is there anything that needs to be done after fitting a fmic? will boost pressure be affected? also fitting decat fp and cone filter at the same time.
car is my 99 turbo 2000 wagon.

 

A remap will be needed to gain any horses.

 

If not already had a re-map get one done or at the very least have someone check fueling is ok on the rollers,

The front mount will give a little more lag depending on what turbo you have and your driving style, you will notice a difference in power a the chrage temp is lower,

 

I have the same question- I want to fit a FMIC for the safety factor of lower intake temps, rather than more power (all in good time), but dont know if its unsafe to do so because of fuelling.

 

If you fit an FMIC you will need a remap. As the OP has indicated, there are also other ancillaries to think about, e.g. you will need a induction kit and usually an hose that will let you relocate the dump valve.

The car will be fine driven off boost prior to the remap, but pressing on would be ill-advised!

Suggest you speak to someone who is very experienced with FMIC's like Harvey, on here.

Ns04

 

yeah if you fit with out a remap you can cause damge to your engine and it can run lean

 

Why would you need a re-map? The fitting of a FMIC does not increase the boost pressure, which is the main reason for a re-map of the fuelling. All it will do is reduce the air temperature by a few degree's, yes this will cause a slightly denser airmass but nothing that the standard ECU cannot learn. The first mod I did to my 2002 STi was to fit a MRT FMIC, this included induction kit and a mount for the dump valve. I ran this for over a year in Cyprus blasting up and down the Troudos mountains on runs with other scoobies. Yes the car will have a bit more lag and it will take a little bit of getting used to. A remap may produce a few extra horses as thiongs can be pushed a bit more before det occurs. When I decided to get mine tuned with exhaust, fuel pump and ECU it was rollered at 290 bhp up from the stndard 265 but that was mainly due to the tubular headers that I had fitted. The remap was only required after the Exhaust with sports cat had been fitted. Be careful about fitting a induction kit as the turbulent air really upsets the MAF sensor, as I run a MAP sensor on the GEMS ecu it is nota problem but come MOT time what a pain.

 

I have to say thats my view, but not commonly shared. I would have thought that its the equivalent of running the car in the winter, with colder air.

Perhaps the question is does the car measure Intake temps, or how does it account for air temps generally?

My issue (apart from not knowing exactly which car I have) is that I live in jersey, so a remap is a boat trip etc away, and that mounts up the costs.

 

The air temp sensor is part of the MAF sensor so whether it goes through a TMIC or a FMIC the ECU will not see the temperature change. You could go on a holiday up to Scotland and by accident get the car remapped by Andy F at the same time. Keeps the family happy and you get what you want. Being silly about going all the way to Scotland but a short break including a re-map would be enjoyable. I did that I went down to Aylesbury from Manchester for a few days having come back from the Falklands with a mate and had a number of sociables whilst G-Force motorsport now DSAutomotive tweaked my car.

 

Thats a pain- so it therefore presumes a level of cooling based on the standard TMIC I presume, so lowering intake temps could cause issues.

On my old MR2 turbo there was a reasonable amount you could change (IC, intake, downpipe, exhausts) and that worked well with a MAF and standard ECU, but these ECU's seem a little more finely setup as a starter.

I may have a need to go to Poole with work to visit some clients!

 

What year car do you have? I know that mine a 2002 STi is a learning ECU, a progressive drive after any changes will allow it to learn and adjust. I am lead to believe that the off boost map (3000 rpm (ish)and below is fixed) ie Closed Loop. But once the engine comes on boost it goes to open loop working of the Lambda sensors, etc (please feel free to correct me if I have got these the wrong way round. On my third Vodka and coke "not pub measures").

 

1998, and not learning as I understand Its weird- should have checked first, but assumed basic bolt on mods would work- hey ho!

 

I spent 5 months researching before I really spent money on modifying my car the first time. Even now I will spend weeks looking through articles bouncing ideas of the guy who map's mine before I pull the plastic out of my wallet.

 

Wrong way around. It uses lambda on closed loop to keep AFR at stoich.

 

As I put on my Third oopps Fourth Vodka. Hic Hic

 

If you fit a front mount intercooler it is foolhardy not to have the car mapped. You should get all the mods that you plan once you are ready to fit the FMIC, do them all together and get a remap. Without a remap at best all that happens is that you do not release the full potential now the FMIC is fitted. At worst your engine needs a lot more fuel, possibly in areas of the map that the car could not get to before with the top mount and if the car is held in these areas it is only a matter of time before you pick up a piston in the bore.
I accept that some people get away without a remap after fitting an FMIC but not everybody will and if you want to fit a front mount and then run the car below its potential that is entirely your decision but it is very unwise to suggest to the broader audience that a remap is not necessary.
As someone who sells front mount intercoolers it would obviously be better for me if a remap was not necessary as the cost of going FMIC would be that much less so be quite clear that I would not be advocating a remap on fitting an FMIC if it were not necessary.

 

i was told by the previous owner that it had a prodrive ecu fitted if that makes any difference? i will pull it out soon and have a look, im not driving the car for 2 weeks now so i think a remap will be best when i get it back on the road.