goujon

tomorrow im am going to pick up an impreza 2.0 turbo 260bhp what sort of thing should i be aware of and should i look out for...?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

I take it you mean a regular 4-door Sedan, and not a Wagon?

If so, the 260PS (256bhp) 4-dr Impreza is a NON-STi JDM WRX or WRX Type RA; either a MY95 (v.1) or MY96 (v.2).

First thing is to check you have the correct car it's purporting to be - check the metal VIN plate riveted to the passenger side front suspension turret. The 'Applied model' codes you'll be looking for are:-

GC8B48D... MY95 (v.1) WRX
GC8B47D... MY95 (v.1) WRX Type RA

GC8C48D... MY96 (v.2) WRX
GC8C47D... MY96 (v.2) WRX Type RA

...Where B or C is for MY95 and MY96, and 8/7 the codes for WRX and WRX Type RA, respectfully.

However, this doens't mean to say it's got the correct engine in though - could've easily had an engine change. But that's actually not a problem (unless you're wanting originality lol), because the oldest/lowest spec JDM engine is the v.1/2 WRX's/WRX Type RA's anyway - so, IMO, anything alse is a 'bonus'!... Just so long as it's NOT got a UK/Eur/Aus/Nz/RoW 208 or 215bhp engine in...

If the engine is a stock one - i.e. the phase 1 MY93-96 WRX/WRX Type RA "EJ20G" with TD05H 16g turbo and small black angled intercooler - then you need to check you have the correct ECU (which effectively dictates the engine's power/torque/max boost). The 260PS rated ECU is a "Z4" (maybe some other codes too - ask fellow SN member myblackwrx...). So check under the passenger carpet... remove the aluminium kickpanel... and see what large, 2-character code is on the lid of the ECU...

goujon

yeah its a 4 door sedan and says 260bhp so i need to just make sure its what it says it is? anything i should look for or is it just the usual?

goujon

also it doesnt have an induction kit on it yet what do you recomend? ive seen k&n 57i for it on ebay 63.99 plus p+p.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Make sure it starts okay, idles okay, runs okay, gets all gears, and brakes okay. Check ALL electrical items.

Get engine up to temp and place varing loads/boost on the engine/drivetrain - listen out for anything untoward. It should accelerate very smoothly - with max boost coming in about 3,500-4000rpm - and cleanly to the red line. If there's a boost gauge fitted, check it's not going over 0.9bar(13psi), but also not tailing off too much near the redline. If you've never been in a 200+bhp car before, it should feel very fast.

Make sure the water temp needle stays at midway - again use lots of boost on the test drive. Come to a halt and leave it idling for 5mins. Whilst doing this, pop the lid and feel the top and bottom hoses - they should be hot and quite firm with the top hose almost too hot to touch after a few secs. Check the overflow plastc beige tank by the battery - it should have coolant in and be between midway and near the top. Make sure it's not bubbling away rapidly - and check that the battery tray isn't covered in coolant. Make sure the fans come on/go off, come on/go off, etc. Go back inside and place heater fan and temp to full on - should have really hot air blowing through.

If all the above tests are okay then, good, you don't have a knackered water pump/stat/head gasket, or an airlock...

Whislt in the engine bay, check for oil leaks.

Now, when 5mins idling is up, rev the engine to about 5k - is there any blue smoke out the exhaust? if so, suspect turbo oil seals failing or, indeed, the thrust bearing...

goujon

ok mate cheers will give it full check over and hopefully will be a good one and looking forward to being in the scooby family lol. will let ya know what happens.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

If no IK is fitted but still has the airbox, then keep using the OEM paper element or either a Green/Apexi/K&N or Cosworth panel replacemnt.

Also, I forgot, to mention, before starting the car, check for oil leaks and all fluid levels are correct, etc.Check the oil is between the max and min marks (cold max is the 2nd full 'hole' up the dipstick; hot max is the semi-circular 'notch' in the side, further up). Check the condition of the oil - is it old and really black/sludgey or nice and 'clear', golden and new, etc.

Check the V5 and make sure the car is the correct model - check the chassis code against the VIN plate. Make sure the seller is who they say they are, correct address, etc. Check it's got a current, valid MOT and tax disc, etc.

Check all service history and re-arrange in chronological order (if not already) and check any stated milages/dates seem to tally up, etc. Check for large, hard-to-explain gaps in the history and press the owner on it. Check the integrity of the garages used i.e. well known spoecialists/main dealers, etc.

