DannyBoyTurbo

Last night I got it the car, drove 200 yards down the road and it spluttered and died. Felt like either no fuel or spark.

Fuel pump is priming, it turns over and occationally tries to fire on one or maybe two cylinders but thats it.

I had a few errors showing up, namely...

poo66 Air assisted injector control circuit or circuit low
p0065 Air assisted injector control circuit range/performance

Which I've had and cleared many times before,

Another about heater control or something.

And another saying something like "wrong immobilizer key"

I reset the ECU and the codes cleared and they do not come back while cranking.

Any ideas where to start with this one?

STI_Baly

iTrader: (23)

What car and year is it mate?

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

immobiliser..

fuel pump connection under rear seat (is fuel pup priming when you turn ignition on?)

Simon

RA Dunk

sounds similar to mine, mine ran for a little while then cut out and wouldent start again

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-starting.html

DannyBoyTurbo

Its a 99 Legacy GTB twin turbo (with 2.5 conversion)

Fuel pump is priming.

If it were immobilizer surely it wouldn't fire at all?

I had a starting problem a few weeks ago which was different in that there was no 12v to the starter at all and it wouldn't even turn over. I never found the fault but I fixed it by adding a new wire from ign barrel to starter motor trigger.

DannyBoyTurbo

Dunk - Have you read your fault codes? Surely if it were crank sensor it'd throw an error?

I have no (reccurring) errors on mine so assumed it wouldn't be crank sensor? But I'd like to be proved wrong as thats an easy thing to change.

RA Dunk

no not yet, was intending on doing it today but its too bloody cold to start fannying around with that just now

im going to change the crank/cam sensors anyway TBH though even if it isnt that which is causing the problem, its all less to go wrong later on

its got me a bit miffed though, it started first thing in the morning from cold first time, ran for 2-3 minutes then point blank refused to start afterwards

DannyBoyTurbo

A little more info that may help.

I have an RPM signal on ecuexplorer. Its reading 25rpm before trying to start and a peak of 305 after cranking. (It stops logging during cranking so I can only give peak figures) Can this rule out crank sensor?

I'm showing a reading on "Fuel Injector #1 Duty" of 0.02% before cranking and between 2-5% during so does this prove the injectors are opening?

Temp sensor is reading 4 deg C so I assume that can be ruled out.

One thing I have noticed is that "Ignition Timing (degBTDC)" is always reading 10. If this the cam sensor shouldn't this be constantly changing?

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

That is all normal.

DannyBoyTurbo

Although I've had the battery on charge constantly since this first happened and the charger says its fully charged the cranking speed seems be getting slower and its stopping turning at all after 2 or 3 turns now. I'm now thinking its something more serious like cambelt slipped and this bogging down is the valves hitting.

Is there an easy way to check this without pulling it apart? I've taken off the n/s camcover and the belt is at least still there and seems tight.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

compression test will show if belt had jumped but would need full charge in battery to do it.. removing all the covers would perhaps be easier.

you said "surely if it was immobiliser it wouldn't fire at all".. so is it trying when you crank it? do you have spark and fuel?

The rpm in the log indicated you have a crank signal.

Simon

DannyBoyTurbo

yeah its trying to fire but only seems to be 1 in 4 cycles if that makes sense.

I haven't removed the plugs yet to check spark but there is fuel going to the rails (it fills a jar in 2-3 cranks). Not 100% sure the injectors are getting the signal but I am seeing that 4-5% "Fuel Injector #1 Duty".

DannyBoyTurbo

Hi guys,

I've still had no joy with this car. Luckily I've had my nice reliable Cerbera to drive about in through all this snow :laugh:

Finally had a warm'ish dry day today so took another look.

I removed one of the coil packs and put an old plug in and there is definitely a good spark.

I also removed one of the injector plugs and stuck a multimeter in the plug and it was flicking between 00.00 and --.-- while cranking so I assume they're getting some sort of signal?

I'm now pretty sure its unrelated to the alarm as there is no sign of either starter, fuel or spark not working.

I've pulled off the n/side cam cover and the pulley wheels are at least lined up. I'll strip it down more when I get some more dry daylight.

I assume we can rule out the ignition amplifier as there's a spark but wheres this air bypass valve?

Thanks
Danny

DannyBoyTurbo

Any more ideas on this one guys?

Anyway I got a spanner on the crank last night and although its quite tight all the way round (EJ25 short motor has only done 1000miles) it seems to turn round smoothly enough.

I also took the other side cam cover off and the marks all line up perfectly on all four cam pulleys. Is this enoughf to rule out the belt slipping or could the crank sproket be were its out?

Failing that I'm still unable to find any info on the original error code... Air assist injector thingamyjig. Anyone know any more about what this is and if could cause this.

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

re the cam belt timing - if you take the crank sensor out,you can just see the mark on the crank gear/oil pump with the aid of a torch.

Mick

bugeyeandy

This may sound daft but have you tried a fresh battery.
Check the earth connection for the engine too, just use a jump lead from the block to the chassis to rule out a fault with that.

DannyBoyTurbo

Here's a shot of the crank sprocket through the crank sensor hole.

What ya think?



Obviously the belts were in the correct position when the above pic was taken.




Bugeyeandy- Yes, tried a fresh battery and have checked earths etc No joy though.

Beardy

Have you checked other side of engine to check that is in time also?

I had same prob, 1 side was fine other side was out.

DannyBoyTurbo

Finally found it.

When turning the engine over again with a spanner I noticed the top left cam pully was sticking out slightly. I then realised to my horror that there was no allen bolt holding the sprocket on.

I first thought I must've left this out when I built the engine but I eventually found the bolt laying beneath the car sheared off. It must've dropped out when I pulled the cam cover off that side.

Could this have been anything other over tighning the bolt when fitting?

I'll try and drill out whats left of the bolt and refit the sproket and cam belt and see what we get although I won't hold my breath.

Its not looking good I know but i'm pleased I finally found it. Thanks for everyones help.

bugeyeandy

Fingers crossed for you mate, glad you found the cause at last.