running in engine????
25 October 2009, 02:35 PM
#1
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running in engine????
just had new crank and shells,pistons etc etc
just want to know.....
how other people ran in there cars...
the do's and the dont's
i know no flooring it and no racing!
can you give me some hints and tips
cheers chris
just want to know.....
how other people ran in there cars...
the do's and the dont's
i know no flooring it and no racing!
can you give me some hints and tips
cheers chris
25 October 2009, 03:39 PM
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no got a few uprated bits..
acl race bearings,newer sti? crank,sti7 con rods and special pistons..
as its going in a v4,anything is a up-grade from the standard parts..
acl race bearings,newer sti? crank,sti7 con rods and special pistons..
as its going in a v4,anything is a up-grade from the standard parts..
Last edited by gc8-r; 25 October 2009 at 03:50 PM. Reason: forgot info
25 October 2009, 04:38 PM
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all bits are sraight swap mate.
as did'nt go for oversized pistons....yet!!!!!!
just need to have block checked by someone to check the bores are ok..
thats the bit that takes the longest time...
as did'nt go for oversized pistons....yet!!!!!!
just need to have block checked by someone to check the bores are ok..
thats the bit that takes the longest time...
25 October 2009, 04:47 PM
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Use a semi synth oil (10w40 
) and keep the rev's below 4k rpm for the first 1k miles, change oil and gradually over the course of the next 500 miles increase the revs, presto, should be all nicely run in then
Tony
) and keep the rev's below 4k rpm for the first 1k miles, change oil and gradually over the course of the next 500 miles increase the revs, presto, should be all nicely run in then Tony
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25 October 2009, 07:09 PM
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Three runs on a dyno and she should be run in! Read this Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
This is going to open a can of worms!!!
This is going to open a can of worms!!!
25 October 2009, 07:17 PM
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sonic93...
i,m running standard bhp so for a v-4 type-r it around 280bhp..approx
was running 310,so feel the diffrence...
and fbslim will have a good look at that later,just cant stop smiling...
its so good to hear my car burble..
used to sound like a civic(with was'nt bad but now sounds like a scooby... )
i,m running standard bhp so for a v-4 type-r it around 280bhp..approx
was running 310,so feel the diffrence...
and fbslim will have a good look at that later,just cant stop smiling...
its so good to hear my car burble..
used to sound like a civic(with was'nt bad but now sounds like a scooby...
)
25 October 2009, 07:24 PM
#12
Use a good mineral oil for running in defo not semi synth as you want it to actually create a small bit of wear which the semi synth will prevent. Castrol 10w 40 is good for this.
Steady away no more than 4K RPM (varying the revs), change oil and filter @ 500 miles. more Castrol for another 500 miles and 5500rpm again varying revs up and down the gearbox. Finally after 1000 miles drop the oil for fully synth and full remap time (if you have mods that warrant a remap). Have done this on every build I have done and has resulted in very little oil useage.
Steady away no more than 4K RPM (varying the revs), change oil and filter @ 500 miles. more Castrol for another 500 miles and 5500rpm again varying revs up and down the gearbox. Finally after 1000 miles drop the oil for fully synth and full remap time (if you have mods that warrant a remap). Have done this on every build I have done and has resulted in very little oil useage.
25 October 2009, 07:51 PM
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cheers dazdavies...
some good info there thanks..
just cant wait to be able to tune car then give it some stick again....
but no more 1/4 mile racing,only track days from now on...
chris
p.s still got all parts that were removed from it when tuned,so they will be going back on,PLUS MORE.....
some good info there thanks..
just cant wait to be able to tune car then give it some stick again....
but no more 1/4 mile racing,only track days from now on...
chris
p.s still got all parts that were removed from it when tuned,so they will be going back on,PLUS MORE.....
25 October 2009, 08:28 PM
#14
Use a good mineral oil for running in defo not semi synth as you want it to actually create a small bit of wear which the semi synth will prevent. Castrol 10w 40 is good for this.
Steady away no more than 4K RPM (varying the revs), change oil and filter @ 500 miles. more Castrol for another 500 miles and 5500rpm again varying revs up and down the gearbox. Finally after 1000 miles drop the oil for fully synth and full remap time (if you have mods that warrant a remap). Have done this on every build I have done and has resulted in very little oil useage.
Steady away no more than 4K RPM (varying the revs), change oil and filter @ 500 miles. more Castrol for another 500 miles and 5500rpm again varying revs up and down the gearbox. Finally after 1000 miles drop the oil for fully synth and full remap time (if you have mods that warrant a remap). Have done this on every build I have done and has resulted in very little oil useage.
