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Old 05 April 2009, 06:56 PM
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Jamieee
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Default Not sure whats going on!

On idle my car sounds like it's missing alittle, under hard acceleration it pulls ok altho sometimes if feels like its holding back.

Driving at a constant speed it really judders! Iv had people say MAF or coil pack?

Is it true if you start the engine and pull the MAF sensor off and it stalls then its not that?

Its a99 UK Turbo with a decat exhaust and panel filter thats it.

Thanks in advance.
Old 05 April 2009, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jamieee
...Is it true if you start the engine and pull the MAF sensor off and it stalls then its not that?...
That's right. So if it idles the same, then it could be knackered... BUT... it's not a failsafe test. Just gives you an indication of whether it could be it or not. So not nuch use really!
Old 05 April 2009, 07:33 PM
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99greenwagon
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spark plugs?
Old 05 April 2009, 07:45 PM
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I'm not rising to it 99gw - the mods will soon be having words about our silliness.
Old 05 April 2009, 08:07 PM
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Jamieee
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Originally Posted by joz8968
I'm not rising to it 99gw - the mods will soon be having words about our silliness.
??
Old 05 April 2009, 08:07 PM
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99greenwagon
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i agree mate,genuinly could be plugs tho! im trying to help here!
Old 05 April 2009, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Jamieee
??
private joke between me and joz.....
Old 05 April 2009, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Jamieee
??
LOL. Don't worry Jamieee.

99gw and I have a long-standing in joke - we're pathetic.
Old 05 April 2009, 08:40 PM
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Seriously:-

Plugs
Coilpacks
MAF

These are the likely culprits.
Old 05 April 2009, 08:40 PM
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MAF, I had similar, never gave itself up fully, just times of juddering stuttering etc.

I changed cam and phase sensor first to no avail.
Old 05 April 2009, 08:44 PM
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99greenwagon
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Originally Posted by joz8968
Seriously:-

Plugs
Coilpacks
MAF

These are the likely culprits.
i agree on all of them!
Old 05 April 2009, 10:03 PM
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Jamieee
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thanks guys, just wanna try the cheapest option first!!
Old 05 April 2009, 10:37 PM
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i got maf, cam and phase for 40 quid
Old 05 April 2009, 10:52 PM
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What fuel are you using?
Old 06 April 2009, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by s70rjw
What fuel are you using?
Shell optimax
Old 07 April 2009, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Jamieee
...optimax


Old 09 April 2009, 08:43 PM
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Right after a Diagnostic Test we think its the MAF, so I go to take the old one out, wtf are them screws? You would need like a phillips style screw driver but instead of a point on the end it would need an indent.

Halfords and parkers dont sell the tool, and subaru want £49 to fit the MAF!

Where can I get the tool to do it?
Old 09 April 2009, 08:51 PM
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99greenwagon
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i used a pair of plier/grips to get them out and then replaced them with normal set screw bolts,8mm spanner size,jobs a gooden,subaru asking £49 is a joke as it is a 2 min job!
Old 09 April 2009, 09:38 PM
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Question

Are they like the below star shaped indent?:-



If so, these are called Torx (favoured by French car makers, normally).


Or are they like this?:-



Pozidrive.



Last edited by joz8968; 09 April 2009 at 09:40 PM.
Old 09 April 2009, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by joz8968
Are they like the below star shaped indent?:-



If so, these are called Torx (favoured by French car makers, normally).


Or are they like this?:-



Pozidrive.


they are not pozidrive,they are the same as top pic and in the middle there is a small bit that sticks out a little......if that makes any sense?:
Old 09 April 2009, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 99greenwagon
they are not pozidrive,they are the same as top pic and in the middle there is a small bit that sticks out a little......if that makes any sense?:
Mr greenwagon is right thats what they are..... i cant get them to budge!
Old 09 April 2009, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Jamieee
Mr greenwagon is right thats what they are..... i cant get them to budge!
it takes a bit of doing but if u use adjustable grips or normal biggish pair of pliers as long as you have a good hold on the screw heads they will turn out,squeeze harder and turn!
Old 09 April 2009, 10:24 PM
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maplins sll the screwdriver you are after mate also anyone who can get hold of draper tools
Old 09 April 2009, 10:29 PM
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33 PC SECURITY BIT SET TORX HEX STAR SCREWDRIVER HEAD on eBay, also, Screwdrivers, Hand Tools, Business, Office Industrial (end time 13-Apr-09 14:52:08 BST)

the piece is in that all you need is the screwdriver for it
Old 14 April 2009, 07:29 PM
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More confused now than ever.......

1: Car running like a bag when driven normally, would not accelrate, revs all over the place on idle etc (no backfiring)

Iv just changed the MAF as advised after a diagnostic test.

2: Now it drives fine at normal speeds, but once I accelrate its sputters, coughs and backfires..... Its as if the roles have reversed. mad2.gif mad2.gif

Any ideas anyone..... losing the will to live.

Jamie

P.S Iv also now go the check engine light on, is this cus Iv changed the MAF????
Old 14 April 2009, 07:46 PM
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Possibly - as if the MAF is now good, it's (correct) voltages prob now confuse the ECU (as it may have adapted to the old knackered MAF's voltages).

Do an ECU reset, then go from there:-


Classic (JECS) ECU Reset
  1. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature, turn engine off
  2. Locate the two ECU connectors, located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector
  3. With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.
  4. Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle, then return it to the half-throttle position and hold for a few seconds, and then release
  5. Engine Check lamp turns on
  6. Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h.
  7. ECU is now re-set.
  8. At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.
  9. Stop the car and turn off the engine.
  10. Disconnect the black and green connectors.
  11. Job complete
Black and Green Connectors on Classic

Last edited by joz8968; 15 April 2009 at 10:18 AM.
Old 14 April 2009, 10:25 PM
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ive got a simler problem on my 99 uk turbo drive steady 1500rpm to 3000rpm and it feels like its overfueling when u floor it it clears know its not airflow,plugs,leads changed them couple of months ago, the only other thing it lambda that alters the fuel pluged it in on my m8 diagnostic and lambda sat at a flat 0.9 unpluged the sensor it went to 0.3 gonna get 1 tomorrow hope it fixes it
Old 15 April 2009, 10:21 AM
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Yeah gav, the Lambda sensor's voltage should continually cycle up and down between 0V and 0.9V, when working correctly.
Old 15 April 2009, 03:08 PM
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Jamieee
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Originally Posted by joz8968
Possibly - as if the MAF is now good, it's (correct) voltages prob now confuse the ECU (as it may have adapted to the old knackered MAF's voltages).

Do an ECU reset, then go from there:-


Classic (JECS) ECU Reset
  1. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature, turn engine off
  2. Locate the two ECU connectors, located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector
  3. With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.
  4. Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle, then return it to the half-throttle position and hold for a few seconds, and then release
  5. Engine Check lamp turns on
  6. Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h.
  7. ECU is now re-set.
  8. At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.
  9. Stop the car and turn off the engine.
  10. Disconnect the black and green connectors.
  11. Job complete
Black and Green Connectors on Classic
I did the ecu reset and the light flashed as if all is ok.... soon as I switched off and disconnected the black/green connectors started up and the check engine light was on and the symptoms are the same......

The other wierd thiong is with the old MAF sensor in the check engime light never came on.......
Old 15 April 2009, 03:15 PM
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Looks like, ironically, that your replacement MAF is knack'd... and the old one is fine!

You only replaced it because you thought it was the problem, yes? Did you voltage test either MAF to see if they're any good?

Prob coilpack/s that giving you the trouble.

Last edited by joz8968; 15 April 2009 at 04:15 PM.



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