HELP ME! whats wrong with my car?
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HELP ME! whats wrong with my car?
Picked the scoob up from the paint shop today - and its now got problems...
The car REALLY struggles to start. I had trouble with it starting from warm before where it would just crank but not fire, just turnover. Leave it 5 mins then it would go. I replaced the crank sensor and that seemed to iron it out... until now
If I turn it over, its firing (this is from cold, where it used to start no problem) like it wants to go, but pops and wobbles. Not just a normal turnover?!
When it finally ticks over - the fans are on from cold, and do not turn off...
No engine check light as I think some fu*!er has messed about with it in the past, so ive never seen it on.
Im guessing somebody has had this problem before. I can only think water temp sensor, but would that cause the fans to come on constantly?
Thanks
Tucker
The car REALLY struggles to start. I had trouble with it starting from warm before where it would just crank but not fire, just turnover. Leave it 5 mins then it would go. I replaced the crank sensor and that seemed to iron it out... until now
If I turn it over, its firing (this is from cold, where it used to start no problem) like it wants to go, but pops and wobbles. Not just a normal turnover?!
When it finally ticks over - the fans are on from cold, and do not turn off...
No engine check light as I think some fu*!er has messed about with it in the past, so ive never seen it on.
Im guessing somebody has had this problem before. I can only think water temp sensor, but would that cause the fans to come on constantly?
Thanks
Tucker
Last edited by Tucker82; 04 April 2009 at 11:53 PM.
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I've suspected it for months now so i've ordered a new one from ebay but not sure if its any good or not. So if the temp sensor is completely fudged then would it cause the fans to stay on constantly? Im wondering if it would be worth re-setting the ecu..
Thanks for the reply
Thanks for the reply
#4
Hi mate, having the same problem (in relation to the fans starting even when cold) see my thread 'whats going on' which i started this evening. I've not read the ECU yet but presume its going to point towards the coolant temp sensor!? Mine does the same as yours 'pops and wobbles' is your hesitant for a short while when it does start? bit of a flat spot? but runs fine once going?
I don't know if it's related but my battery seems abit fooked also, not holding much charge and states on the diagnostic machine 'unservicable'
You've obviously got a problem, someone may have taken out the CEL bulb from the dash?
Keep us posted if you come accross some answers n i will too!
paul
I don't know if it's related but my battery seems abit fooked also, not holding much charge and states on the diagnostic machine 'unservicable'
You've obviously got a problem, someone may have taken out the CEL bulb from the dash?
Keep us posted if you come accross some answers n i will too!
paul
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Hi mate, having the same problem (in relation to the fans starting even when cold) see my thread 'whats going on' which i started this evening. I've not read the ECU yet but presume its going to point towards the coolant temp sensor!? Mine does the same as yours 'pops and wobbles' is your hesitant for a short while when it does start? bit of a flat spot? but runs fine once going?
I don't know if it's related but my battery seems abit fooked also, not holding much charge and states on the diagnostic machine 'unservicable'
You've obviously got a problem, someone may have taken out the CEL bulb from the dash?
Keep us posted if you come accross some answers n i will too!
paul
I don't know if it's related but my battery seems abit fooked also, not holding much charge and states on the diagnostic machine 'unservicable'
You've obviously got a problem, someone may have taken out the CEL bulb from the dash?
Keep us posted if you come accross some answers n i will too!
paul
Not sure about the battery tho... mine seems to be fine. Its done well in the past when ive been cranking it over from warm.
Ive checked the bulb on the rear of the dash cluster. There is one there but not sure if its blown or not so will have to check..
I will read your thread and keep you posted once I find the cause!
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When you put the keys in the ignition and turn it to as far as it will go (but not cranking the starter though), then the 'CHECK ENGINE' CEL should illuminate for a second or two, before going out again. If it doesn't do this, then to double check, do an ECU fault code check as advised. If absolutely no flashing activity from the CEL, then chances are the CEL bulb has blown...
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When you put the keys in the ignition and turn it to as far as it will go (but not cranking the starter though), then the 'CHECK ENGINE' CEL should illuminate for a second or two, before going out again. If it doesn't do this, then to double check, do an ECU fault code check as advised. If absolutely no flashing activity from the CEL, then chances are the CEL bulb has blown...
Thanks
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Sounds like the temp sensor to me too.
And don't worry, it shouldn't sting you £130 like said above, the sensor is only £27 from Subaru and easy enough to fit yourself but I had to remove the alternator to do mine.
And don't worry, it shouldn't sting you £130 like said above, the sensor is only £27 from Subaru and easy enough to fit yourself but I had to remove the alternator to do mine.
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Do the other 4 lights come on?:-
cat on fire
oil
handbrake/brake fluid level
battery
(I think the handbrake and battery remain on - but the others go out).
Is the CEL the only one that doesn't light up initially out of thenm all (if so there should be a conspicuous gap in the line of lights)?
cat on fire
oil
handbrake/brake fluid level
battery
(I think the handbrake and battery remain on - but the others go out).
Is the CEL the only one that doesn't light up initially out of thenm all (if so there should be a conspicuous gap in the line of lights)?
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Ordered one from ebay - about 25 quid. Im changing the turbo soon, along with painting the inlet, fitting a catch can and doing some serious cleaning so will do it all at the same time...
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Do the other 4 lights come on?:-
cat on fire
oil
handbrake/brake fluid level
battery
(I think the handbrake and battery remain on - but the others go out).
