HOT HOT HOT
16 January 2009, 12:14 PM
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HOT HOT HOT
Alright guys im new here so all your help s greatly appreciated. Anyway i have a 1995 classic uk impreza turbo. It seems to be runing hot temp guage sitting at mid point but heaters are blistering my face when theyre on. Checked radiator hoses and top 1 is hot and bottom one is stone cold radiator feels warm as though some coolant maybe getting through? Also top hose seems to be quite firm to squeeze and does bottom hose. Checked oil for water contamination and cant see any bur resevoir bottle was too hot to take cap off to check that. Any ideas anyone? 
16 January 2009, 12:19 PM
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There are a couple of things that could be wrong, radiator is on its way out or an air block in the cooling system.
You need to check the oil cap for white mayonaise type substance which is a sure sign of head gasket failure, and check the coolant when the engine is cold, there should be no oily film on it.
Also when the engine is cold, leave the top off the coolant tank, start the car up and let her run a little, then rev gently, if you get water coming out of the coolant tank you have a problem
Tony
You need to check the oil cap for white mayonaise type substance which is a sure sign of head gasket failure, and check the coolant when the engine is cold, there should be no oily film on it.
Also when the engine is cold, leave the top off the coolant tank, start the car up and let her run a little, then rev gently, if you get water coming out of the coolant tank you have a problem
Tony
16 January 2009, 01:08 PM
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check fluid levels, then if there ok sounds like something as simple as possible airlock.
if needs be get it to a specialist for them to have a look see, if you want to go down the safe route
if needs be get it to a specialist for them to have a look see, if you want to go down the safe route
16 January 2009, 01:34 PM
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Ok just checked oil filler cap and resevoir cap and no signs of oil/water mix anywhere? Think it must have an air lock or blocked radiator as coolant comes out of reservoir when you stop revving the engine with the cap off.
16 January 2009, 04:38 PM
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Sounds like an air block or it still could be a little more serious than that, you shouldnt get any water coming out of the resevoir, only air forces it out
If you have a methane meter (probably not) you can test the coolant tank for any being given off (methane comes from oil mixing with the water).
Tony
If you have a methane meter (probably not) you can test the coolant tank for any being given off (methane comes from oil mixing with the water).
Tony
16 January 2009, 04:43 PM
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16 January 2009, 06:01 PM
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I have same problem, been chasing ghosts for ages. Car never overheats and temp gauge stays at normal position. So far I have replaced the temp sender, thermostat, ive back flushed the whole system and changed the coolant.
water pump defo working as can see water flowing through the header tank if run without the cap on and the air coming through the heater seems to be just as warm as it has always been.
but when I changed the coolant I replaced it with bright pink stuff and now I can see a little witness mark on the radiator where it has been leaking under pressure so this is my next target a new rad, where can I get a cheap one?
water pump defo working as can see water flowing through the header tank if run without the cap on and the air coming through the heater seems to be just as warm as it has always been.
but when I changed the coolant I replaced it with bright pink stuff and now I can see a little witness mark on the radiator where it has been leaking under pressure so this is my next target a new rad, where can I get a cheap one?
16 January 2009, 06:23 PM
#11
Hi lads i have a simular prob after puting a bigger tubo on . There was to much pressure on a old 135000 miler so it blew the head gasgit there was no oil contamination 
just a pressering water system when on boost. Maybe try this,repace the hose that come from to neck of the header tank with one that can reach your window screen then take it for a blast 3rd gear on boost is best and if your screen gets spashed with coolant it will be your head gasgit, Try this because what was happening to mine was the water was blowing off into the bottle in the wing and then draining off in the wheel arch and you dont get to see it.
This is only what happend to me i hope its not your problem but by doing this it will illiminate it.
Hope this was of some help
i have a simular prob after puting a bigger tubo on . There was to much pressure on a old 135000 miler so it blew the head gasgit there was no oil contamination just a pressering water system when on boost. Maybe try this,repace the hose that come from to neck of the header tank with one that can reach your window screen then take it for a blast 3rd gear on boost is best and if your screen gets spashed with coolant it will be your head gasgit, Try this because what was happening to mine was the water was blowing off into the bottle in the wing and then draining off in the wheel arch and you dont get to see it. This is only what happend to me i hope its not your problem but by doing this it will illiminate it.
