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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 02:43 PM
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Default Car won't start ??

Can anyone help me please ??...

Its another car wont start problem .... when i turn the key, there is just a click sound?!

The battery is not dead and it doesn't even sound like its want to start.

Any ides????

Car is a 99 STI help help
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 03:17 PM
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Immobiliser or alarm ? Battery got a good charge ? Tried jumping it ? Fuses and relays ok ? Lose wires ? Would double check the battery then try jumping it
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 03:27 PM
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Car doesnt have imobilser.... battery indicator shows full charge.... from what i can tell, fuses and relays seem fine.... dont think its the alarm, as it wouldnt suddenly cause a problem.... or would it?

someone suggested the starter motor might be at fault?...

There is just a single click sound when I try and turn it over?!
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 03:31 PM
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check all the earths
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by top_fuel
don't think its the alarm, as it wouldnt suddenly cause a problem.... or would it?
It might well do. What type of alarm is it? Is the alarm (as far as you can tell) working normally?

someone suggested the starter motor might be at fault?...

There is just a single click sound when I try and turn it over?!
It'd help if you gave us a bit more information. Alarm type is one thing. Plus, do all the dash lights, accessories (stereo, fan, etc) come on as normal? Do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the ignition on? Does the "click" occur as you move the ignition switch to the crank position, and if not, when? Can you place whereabouts in the engine bay or cabin this click is occurring? Have you checked the fuses under the bonnet as well as behind the coin tray?

Most likely a stuck or knackered starter solenoid, could be the motor itself, could be a failure in the alarm's immobiliser relays, or connections to/from it, or something else. Answer the questions above and it'll be easier for us to help you.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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Its a foreign alarm, it doesn't have an imobiliser and got it fitted when the car was in HK... nothing seems abnormal about it though... as far as i can tell its fine.

The battery is fine too... the window on the battery indicates a full charge... plus all the electrics work, including the headlights, dash lights, radio and alarm.

Theres a click sound when you move the ignition to the crank position... and the sound is coming from the LEFT hand TOP side area (when looking at the engine standing in front of the car). The click also seems to quieten after a few attempted cranks and have to wait a very small while before its gets louder again.

Checked all the fuses, wires, leads etc.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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tryed turning your engine to make sure it aint siezed?

You can turn it your self from where the pully wheel is.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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Try giving the starter motor a tap with a hammer just to make sure its not jammed other than that suspect starter motor faulty due to getting a clicking noise from it you know its been fed with a 12v supply.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 06:08 PM
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Take everything esle out of the equation by isolating the starter motor... Run a length of battery cable direct from pos terminal of batt to the live terminal on starter. If it still don't crank the engine over but still clicks, then 'got' to be jammed solenoid or jammed starter pinion.

BTW, the above is a simple way to prime the oil pump/lubrication system immediately after an oil/filter change (rather than remove the crank sensor).

Last edited by joz8968; Jul 18, 2009 at 06:19 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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Hi thanxs for input fellas

What do you mean by "Run a length of battery cable direct from pos terminal of batt to the live terminal on starter" ?

The positive cable from battery already goes into the starter motor right?

Do I need to take off the TMIC to go around and have a fiddle with the starter motor?

Thanks for helping
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 10:31 PM
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Sorry, it would have to go to the other terminal on the starter with the thin ign wire on (so as to bypass the ign switch and energise it).

Last edited by joz8968; Jul 18, 2009 at 10:36 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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Helpful info here:-

Starter testing
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 11:53 PM
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This better explains what I'm trying to get you to do:-

"Isolating the starter from the rest of the circuit is the proper approach. This is easily accomplished by shorting the positive battery wire connected to solenoid, which in turn bypasses all other electrical connections. The positive solenoid wire is easily identified in that it is connected to the solenoid by means of a push-on style connector. Simply take a 6" length of medium gauge wire and strip both ends. Touch one end to the push-on terminal located on the solenoid and the other to the positive battery cable. See diagram. Remember to make sure the car is in
neutral and the wheels are properly blocked. If the starter
does not crank then replacement will be necessary. If the starter cranks, there is a problem with the ignition switch and/or
the wiring extending from the switch to the starter."


Source: http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wired/w...ired_03_01.htm

Last edited by joz8968; Jul 19, 2009 at 12:05 AM.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by martinwrx
Try giving the starter motor a tap with a hammer just to make sure its not jammed other than that suspect starter motor faulty due to getting a clicking noise from it you know its been fed with a 12v supply.
^^^^ What he said, exactly. Joz's advice is correct as far as it goes, but it's a little pointless given that you obviously can hear the starter clicking and thus we know that power is reaching it.

Tapping the side of the starter lightly with a hammer is a good move, might free off a sticking solenoid or nudge the motor enough to move it past a dead pole. Sounds though like it needs replacing.

Incidentally, the "window" on your battery. Are you absolutely sure it's showing you charge level, rather than fluid level?
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Splitpin
...Joz's advice is correct as far as it goes, but it's a little pointless given that you obviously can hear the starter clicking and thus we know that power is reaching it...
Yeah, er... good point.

Sorry OP, I got so wrapped up in checking the starter itself, I 'forgot' that the solenoid clicks and therefore current reaching it anyway!

Without doubt, it's the solenoid or starter pinion sticking. The EXACT same thing happened to me and I bought a nice shiny new recon one off eBay for £80 delivered. BTW, on the days it stuck, if I repeatedly turned the key over, it WOULD eventually free-up and crank... but could take up to about 20 turns of the key!

But I think Paul at Zen said that they can normally fix them when exhibiting your/my symptoms...


Cheapest 'new' (recon'd?!) on ebay:-

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/_W0QQ_d...+4x4&_osacat=0
.

Last edited by joz8968; Jul 20, 2009 at 10:58 AM.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 11:57 AM
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Thanks for all the help fellas... lots of useful links too

All the information is very much appreciated!

... and yup, the window on the battery shows charge level... I got the type of battery that doesnt need topping up ... its a relatively new battery so am very sure its not that

Its hammering with rain down in sunny south wales... so will let you guys know how i get on when it clears up
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 12:26 PM
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Found these too:

Import Car Parts £115

Camskill £117

Both are Recon parts and require you to send them your old unit....

Are these any good?.... or would you go for the eBay item?

Last edited by top_fuel; Jul 19, 2009 at 12:33 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 03:31 PM
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You'll be fine with one from either of those 2 outfits. I'd get it (if they are delivered prices). The cheapest recon units currently on ebay are in that link I posted, which were slightly dearer.

Last edited by joz8968; Jul 19, 2009 at 03:33 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 04:07 PM
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try bump staring it, if it starts then it the starter motor, it usally makes that noise when the starter has gone, im pretty sure it would work
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