Engine bay pic above is a big help - STI V4 cars should have:
Digital odometer / white dials, rev counter in the centre with 7800rpm (or thereabouts) red line
Red inlet manifold as in pic above
Coil pack in centre of inlet manifold
4 pot front brakes
Front strut brace
rear lights should be red / clear (the only ones that look good on a classic!)
likely to have no front fog lights, only covers - however some models did have front fogs fitted as a factory option so cant really tell from that alone
Wouldn't worry too much about those listed mods; turbo timer not really required on these cars tbh, exhaust mods are common find out if its a full decat system.
As above, link / pics?
Cheers
Trending Topics
#9
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Guildford Surrey
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The headlights and corner lights have also been upgraded to crystal's.
It should have a intercooler water sprayer aswell.
Try and view it from cold, listen for knocks/ticks in the engine and whether it smokes at all at anytime.
I definitely does look like a genuine version 4 STI.
It should have a intercooler water sprayer aswell.
Try and view it from cold, listen for knocks/ticks in the engine and whether it smokes at all at anytime.
I definitely does look like a genuine version 4 STI.
#11
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Chepstow/Torbay.
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The headlights and corner lights have also been upgraded to crystal's.
It should have a intercooler water sprayer aswell.
Try and view it from cold, listen for knocks/ticks in the engine and whether it smokes at all at anytime.
I definitely does look like a genuine version 4 STI.
It should have a intercooler water sprayer aswell.
Try and view it from cold, listen for knocks/ticks in the engine and whether it smokes at all at anytime.
I definitely does look like a genuine version 4 STI.
not all classic sti's have i/c water spray, im pretty sure that the type r and type ra had these, but on the 4 dr sti's pretty sure it was a option.
#12
Also worth noting - some of the import STI cars were prone to a bit of piston slap (slight knocking / ticking) when cold - this is actually normal as the forged pistons are fractionally smaller when cold and are the 'correct' size when warmed up a bit. Listen to the engine for knocking / other noises when its warmed up, check for smoke on hard acceleration, etc.
and i dont have any 1 that knows subaru's. so i need to go in at it with as much info as i can from you guys. is there not a sticky thread on how to buy a used subaru, if not it would be cool if you guys could do that!
#16
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my sti doesnt have it however one i looked at getting before did and it wasnt a type r or ra and certainly not a p1. in fact it was a shed hence i didnt get it
get the vin number it will tell you if its an sti or not.
mine also has the customary ticking noise of the v3 onward sti's can only be heard just as the revs are picked up and goes of after a few minutes
get the vin number it will tell you if its an sti or not.
mine also has the customary ticking noise of the v3 onward sti's can only be heard just as the revs are picked up and goes of after a few minutes
#17
which is most important? above or below
Thing is the guy is coming down to me, so will be warm when he gets here
and i dont have any 1 that knows subaru's. so i need to go in at it with as much info as i can from you guys. is there not a sticky thread on how to buy a used subaru, if not it would be cool if you guys could do that!
Thing is the guy is coming down to me, so will be warm when he gets here
and i dont have any 1 that knows subaru's. so i need to go in at it with as much info as i can from you guys. is there not a sticky thread on how to buy a used subaru, if not it would be cool if you guys could do that!
Agree with you on a sticky for this tho, will investigate tomorrow...
#18
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Guildford Surrey
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes I did look at the wrong pic, my apologies to everone as to being incorrect, my v2 & v3 STI's and a mates V4 STI, (not type r or ra's) had I/C water spray, I must just have been lucky to have had these fitted.
#19
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Guildford Surrey
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Back on track.
Always view the car in daylight!
-If its wet, try drying it off, so you can see the bodywork properly.
-Look for different shades/colours of paint between body panels.
-Lift the boot mat and look for ripples in the boot floor(possible rear end damage)
-Look for paint overspray.
-Check whether the mileage on the MOT's all follow on from eachother.
-That the stamped chassis number on the bulk head above the brake master cylinder matches the one on the chassis plate on the left hand shock turret for imports, right hand shock turret on a uk model.
-The condition of the brake discs, there should not be a major lip on the outer edge or bad scoring on the face.