Hope this was of some help
16 January 2009, 08:31 PM
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OK guage just shows normal running temp but heaters melt your face when they're on. top hose is hot bottom hose is cold radiator is cold too. Both top and bottom hoses are hard to squeeze when engine is running. And it is blowing coolant into the engine bay. It is running a td04 turbo which has been on for about 5 years i think. What about water pump could this be the cause???
17 January 2009, 02:09 PM
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OK guage just shows normal running temp but heaters melt your face when they're on. top hose is hot bottom hose is cold radiator is cold too. Both top and bottom hoses are hard to squeeze when engine is running. And it is blowing coolant into the engine bay. It is running a td04 turbo which has been on for about 5 years i think. What about water pump could this be the cause???
So basically the water is sucked down around the engine and comes back in at the top, if there is air getting into the system, revving then coming off will force the air to expand, expanding means displacement, displacement means water out of the expansion tank.
It should not push any water out of the tank with the cap off normally, so you have air in your system
Its either the head gasket thats going/gone, or a pipe has a hairline crack in it, and the most likely suspect is one of those on the radiator.
Its a garage job whichever one it is anyway
Tony
17 January 2009, 05:47 PM
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Well looks like its going in the garage for head gaskets replaced so moght as well replace timing belt and water pump. Dont think clutch has long left either so while the engine is out that might as well be done too. Looks like i've got a very large bill coming my way very soon 
17 January 2009, 07:29 PM
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Well looks like its going in the garage for head gaskets replaced so moght as well replace timing belt and water pump. Dont think clutch has long left either so while the engine is out that might as well be done too. Looks like i've got a very large bill coming my way very soon
)Tony
17 January 2009, 08:54 PM
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Lol had same problem too a few months back,same trouble top hose hot bottom hose cold.had to replace 2 of the little rad hoses under the car because was split,well actually the one hose split,replaced that,then the other hose split a few hours later,so had to replace all the coolant again,wasn't ammusing lol.If you leave the cap off the header tank when running the engine,and reapeatedly squeeze the bottom rad hose,you will probably see air bubbles coming out of the header tank,also a good idea to have your heaters blowing when trying to get rid of an airlock.Had no problems since with mine.
17 January 2009, 10:36 PM
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I have just delt with this problem twice.
First culprit was the top rad hose had a tiny split just before the jub clip, replaced top and bottom hose, blead system, and got it sniff tested and pressure tested both come back ok
2nd one was a split in the tiny inlet hose on the oil cooler, replaced this and blead the system agian, and all sorted.
Both these faults had caused air to get into the system whilst losing some coolant at same time, and the fact these hoses where prob the original hoses they'd past there sell by date.
I would bleed the system first, then once done take it to a garage and get it pressure tested and a sniffer test done, costs roughly £30.
If you would like me to post up how to bleed the system just let me know
First culprit was the top rad hose had a tiny split just before the jub clip, replaced top and bottom hose, blead system, and got it sniff tested and pressure tested both come back ok
2nd one was a split in the tiny inlet hose on the oil cooler, replaced this and blead the system agian, and all sorted.
Both these faults had caused air to get into the system whilst losing some coolant at same time, and the fact these hoses where prob the original hoses they'd past there sell by date.
I would bleed the system first, then once done take it to a garage and get it pressure tested and a sniffer test done, costs roughly £30.
If you would like me to post up how to bleed the system just let me know
18 January 2009, 08:22 AM
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Hi pitchblack, Yes please could you post up how to bleed the system and where can I buy a full set of hoses for my car? Silicone or standard anything will do just to eliminate them.
18 January 2009, 12:07 PM
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The way I was told to bleed the system was.
please be aware that whilst doing this, the rad fans can come on at any time, so keep your left hand away from that area
Have engine running and warmed up, with blowers on full and heating on full.
top up header tank, leaving cap off.
You now have to squeeze bottom rad hose, you will see air coming out of header tank aswell as coolant, you will have to keep topping header tank up, when you first start squeezin bottom hose there should be alot of big bubbles come out, this will then drop to little bubbles of air.
This can take 1min todo or 30mins, depends what mood the car is in lol
You need to keep an eye on temp gauge, if heaters are blowing cold there'll still be air in system.
