Check engine light came on followed by no boost then no power Help please
10 February 2009, 05:19 PM
#1
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Check engine light came on followed by no boost then no power Help please
Hi my car engine momentarily lost power then cleared.
10 miles then journey then full shell vmax fuel then 5 mile journey .
Came out started motor, check engine light was on engine idle rough. stopped engine checked fluids leads etc all seemed fine.
Started drive home and lacking power, tried boost but just big hiccup so drove at less than 3000.
2 miles later power died to almost nothing so stopped to see if it would clear
check engine light was intermittent on way home.
engine would only produce about 20 hp if you pumped the throttle quickly(as though it was using accelerator pump only if it was a carburettor)
limped the 1 mile home
hopefully it is something simple, off to check the airfilter as have read other threads feels like fuel starvation
any help much appreciated
MM
10 miles then journey then full shell vmax fuel then 5 mile journey .
Came out started motor, check engine light was on engine idle rough. stopped engine checked fluids leads etc all seemed fine.
Started drive home and lacking power, tried boost but just big hiccup so drove at less than 3000.
2 miles later power died to almost nothing so stopped to see if it would clear
check engine light was intermittent on way home.
engine would only produce about 20 hp if you pumped the throttle quickly(as though it was using accelerator pump only if it was a carburettor)
limped the 1 mile home
hopefully it is something simple, off to check the airfilter as have read other threads feels like fuel starvation
any help much appreciated
MM
10 February 2009, 05:22 PM
#2
you need to check what code has been stored.
Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Scoobypedia / Scoobypedia under the 'ECU' heading shows you how to check (for both newage and classics)
Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Scoobypedia / Scoobypedia under the 'ECU' heading shows you how to check (for both newage and classics)
10 February 2009, 05:46 PM
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Blimey that was quick thanks
righto code 12 starter signal
and code 23 maf circuit
so guess that a blocked filter (wet or old ) might trigger this code 23 so checking this now
code 12 ? might be because of above as it starts ok
MM
righto code 12 starter signal
and code 23 maf circuit
so guess that a blocked filter (wet or old ) might trigger this code 23 so checking this now
code 12 ? might be because of above as it starts ok
MM
10 February 2009, 05:56 PM
#4
You'll have to buy a new MAF (allegedly you can clean them with carb cleaner but i've never done it so don't know but it would only be a temp fix).
Depending on your car they can be expensive.
New maf,reset ecu and it should be fine (hopefully
)
Depending on your car they can be expensive.
New maf,reset ecu and it should be fine (hopefully
)
10 February 2009, 06:22 PM
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Thanks for replies MBW
Ok just checked the filter and dry but due a change as dirty
(only just got car and I changed oil and filter done about 300 miles)
would a dirty filter trigger maf, as in not enough air flow because its partially blocked?
in which case a new filter would solve problem or is it just maf knackered?
MM
Ok just checked the filter and dry but due a change as dirty
(only just got car and I changed oil and filter done about 300 miles)
would a dirty filter trigger maf, as in not enough air flow because its partially blocked?
in which case a new filter would solve problem or is it just maf knackered?
MM
10 February 2009, 11:32 PM
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OK follow the logic but at £200 a go for a new one
any one else like to put there opinion in the pot?
I have found 2nd hand for 60 quid but no guarantee's there,
my car has done 75000 km's, 11 yrs old,is that a normal lifespan for a maf sensor?
Cheers MM
any one else like to put there opinion in the pot?
I have found 2nd hand for 60 quid but no guarantee's there,
my car has done 75000 km's, 11 yrs old,is that a normal lifespan for a maf sensor?
Cheers MM
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11 February 2009, 08:14 AM
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MBW thanks again for your input
I don't think it will want to tick over and as its -2 out there, to save the battery/engine from multiple cold starts I would prefer to test the voltage across the maf.
What should a good one read and can I test with out engine running?
Cheers MM
I don't think it will want to tick over and as its -2 out there, to save the battery/engine from multiple cold starts I would prefer to test the voltage across the maf.
What should a good one read and can I test with out engine running?
Cheers MM
11 February 2009, 09:43 AM
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it starts but after running for about 10 seconds slowly falters and dies
seemed to run slightly better without maf connected but still died after about
10-15 seconds
if i give it a little throttle it hardly helps if you rapidly pump the throttle (not flooring it just wiggling it 10-15 mm) it will just about keep running
seemed to run slightly better without maf connected but still died after about
10-15 seconds
if i give it a little throttle it hardly helps if you rapidly pump the throttle (not flooring it just wiggling it 10-15 mm) it will just about keep running
11 February 2009, 10:03 AM
#11
At high revs voltage should be 4 or above ,idle is about 1v (i think)
The throttle position sensor is another item that keeps your car running so there may be a problem there.
I think you need to get it to a good garage (preferably subaru specialist) tbh.
