shamone

iTrader: (1)

Have a bit of an issue and I could do with some advice / suggestions…….

My ‘98 UK turbo wagon has started cutting out on me, in a few different scenarios. I’ve only owned it for just over a month and I always make sure I give it time to warm up before I drive, and leave it idling on the turbo timer to cool down if I’ve been driving remotely hard (I usually just make sure the last 5/10 minutes of my journey are done at less than 3000rpm otherwise I’ll put it on the timer).

At first, it started to cut out when I was idling - just sitting at traffic lights or when rolling to a stop as I dip the clutch – not every time, but maybe once every other time I took it out for about half an hour. There seemed to be no pattern as to when it occurred, early in the journey or later. It always started up again first time no problem and seemed to be running ok otherwise so I thought I’d leave it and see if it developed.

Now it has got a bit worse. It’ll do I pretty much every time I go out at some point (again no pattern as to when) but as well as when I’m idling, it has started to go whilst I’ve been on the move. Say if I’ve been cruising along the motorway at 65/70 in 5th gear then I drop it into 4th and put my foot down, there’s sometimes a big hesitation and the car holds up as if I’ve dabbed the brake, then it picks up and accelerates as it should. Once or twice when this has happened, it doesn’t pick up, and the revs start to fall away. If I drop the clutch and give it some revs then let the clutch out again it will either then pick up or stall (about 50/50) but again it will start first time again when I turn the key (very fortunate when I was still rolling in the outside lane of the M60 in rush hour).

I can have the same thing happen when I’m driving harder, but it’s always just after a gear change that it does it. This morning it also happened while I was cruising, steady 65mph in 5th, and just started to die. I’ve also noticed in the last couple of days that when I am sat idling, then the rev counter can bounce a little between 500-900 rpm, but if I give it a few revs it usually settles again at 8-900.

This started about a week ago, but has got worse of the last couple of days as described. I had a similar hesitation/stalling problem that happened with my classic mini. That turned out to be the spark plugs, so I’ve ordered a new set of those as it’s a cheap and easy fix that I can do myself (although I haven’t pulled out the plugs that are in to check them). Was just hoping that someone might be able to suggest anything else it could be, what I should be checking for, or even advise me whether I should still be driving it or not….. really I need it for getting about as public transport is the work of satan, but if I could be doing damage by continued use then I’m prepared to get the train!!

Any help would be much appreciated…………

shamone

iTrader: (1)

Just realised how much i wrote..... sorry for the essay, just wanted to give you as much info as possible!!

clark822

Have a look to make sure your vaccume lines are ok not split or the like and check your hose clips on the intake mine kept stuttering and cutting out turned out had an air leak from a broken clip you can also check your maf there was a post not that long back

mirrorman

iTrader: (2)

as mentioned check all vacume pipes.
Are you running a vta dump valve? if you are try the standard one instead.

DamEscort

Fuel pump or idle controle valve?

classic 95wrx

I've a simular fault on my 94wrx, it is now looking like the neatral position switch on the gearbox,this switch tells ur ecu if you r in gear or not,apparently there is a different map when idling which is on a loop until you change into gear,if the switch screws up it can cause probs with running, is ur fault light on?

shamone

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the suggestions, they'll give me my next steps if the plugs don't resolve it.

I don't have any fault lights at all... and i just have the standard dump valve.

Expecting the plugs to arrive tomorrow, so i'll give all the hoses a check when i fit them.

clark822 - i searched for the maf thread and found two, but they didn't really help much..... so i hope it's not the maf, as there are about 17 different types from what i've read!!

Will let you know how i get on

shamone

iTrader: (1)

I've changed the plugs and reset the ecu, and still have the same problem (although strangely it doesn't seem to be happening as often). I also found out how to do the self-diagnostics and got two fault codes from the flashing engine light: 23 (maf) & 32 (lambda).

After more reading up i've decided that the lambda sensor i probably don't need to worry about, as it's more than likely caused by the MAF error - but that leaves me with having to replace the MAF.

This is an easy enough task in itself, but just wanted to check which MAF to get. The one currently fitted is a purple label F code, but as my car has been slightly modded, should i be using a standard MAF or a different one - to allow for me having an uprated exhaust and an STI panel filter? If the setup / combination is the problem rather than the sensor itself, then surely replacing the MAF with another the same will potentially just give me the same issues i have now....

Is it a case of fit it and see, or is there anything else i can do first to check before i buy?

burbling1

iTrader: (1)

I would get the standard MAF for your car unless its been mapped for a different one which I doubt. If I still carrys on I would suspect you have an electric fault ie immobiliser which is turning your fuel pump off or the pump itself is faulty which is another long shot as they normally fail when trying to start.

shamone

iTrader: (1)

Generally doesn't cut out in the first ten minutes of running - usually if i've been on the motorway for a while, it'll cut out within a few minutes of me coming off, then maybe again within 30secs, then ok again for the rest of my journey. It seems to be doing it a bit less over the last few days, but it doesn't seem to make a difference if i've been driving it harder or keeping the revs down.

Don't think i've stated before either, enginewise the car is competely standard apart from a ninja 2 backbox and an sti panel filter. The old plugs when i changed them were all the correct colour (sandy brownish) but i replaced them with the new ones anyway since i'd pulled them out...... One other thing, i do get a whiff of petrol every now and then (inc startup), although i have checked for leaks and can't find any. I also gave all my hoses a check over for splits too

Have just received delivery of a new purple MAF which i intend fitting thursday. Just wanted to check if there was anything i should do before/straight after as part of the replacement process. Was thinking that i should reset the ECU again, and remove the fault codes so i had a clean slate. Anything else i should be looking at?

Thanks in advance

shamone

iTrader: (1)

bttt!

WRX-SHEFFIELD

Got the exact same prob on my 98 terzo apart from check engine light comes on brifely then goes out, codes in ecu were 23:mass airflow circuit and 21: coolant temp sensor.....changed temp sensor but still doin it so looks like the maf next