WHITELINE Q's?
I will be turning my attension to the hadling opf the car this summer ready for a trip to the ring. I’ve just got a few points I need clarity on and I’m hoping you guys can clear them up:
ARB Rear: Can anyone confirm that the 22mm adjustable rear ARB is the one to go for on the P1?
DL’s Rear: Out of the Steel and Ali rear droplinks, which is the best to go for?
ALK: Is the ALK actually worth the money? Is the difference distinguishable?
ARB Front: Has anyone uprated this? Is it worth uprating?
DL’s Front: Are these worth uprating to the whiteline ones? As I understand the P1 has uprated ones as standard?
Can anyone give me the product codes for the above mentioned parts?
Would there be anything else at least worth considering?
ARB Rear: Can anyone confirm that the 22mm adjustable rear ARB is the one to go for on the P1?
DL’s Rear: Out of the Steel and Ali rear droplinks, which is the best to go for?
ALK: Is the ALK actually worth the money? Is the difference distinguishable?
ARB Front: Has anyone uprated this? Is it worth uprating?
DL’s Front: Are these worth uprating to the whiteline ones? As I understand the P1 has uprated ones as standard?
Can anyone give me the product codes for the above mentioned parts?
Would there be anything else at least worth considering?
well im not 100% sure if the p1 has uprated drop links or not but the diffrence between ome arb package and the whiteline arb package is worlds apart in my opinion plus if you add the anti lift kit to the mix you will have a car that feels like it corners on rails love it to bits as for the difference between the steel and alloy drop links is price and looks they are both as good as each other hope this helps dave
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
1. Std car....
2. Add an uprated rear ARB = less understeer & body roll, so steering feels sharper and more accurate. Really stiff can be a bit "drift-spec".
3. Add front ARB, and ALK, so the front works harder, so the back doesn't have to.... this reduces oversteer and "calms" the car down. But the overall grip level increases.
4. Geometry set-up to optimism the handling/grip.
5. Add road legal slicks and the grip is astounding.
6. A really stiff front ARB can cause a bit of understeer in damp/wet conditions as the front of the car doesn't "dig-in" quite as hard.
All i.m.h.o.
And yes I did do it in stages
dunx
2. Add an uprated rear ARB = less understeer & body roll, so steering feels sharper and more accurate. Really stiff can be a bit "drift-spec".
3. Add front ARB, and ALK, so the front works harder, so the back doesn't have to.... this reduces oversteer and "calms" the car down. But the overall grip level increases.
4. Geometry set-up to optimism the handling/grip.
5. Add road legal slicks and the grip is astounding.
6. A really stiff front ARB can cause a bit of understeer in damp/wet conditions as the front of the car doesn't "dig-in" quite as hard.
All i.m.h.o.
And yes I did do it in stages

dunx
Simon
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