The throttle position sensor is another item that keeps your car running so there may be a problem there.
I think you need to get it to a good garage (preferably subaru specialist) tbh.
11 February 2009, 10:05 AM
#12
I think the output votages differ across certain MYs. What year's your car?
The MY93-96 v.1/2's is about 1.0V at warmed-up idle, and about 5.0V at WOT/max revs. Intermediate voltages are proportional to the throttle openings/revs in between...
The MY93-96 v.1/2's is about 1.0V at warmed-up idle, and about 5.0V at WOT/max revs. Intermediate voltages are proportional to the throttle openings/revs in between...
11 February 2009, 10:22 AM
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Its a 97 sti saloon
anyone know of a decent garage near here? (Wellingborough east of Northampton)
I was planning on taking it to the guys at Warwick for a service and cambelt change but it wont get there at the moment so need someone closer.
Think my breakdown coverage might cover it for free so maybe
I would think it is just one thing gone as prior to that it was running well so would seem strange if suddenly everything fails (unless you had a voltage spike or similar)
Thanks for your input guys
MM
anyone know of a decent garage near here? (Wellingborough east of Northampton)
I was planning on taking it to the guys at Warwick for a service and cambelt change but it wont get there at the moment so need someone closer.
Think my breakdown coverage might cover it for free so maybe
I would think it is just one thing gone as prior to that it was running well so would seem strange if suddenly everything fails (unless you had a voltage spike or similar)
Thanks for your input guys
MM
11 February 2009, 03:28 PM
#19
As above, Park Farm Ind Est... Baird Court - units C6 & 7 immediately on the left as you turn into the road - can't miss it!
Last edited by joz8968; 11 February 2009 at 03:30 PM.
You got your post in first. 
11 February 2009, 03:44 PM
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No probs thanks for the tip
just ordered a 2nd hand maf as £345 for a new one is pushing my budget!
I'm assured that my type are very reliable, but mine seems to have come to the end of its reliability so no help to me, although the replacement has a better chance of lasting than the newer types.
Are Zen any good then?
Sounded ok on the phone I might pop up for an airfilter
MM
just ordered a 2nd hand maf as £345 for a new one is pushing my budget!
I'm assured that my type are very reliable, but mine seems to have come to the end of its reliability so no help to me, although the replacement has a better chance of lasting than the newer types.
Are Zen any good then?
Sounded ok on the phone I might pop up for an airfilter
MM
11 February 2009, 03:52 PM
#22
£345 for a new MAF wtf
What's the code for your maf (5 numbers 2 letters 3 numbers).
Try Home Page - - Cheam Motors for a price.
Think mine (ok it's a 93wrx) was about £200 (i'll check later)
ZEN Performance - Performance upgrade solutions for Japanese cars - Subaru & Mitsubishi Specialists
What's the code for your maf (5 numbers 2 letters 3 numbers).
Try Home Page - - Cheam Motors for a price.
Think mine (ok it's a 93wrx) was about £200 (i'll check later)
ZEN Performance - Performance upgrade solutions for Japanese cars - Subaru & Mitsubishi Specialists
11 February 2009, 03:59 PM
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£345 for a new MAF wtf
What's the code for your maf (5 numbers 2 letters 3 numbers).
Try Home Page - - Cheam Motors for a price.
Think mine (ok it's a 93wrx) was about £200 (i'll check later)
ZEN Performance - Performance upgrade solutions for Japanese cars - Subaru & Mitsubishi Specialists
What's the code for your maf (5 numbers 2 letters 3 numbers).
Try Home Page - - Cheam Motors for a price.
Think mine (ok it's a 93wrx) was about £200 (i'll check later)
ZEN Performance - Performance upgrade solutions for Japanese cars - Subaru & Mitsubishi Specialists
£382.12 from cheam oucchhh
but hey worth a try
MM
11 February 2009, 06:24 PM
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[quote=myblackwrx;8501778]£345 for a new MAF wtf
What's the code for your maf (5 numbers 2 letters 3 numbers).
22680 AA271
Orange E label
bought a new air filter from Zen 1.8 miles away and told them too up their google profile a bit as they don't show under subaru northants at all!
MM
hopefully tomorrow maf sensor will arrive and it shall be cured
fingers crossed.
What's the code for your maf (5 numbers 2 letters 3 numbers).
22680 AA271
Orange E label
bought a new air filter from Zen 1.8 miles away
and told them too up their google profile a bit as they don't show under subaru northants at all! MM
hopefully tomorrow maf sensor will arrive and it shall be cured
fingers crossed.
11 February 2009, 08:10 PM
#30
Go to 'Reading ECU Fault Codes' go down the page until it says 'Manually Reading ECU Codes (Classic Imprezas only) and there is a picture of the test connectors.
That is the paragraph you need to read the only problem will be finding the connectors because they may be taped up if they've never been used.