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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 03:05 PM
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Default changing spark plugs

right im going to change my spark plugs but ive heard this is a pain in the rear to do so any hints tips or pics would be very handy ive a search and i cannot find any links so i thought i would ask.
plus i have noticed looking at the engine you cannot see them i know they are there but where? im good mechanically just need some pointers of you experts on the subject to get me started or i will never get these done
cheers in advance
lee
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 03:14 PM
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Hi, just done this recently on mine (classic STI) so here's what I had to do...

First, plugs are located on the sides (2 on each head), so to get to them I had to remove the screen wash reservoir on the right side and the intake on the left side (i have I/K installed but standard airbox would probably get in the way more)

Then after that I could get to them using smaller sized spark plug socket - I got a spark plug service tool kit from Halfrauds, turned out to be v. handy for this, especially the locking extension bars and angled ratchet

I did one plug at a time to make sure the leads went on the right way again

Remember not to over-tighten the new plugs, & its probably worth checking the plug gaps on the new ones just in case (mine were already set to 0.7mm)

Hope that helps,

Pete
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 03:18 PM
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Mate, I'm not the most mechanically minded person in the world but brake pads are VERY easy on a Scoob, plugs not so bad either.
There's a guide on here somewhere with photos - you're a full member so should be able to find it.
Essentially it's washer bottle and battery out one side, airbox the other and then coilpacks off to get at the plugs.

As Pete says you'll need a decent extension bar - it's fiddly.
Also make sure the spark plug socket you use doesn't have a loose rubber boot - if the boot comes off on the plug when it's in it's a NIGHTMARE to get off again (as I discovered).

You may find the bolts for the coilpacks on the N/S, especially the rear one very tight; recommend if that's the case, do it very slowly and don't over-apply pressure as if it snaps off it's apparently a total bugger to put get sorted. I put a smear of copper grease on the threads of each coil pack bolt when I finished each plug.

Gap the plugs between 0.65 to 0.70. IIRC Bob Rawle recommends 0.65. Check the gaps even if the plugs say they're pre-gapped - it pays to be safe!

Last edited by MrNoisy; Jun 19, 2009 at 03:21 PM.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 04:28 PM
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are the plugs under the black square like caps on each side?
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 04:37 PM
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I think that's right - those sound like the coil packs, mine doesn't have those, just one coil on top of the engine but yours might have individual coil packs for each plug... as above take care removing the bolts...
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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forgot to say its a bugeye wrx
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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Ah right - haven't seen one of those up close yet
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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its really not that bad (on the classics anyway). the secret is to have the correct LENGTH of socket. ON the classics you only need to remove the washer bottle on the right (two screws and a multi plug) dont need to remove anything on the left.

Last edited by dj219957; Jun 19, 2009 at 05:27 PM.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by scoobyhurky
forgot to say its a bugeye wrx
I used this guide mate:
How to change your sparkplugs - ClubWRX Forum - Subaru Impreza WRX and STi Community and Forums

With this I had no problems.
Yes the "black square plastic" bits are the coilpacks.
Good luck
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 06:18 PM
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cheers thankyou for the link
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