Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

I really am fed up with this car now....

Yesterday it dies on me. Battery was flat. A mate jumped me...200 yrds it dies again. Eventually got it home. Got the battery tested and its goosed. Stuck a brand new battery on it, put a multimeter on the alternator and that busted too. Only running 12.01 Volts. Makes sense as its killed the battery. So - get a second hand alternator - test that to make sure. Only runs 11.7 volts

Is it pure coincedence that both alternators a knackered or could it be something else?? beginning to wonder if theres something that hasn't broke on me since ive had this thing. The MRS is steaming and can't even bare to hear me talking about the car..

HELP ME PLEASE!!! (before I set fire to it)

Tucker

just123

iTrader: (1)

remember and switch lights on when checking alternator output as it just gives a trickle charge when lights are off

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

Okay thanks mate. My mate tested his transit to show what it should be punching out and his was 13.8 i think, with no lights on.

What sort of Volltage should I be looking for with the lights on then?

Thanks for the help

carl 00

Make sure that all the cables and wire's are ok if your alernator has not got the exite wire on it won't exite make sure all the earths are good to . Generaly it will charge at about 13.5 ish with no load i.e lights on. Most stuff does

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

checked the cables and they are fine. Earth is good. There is continity as in the system which suggests there are no breaks anywhere...

I thought about 13.5 would be about right too

STI_Baly

iTrader: (23)

I can 2nd that voltage output as right....

Brett_555_Sti

iTrader: (18)

Does the battery/charge warning light on the dash come on before starting the engine?

If it does, does it go out after starting the engine?

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

Waiting on new clocks to arrive so they aren't in at the moment so dont know!!

Brett_555_Sti

iTrader: (18)

You need to check that first, let me know...

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

hopefully will have them tomorrow. Will let you know, thanks

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

o.k,so at idle its crap at chargin,what about when revs are increased to 3-5000 rpm,any change in output on volt meter ?

Brett_555_Sti

iTrader: (18)

The alternator will be at max charge and the voltage regulator would be limiting further charge around 3k RPM

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

but the reading would be higher at 3k than at 900rpm so will show if the alternator is putting any charge out when under rev load as this is the 2nd one fitted

mike h

iTrader: (10)

Has it only happened since you took your clocks out?
I remember taking the clocks out of my XR2 once and it went flat and wasn't charging, was because the battery light wasn't connected.

Julio Jordio

Why has someone asked about the check engine light and battery light being on at ignition, then going when starting? Mine does this you see and i always wondered why but assumed it was nothing?

I know I shouldnt make assumptions...

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

I presume it does it to show that the light still works?

Anyway - the alternator (the original One) was goosed. I took it to an alternator specialist who ran it over a meter while I waited. Said it was knackered so he would look at it, Turns out it needs a complete rebuild and comes with a year warranty once done and you get it back next day. Local factors wanted £289+vat for a new one

So it does seem that I am extremely unlucky and bought a second hand duff job. TYPICAL!

Least the car will be back working tomorrow as Ive got all evening to play with my clocks that arrived today!

Thanks for all the help guys - fingers crossed the car will be nice to me now.

Tucker

Brett_555_Sti

iTrader: (18)

The problem has been remedied but in response to the following questions:


I will word my statement more clearly, Yes you are correct, it will charge more at higher RPM, but I meant to say that there is no need to rev it to the limit, as it reaches full charge by 3k RPM.

I asked if the battery light was coming on because both altenators had the same problem, but both happened to be duff.

An altenator needs power to make power, unlike a dynamo/generator. The power that it needs is supplied from the ignition switch, through the battery light on the instrument cluster, if the bulb is not on/working before you start the engine, the altenator is not getting power annd therefore it will not charge(amongst other things).

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

indeed,i didnt mean rev it to 7k !!!

Brett_555_Sti

iTrader: (18)

The horrible thought is that some people do, anyway thats that cleared up

Pavlo

The real problem is that the clocks are out, the battery light on the dash forms a crucial part of the alternators charging system, if it's not present the alternator WILL NOT CHARGE.

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

Right. But the alternator was buggered!? If the clocks are out - it wont charge which will kill the battery but wont do any damage to the alternator, would it?

Ive sorted the clocks now - just got to fit the newly refurbed alternator tomorrow and hopefully it'll all be sorted. Along with fitting a new water temp sensor so that the thing starts when its warm!! Oh what a MUG I must be

Anybody want to buy a WRX

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

as above. the battery light on the dash is part of the ind circuit for the alternator. without it it wont charge. Running an alternator without it wont damage the alternator but as youve found the battery will go flat as its not being charged. There are ways to fool the alternator into thinking the light is there if you need a temp fix>

Tucker82

iTrader: (7)

Got clocks back now so temp fix not needed, but thanks. So having no clocks, the alternator wouldn't charge so killed the battery. The battery was tested and wouldnt even hold a charge so looks like that was knackered anyway, along with the alternator. So looks like it just all came at once... NICE!

Well, new battery, new clocks and like new alternator, she should be good as new.

Another bunch of info learnt...