The first time I did mine I'd changed the thermostat aswell as the hoses, as unsure how old thermo was.
Richy-p you can get hoses from most good performance shops, the likes of revolution247.com or ASperformance, both these are in north east, also demontweeks, go for the likes of samco/sfs, ebay turns them up, but avoid the cheap ones.
PS if unsure on any of it just let me know
please be aware that whilst doing this, the rad fans can come on at any time, so keep your left hand away from that area
Have engine running and warmed up, with blowers on full and heating on full.
top up header tank, leaving cap off.
You now have to squeeze bottom rad hose, you will see air coming out of header tank aswell as coolant, you will have to keep topping header tank up, when you first start squeezin bottom hose there should be alot of big bubbles come out, this will then drop to little bubbles of air.
This can take 1min todo or 30mins, depends what mood the car is in lol
You need to keep an eye on temp gauge, if heaters are blowing cold there'll still be air in system.
The first time I did mine I'd changed the thermostat aswell as the hoses, as unsure how old thermo was.
Richy-p you can get hoses from most good performance shops, the likes of revolution247.com or ASperformance, both these are in north east, also demontweeks, go for the likes of samco/sfs, ebay turns them up, but avoid the cheap ones.
PS if unsure on any of it just let me know
18 January 2009, 01:36 PM
#22
Richy, same symptoms as me - see here, post # 15!...
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/738730-high-knock-reading-commander.html
6 things it could be (again like me): airlock, stuck stat, knackered water pump, blocked rad, blockage in engine, head gaske
Based on my experience on Friday, get your car upto temp. Then keep it idling for about 10mins - does the bottom hose start to get warm? If not then most probably a stuck stat or possibly a broken water pump turbine/worn blades! If you feel the hose get hot then those two items are working okay enough for coolant to flow through the block, etc.
Next, fill up a 5 litre petrol can of boiling water and go buy a litre of antifreeze. Bung in a measuring jug and filling funnel too.
Now go on a hoon round the block near to your home (no more than a 5 mile radius) using max boost from time to time. Do this for at least 20mins keeping a hawk's eye on you temp gauge - especially when slowing down/crawling/idling (try not to get caught in traffic!). If it rapidly moves from normal middle to vertical, pull over somewhere safe and shut down. Pop bonnet and check the battery tray - is it really wet with coolant? If so, the high temp has caused the pressure cap to open and expanded coolant to be ejected via the expansion bottle's vent...
Is the bottom hose back to being stone cold? Is the coolant in the expansion bottle (if there's any present!) rapidly bubbling away?
Now, using a thick cloth, slowly release the pressure by gradually opening the header tank cap but don't open fully - just let all the prssure escape. When it's all released then turn it back to close. Then unsrew again and remove. Is the header tank half full or nothing in it at all?! Stick your hooter in the opening - does it smell of horrible pungent combustion gases instead of sweet coolant?! If so, head gasket failure! When on boost it's pressurising the system, causing a big airlock, hence all these above described symptoms...
Wait for temp gaauge to come back down to about 1/4 way, then make 50/50 mix of antifreeze/hot water and retop up up the header tank (typically you will have probably lost about a litre). then carefully limp home off boost - keeping a close eye on temp gauge.
In the mornings/after work, check and top up coolant as necessary before starting the car - you'll be able to drive the car like this (off-boost, obviously) until the HGs are fixed - monitor temp gauge closely all the time though.
Book car in for head gasket replacemant... or sell the car...
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/738730-high-knock-reading-commander.html
6 things it could be (again like me): airlock, stuck stat, knackered water pump, blocked rad, blockage in engine, head gaske
Based on my experience on Friday, get your car upto temp. Then keep it idling for about 10mins - does the bottom hose start to get warm? If not then most probably a stuck stat or possibly a broken water pump turbine/worn blades! If you feel the hose get hot then those two items are working okay enough for coolant to flow through the block, etc.
Next, fill up a 5 litre petrol can of boiling water and go buy a litre of antifreeze. Bung in a measuring jug and filling funnel too.
Now go on a hoon round the block near to your home (no more than a 5 mile radius) using max boost from time to time. Do this for at least 20mins keeping a hawk's eye on you temp gauge - especially when slowing down/crawling/idling (try not to get caught in traffic!). If it rapidly moves from normal middle to vertical, pull over somewhere safe and shut down. Pop bonnet and check the battery tray - is it really wet with coolant? If so, the high temp has caused the pressure cap to open and expanded coolant to be ejected via the expansion bottle's vent...