DO NOT be shy in asking the seller ANY relevent questions - if he/she's an enthusiast, it will become evident. But not every owner is, so don't necessarily be put off... The service history should tell a lot about owner and the way the car's been previously looked after, etc...

goujon

ok cheers mate will give it a good going over and fingers crossed its ok and will be driving it tomorrow will keep you posted.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, post up pics of interior/exterior, engine bay, ECU casing in the footwell and VIN plate, then we can confirm or not lol if you've got the correct car and any other useful info...

goujon

hello mate i got it, all good as far as i can tell i took my mate with me, he has a legacy and knows a little we checked the ecu fault codes it came up with 22 & 23. it stutters a bit if you hammer it but might be over boosting so guna get a boost controller for it also has standard air filter, got a dent on front left wing and bonnet so might need new ones in red also has a bailey dump valve is this ok? is very quick car got it for £2000 p reg 88,000 so not bad.

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Mate you need to sort the error codes out first as
22= Knock sensor
23= MAF

The maf failing may cause the engine to run lean and die,unfortunately they aren't cheap £200+ ish

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, goujon do as mbwrx says. You'll prob find that the stuttery running is due to the MAF. And also the knock code might be caused by the MAF too.

First, I'd get rid of the Bailys dv and refit an OEM recirc - this could be the cause of your stutter.

If not, then fill up with V-Power and then do a reset of the ECU and go for a 20min drive. This will allow the ECU to optimise the timing to the fuel (it could have had rubbish fuel/95 in before, hence the stuttery running). If the CEL comes back and you get those codes, then prob best to get a new MAF, etc. If it does come up with the MAF code, then don't drive it on boost until rectified (see below for new MAF...):-

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=1138

goujon

sorry been busy will post some pics on asap of outside and inside, need to cure stutter omly happens when hammering it. think the bailey dump valve isnt right for the subaru and also maf might need changing then an ecu reset so will try this and hopefully cure it, which induction kit and which dump valve should i use and i dont want the standard ones...?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

When trying to cure rough running probs, it IS best to try to return the car back to std as much as possible. So, first I'd do a reset and run it for a day or two on V-Power and see where you are (costs nothing). If still doing it, then replace that aftermarket dv with a cheap plastic OEM recirc item [then reset again] off eBay - only about £10 and could very well be the reason...

If still running rough, then I'd possibly look at plugs and maybe coilpacks...

All thsi is assuming the CEL goes away after doing the initial reset - otherwise MAF does prob needs replacing... But I'd try the cheaper stuff mentioned, first.

goujon

where on the engine would i find the code to see if its a uk or jap import replacement because its had an engine change? then i can run it on the right fuel and do the ecu reset...! my paint code is red 559 i need a bonnet and front nearside wing the ones on the car are slightly damaged so id like to replace them so it looks perfect can anyone help...?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Unfortunately if it's had an engine change that would be hard to ascertain.

There should be the engine code on the bottom left hand side (I think) of the cam cover. But I wouldn't know what the difference in the code would be to tell if it's a UK or JDM engine . And how would you know if the covers are the actual ones belonging to the engine in place, anyway?

Regardless, just run it on 97 SUL (Esso Supreme, Texaco, Total, etc - but not BP Ultimate!) - don't bother with 95. Or simply be done with it and use V-Power 99...

goujon

ok mate no worries ill run it on the good stuff, so i still need a red paint code: 559 bonnet, front near side wing and boot with spoiler if anybody has one breaking want to put back origonal boot and spoiler it has tommy kaira spoiler, which will be for sale when I have replaced it any takers?

goujon

ive got some pics to post on here or add to profile or gallery how do you do it? ive put 1 pic as my profile pic to.

goujon

how do i remove the side repeaters on the front wings?

BLACK V5

Just slide them towards the back of the car a bit then they should just lift out.

goujon

ok mate cheers all sorted now, crystal side repeaters installed lol.

goujon

today the car was stuttering and we looked under the bonnet and you can hear a hiss where there is boost leaking out of pipes one pipe was nearly off so pushed back on and it helped a bit so will change al the pipe work to see if it cures the stutter, i hope so, also bought maf cleaner to try that to. if that doesnt work will try putting back original dump valve. other things to try to but will do this first.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yes, put the OEM recirc dv on and check all BCS pipework, etc., before throwing money at her...

goujon

i am about to replace the boost pipes on my impreza and want to know the size in mm they are if anyone knows and can anyone post me a pic on an origonal engine bay up close so i can see?

Peanuts

iTrader: (15)

No offence but you asked for things to look out for buying the car, and it seems to have a few issues and also a chequered past.

Were you just going to buy it anyway regardless?

goujon

well i did like it and decided i wanted it when was there but didnt notice the stuttering until hammering it, but a lot of subarus do this so is quite normal. there are a few body work issues yes but i know i can replace cheap plus i picked it up fairly cheap for a face lift version so happy with it once few small problems sorted.

goujon

so no-one can help me with what size the boost pipe is i need to buy then?