-Remove the oil filler cap, it should just have a brown residue on the underneath, if there is a white milky/creamy substance then there is a chance head gaskets are blown.
-That all the electrics work ie: elec mirrors, windscreen wipers...
-Try check the shocks to see if they are leaking.
-General trim and interior condition, are there burns or rips, are all the trim clips present.
-Clutch for shuddering/slipping, do the pull the hand brake up test.
-Engine for oil leaks and loud ticking/knocking noises.
-Get someone to rev it up and check for smoke from the exhaust, no smoke is good but blue or white smoke is a no no.
-Once the engine is hot listen for a bubbling sound or steaming at the water overflow bottle behind the left hand headlight, if it is bubbling or steaming this means the cooling system is over pressurising.
-The only really bad place for rust "I think" is the rear wheel arches and the bottom of the front wings where they meet the side skirts.
There is more but I'll leave it at that
Always view the car in daylight!
-If its wet, try drying it off, so you can see the bodywork properly.
-Look for different shades/colours of paint between body panels.
-Lift the boot mat and look for ripples in the boot floor(possible rear end damage)
-Look for paint overspray.
-Check whether the mileage on the MOT's all follow on from eachother.
-That the stamped chassis number on the bulk head above the brake master cylinder matches the one on the chassis plate on the left hand shock turret for imports, right hand shock turret on a uk model.
-The condition of the brake discs, there should not be a major lip on the outer edge or bad scoring on the face.
-Remove the oil filler cap, it should just have a brown residue on the underneath, if there is a white milky/creamy substance then there is a chance head gaskets are blown.
-That all the electrics work ie: elec mirrors, windscreen wipers...
-Try check the shocks to see if they are leaking.
-General trim and interior condition, are there burns or rips, are all the trim clips present.
-Clutch for shuddering/slipping, do the pull the hand brake up test.
-Engine for oil leaks and loud ticking/knocking noises.
-Get someone to rev it up and check for smoke from the exhaust, no smoke is good but blue or white smoke is a no no.
-Once the engine is hot listen for a bubbling sound or steaming at the water overflow bottle behind the left hand headlight, if it is bubbling or steaming this means the cooling system is over pressurising.
-The only really bad place for rust "I think" is the rear wheel arches and the bottom of the front wings where they meet the side skirts.
There is more but I'll leave it at that
#20
Dude tell me the more please.....................
thanks guys for that info so far, i found out that its an sti from this code "GC8E4ED", the just above info is just normal for car buying in general, like smoking exhaust etc. i wont be able to check the car cold, so what can i look/listen for when hot?
thanks guys for that info so far, i found out that its an sti from this code "GC8E4ED", the just above info is just normal for car buying in general, like smoking exhaust etc. i wont be able to check the car cold, so what can i look/listen for when hot?
#21
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Posts: 25,565
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Dude tell me the more please.....................
thanks guys for that info so far, i found out that its an sti from this code "GC8E4ED", the just above info is just normal for car buying in general, like smoking exhaust etc. i wont be able to check the car cold, so what can i look/listen for when hot?
thanks guys for that info so far, i found out that its an sti from this code "GC8E4ED", the just above info is just normal for car buying in general, like smoking exhaust etc. i wont be able to check the car cold, so what can i look/listen for when hot?
As for the i/c water spray on classics, the car(s) you normally find them fitted to is the STI type R and RA models, this is because they have no ABS, as if you have ABS you cant fit the I/C spray reservoir in there.
Looking at a car warm isnt really an option either, it hides far too many things especially cold start up knocking which can go away when warm (and piston slap), so if its possible to go around and see the car when its cold, then do so, otherwise an inspection would be appropriate (plus these cars need the highest octane fuel available to them, 97+ or even better shell v power, if they have put unleaded in then walk away).
Tony
#22
Sorry for the repeat of questions, but im confused. piston slap and knocking on cold start up is it normal, something to be careful about.
what could this indicate?^
Also worth noting - some of the import STI cars were prone to a bit of piston slap (slight knocking / ticking) when cold - this is actually normal as the forged pistons are fractionally smaller when cold and are the 'correct' size when warmed up a bit. Listen to the engine for knocking / other noises when its warmed up, check for smoke on hard acceleration, etc.