Is the bottom hose back to being stone cold? Is the coolant in the expansion bottle (if there's any present!) rapidly bubbling away?
Now, using a thick cloth, slowly release the pressure by gradually opening the header tank cap but don't open fully - just let all the prssure escape. When it's all released then turn it back to close. Then unsrew again and remove. Is the header tank half full or nothing in it at all?! Stick your hooter in the opening - does it smell of horrible pungent combustion gases instead of sweet coolant?! If so, head gasket failure! When on boost it's pressurising the system, causing a big airlock, hence all these above described symptoms...
Wait for temp gaauge to come back down to about 1/4 way, then make 50/50 mix of antifreeze/hot water and retop up up the header tank (typically you will have probably lost about a litre). then carefully limp home off boost - keeping a close eye on temp gauge.
In the mornings/after work, check and top up coolant as necessary before starting the car - you'll be able to drive the car like this (off-boost, obviously) until the HGs are fixed - monitor temp gauge closely all the time though.
Book car in for head gasket replacemant... or sell the car...
Last edited by joz8968; 18 January 2009 at 01:41 PM.
18 January 2009, 06:10 PM
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The way I was told to bleed the system was.
please be aware that whilst doing this, the rad fans can come on at any time, so keep your left hand away from that area
Have engine running and warmed up, with blowers on full and heating on full.
top up header tank, leaving cap off.
You now have to squeeze bottom rad hose, you will see air coming out of header tank aswell as coolant, you will have to keep topping header tank up, when you first start squeezin bottom hose there should be alot of big bubbles come out, this will then drop to little bubbles of air.
This can take 1min todo or 30mins, depends what mood the car is in lol
You need to keep an eye on temp gauge, if heaters are blowing cold there'll still be air in system.
The first time I did mine I'd changed the thermostat aswell as the hoses, as unsure how old thermo was.
Richy-p you can get hoses from most good performance shops, the likes of revolution247.com or ASperformance, both these are in north east, also demontweeks, go for the likes of samco/sfs, ebay turns them up, but avoid the cheap ones.
PS if unsure on any of it just let me know
please be aware that whilst doing this, the rad fans can come on at any time, so keep your left hand away from that area
Have engine running and warmed up, with blowers on full and heating on full.
top up header tank, leaving cap off.
You now have to squeeze bottom rad hose, you will see air coming out of header tank aswell as coolant, you will have to keep topping header tank up, when you first start squeezin bottom hose there should be alot of big bubbles come out, this will then drop to little bubbles of air.
This can take 1min todo or 30mins, depends what mood the car is in lol
You need to keep an eye on temp gauge, if heaters are blowing cold there'll still be air in system.
The first time I did mine I'd changed the thermostat aswell as the hoses, as unsure how old thermo was.
Richy-p you can get hoses from most good performance shops, the likes of revolution247.com or ASperformance, both these are in north east, also demontweeks, go for the likes of samco/sfs, ebay turns them up, but avoid the cheap ones.
PS if unsure on any of it just let me know
22 January 2009, 04:00 PM
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Thanks for all the help from you guys but had car checked over and it turns out to be a busted radiator. Its leaking from the plastic end on the drivers side so its cost me £90 for a new radiator. 
31 January 2009, 07:14 PM
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Still havin a Nightmare guys, I have replaced the radiator and cured that then I snapped top hose on header tank so I have now replaced that but still having a problem. It is still losing coolant and blowing steam under the bonnet. It looks like it is coming form under turbo or very near but I cannot see without stripping it out. Any of you guys had anything like this happen? Its got my head battered 
31 January 2009, 08:56 PM
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I think its the h/g
I had the same problem with my motor recently i have put a thread coolant coming out when hot the motor is now back out have alook
01 February 2009, 08:56 AM
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Hi guys rang a local guy who only deals with scoobys he said it was all the coolant on the heat wrap on the exhaust told me to do a 10 mile blast out in the car and it will clear up so took it up the A1 for about 20 miles to be sure got home and all clear now just need to get out and check it over this morning but hopefully all is well again!
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