Dont be afraid to use some moderate boost too. Pistons rings seal to the cylinder walls by the pressure created during the combustion process. If the cylinder pressures are kept very very low then the rings will not be cut in by the honing on the cylinder walls. This ends up polishing the rings and a poor seal will result.
This will result in poor ring sealing, lots of blowby and increased oil consumption.
If your engine has been built with the correct tolerances, an engine can be fully run in in less than 100 miles.
25 October 2009, 08:59 PM
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was built by a good name...
not saying who... thats a secret...but a VERY BIG NAME in the scoob world.
thanks for the advice..
just cant wait to give it some stick again..
not saying who... thats a secret...but a VERY BIG NAME in the scoob world.
thanks for the advice..
just cant wait to give it some stick again..
25 October 2009, 10:21 PM
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There are a number of comments on here about engine builds going wrong, wit names provided. So if there are good comments let's name them and applaude them.
25 October 2009, 10:21 PM
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Mine did 20 minutes on the road around town. Then changed the oil, drove it to Oulton Park the next morning and did Time Attack! Helps if you have an oil sponsor when running in!
25 October 2009, 10:25 PM
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would like to say but dont think people will like the price i paid...
it was better than anyone else..
the next stop after its run in (might sell it)is to make the first classic sleeper
it was better than anyone else..
the next stop after its run in (might sell it)is to make the first classic sleeper
25 October 2009, 10:58 PM
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frayz and daz ..have you any pics as i dont want to copy cars but would like some insperation...
its sleeper or bust,,,maybe a road going time attack style classic???
its sleeper or bust,,,maybe a road going time attack style classic???
25 October 2009, 11:03 PM
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sonic93,if its running dont re-build it as thats money you can spend on other things,turbo,ecu,inject,fpr,fmicfull exhaust and headers(i have some for sale. )
should see you well on your way,dont forget the re-map
)should see you well on your way,dont forget the re-map
25 October 2009, 11:06 PM
#25
Here mate, this should be all the inspiration you should need.
Exquisitly built with stunning attention to detail. Add about £60ks worth of RCMs catalogue and you'll be halfway there
https://www.scoobynet.com/members-ga...isin-enit.html
Exquisitly built with stunning attention to detail. Add about £60ks worth of RCMs catalogue and you'll be halfway there
https://www.scoobynet.com/members-ga...isin-enit.html
25 October 2009, 11:07 PM
#26
26 October 2009, 09:06 AM
#27
Mine did a warm up from idle, then 1bar around the block for 5 mins, then 1.5 bar and upwards
Changed the oil/filter and drove to Silverstone and straight on track for time attack - had done 45 miles by that point.
Engines need load to bed in else it will use more oil and not bed the rings in properly.
but ... I would follow the advice of the guy/s that built the engine as they will be the ones repairing it if goes pear shaped.
26 October 2009, 06:58 PM
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ya headers are for sale..
i put my car on a r/road first to see what bhp i was running....
then you can think about mod's..
with the right bits you can get the bhp you want..
find out how much you have then work up.
i put my car on a r/road first to see what bhp i was running....
then you can think about mod's..
with the right bits you can get the bhp you want..
find out how much you have then work up.
26 October 2009, 08:04 PM
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Another thumb for Daz , I was instructed as follows:
- First 500 miles no right foot action, Millers 10/40 CRO Competiton running-in oil (Mineral oil, about £15 for 5 litres)
- 500 miles, drop oil and new filter (Millers 10/40 CRO again), still steady away.
- 1000 miles, drop oil for Fully syn (Motul 15/50 fully syn), start to push car (currently on a running in map limited to 1 bar).
Going to drop the oil on mine again just before mapping as i didn't drain the oil cooler and lines so theres still about a litre of mineral oil in there. Should have completed about 1400 miles prior to final map.
I've always been told never to use semi/fully syn for running in (not sure why but cost would be one reason).
, I was instructed as follows:- First 500 miles no right foot action, Millers 10/40 CRO Competiton running-in oil (Mineral oil, about £15 for 5 litres)
- 500 miles, drop oil and new filter (Millers 10/40 CRO again), still steady away.
- 1000 miles, drop oil for Fully syn (Motul 15/50 fully syn), start to push car (currently on a running in map limited to 1 bar).
Going to drop the oil on mine again just before mapping as i didn't drain the oil cooler and lines so theres still about a litre of mineral oil in there. Should have completed about 1400 miles prior to final map.
I've always been told never to use semi/fully syn for running in (not sure why but cost would be one reason).