Is the CEL the only one that doesn't light up initially out of thenm all (if so there should be a conspicuous gap in the line of lights)?
cat on fire
oil
handbrake/brake fluid level
battery
(I think the handbrake and battery remain on - but the others go out).
Is the CEL the only one that doesn't light up initially out of thenm all (if so there should be a conspicuous gap in the line of lights)?
Yes mate all the others come on apart from CEL, which is at the far right... Ive never seen it so im hoping its just a blown bulb and not sabotage
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Sorry, just realised the 'handbrake/brake fluid' light isn't part of that bank of lights - well it isn't on the pre MY98 early dash anyway.
And it's the oil/batt lights that remain on; CoF/CEL go out.
But yes, very much pointing to a failed CEL bulb...
And it's the oil/batt lights that remain on; CoF/CEL go out.
But yes, very much pointing to a failed CEL bulb...
Last edited by joz8968; 06 April 2009 at 11:38 AM.
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ahhh there! Thanks chaps. At least I know what meant to be on the dash now!!
I got the new temp sensor today so will try to fit during the week at some point, along with an ECU reset. I'll update the thread to let those that would like to know if that was the cause of the problem or not.
Tucker
I got the new temp sensor today so will try to fit during the week at some point, along with an ECU reset. I'll update the thread to let those that would like to know if that was the cause of the problem or not.
Tucker
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Right - today I got the new temp sensor fitted after having to remove the induction and intercooler pipes as my hands are like shovels! Put it all back together - Still had MASSIVE trouble getting going - wobbling and coughing with very little response on the throttle. Fans going full Tony from cold again too. So now Im thinking the ECU still thinks theres a fault.
I have disconnected the battery so re-set the ECU as my CEL light is out of action. Am I right in that to re-set the ECU with no battery, it will take 24 hours?
So fingers crossed, when I reconnect the battery the ECU will have to learn the fault again.... if the temp sensor has no fault - all should be good in the hood!??
AM I RIGHT OR BEING STOOPID?
Tucker
I have disconnected the battery so re-set the ECU as my CEL light is out of action. Am I right in that to re-set the ECU with no battery, it will take 24 hours?
So fingers crossed, when I reconnect the battery the ECU will have to learn the fault again.... if the temp sensor has no fault - all should be good in the hood!??
AM I RIGHT OR BEING STOOPID?
Tucker
#21
Bleedin scoobs eh! I may be wrong but I think it only takes an hour or 2 to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery? Did you have the scoob coded to make sure that was the only fault? When you reconnect the battery and if the problem persists you may have to get a garage to check for fault codes, thats if you don't get the CEL sorted. I had a new battery fitted today and the garage confirmed the sensor is dead and is ordering one ASAP. II'll keep my fingers crossed for you mate, let us know how it goes.
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Tucker, to stop you speculating whether or not the ECU has succesfully been reset, then rule it out by doing it the 'proper way' :-
Classic (JECS) ECU Reset
Black and Green Connectors on Classic
Classic (JECS) ECU Reset
- Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature, turn engine off
- Locate the two ECU connectors, located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector
- With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.
- Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle, then return it to the half-throttle position and hold for a few seconds, and then release
- Engine Check lamp turns on
- Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h.
- ECU is now re-set.
- At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.
- Stop the car and turn off the engine.
- Disconnect the black and green connectors.
- Job complete
Black and Green Connectors on Classic
Last edited by joz8968; 07 April 2009 at 09:46 PM.
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Tucker, to stop you speculating whether or not the ECU has succesfully been reset, then rule it out by doing it the 'proper way' :-
Classic (JECS) ECU Reset
Black and Green Connectors on Classic
Classic (JECS) ECU Reset
- Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature, turn engine off
- Locate the two ECU connectors, located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector
- With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.
- Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle, then return it to the half-throttle position and hold for a few seconds, and then release
- Engine Check lamp turns on
- Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h.
- ECU is now re-set.
- At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.
- Stop the car and turn off the engine.
- Disconnect the black and green connectors.
- Job complete
Black and Green Connectors on Classic
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I totally forgot about that when posting!!!!!!!! What a ****.
Forget that - just disconnect battery for 1/2 hour. It's enough for it to lose its remembered IAM setting, etc.
But if not convinced, just disconnect it when you know you won't be using it again that day - so it remains disconnected overnight...
Last edited by joz8968; 08 April 2009 at 12:02 PM.
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its been disconnected since 6pm yesterday so I will find out after work!
I'll get the clocks out to sort this CEL too.
Let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the help guys
Tucker
I'll get the clocks out to sort this CEL too.
Let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the help guys
Tucker
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Good news - looks like it has worked. Started no problem first time and didn't hesitate and fans stayed off (didn't let it get to temp as I was in a rush)
Fingers crossed it was worked permanently - Again, thanks for all the help..
999wrx - let me know how yours gets on bud
Tucker
Fingers crossed it was worked permanently - Again, thanks for all the help..
999wrx - let me know how yours gets on bud
Tucker
#30
Wa-hay! fitted the temp sensor today and had the same prob as tucker, disconnected the battery, left it off for an hour or 2, reconnected and hey presto the cars sorted, it pulls like a train, it was faulty from when i bought the car n now its fixed it feels like a different car, so much smoother! Who'd have thought a £25.00 sensor could make such a difference!