what is modified on a modified oil pump?

ebay jobbies any good or steer clear?

 

Normally the PRV is changed and spring shim stack is changed/altered.

 

prv????

ones on ebay say they have changed/uprated the spring.

worth buying or avoid??

suggest anyone that sells them?? cheapish lol

 

API is 1st port of call normally

 

Graham Goode Racing

Subaru engine failures are often caused by poor lubrication, and it is our opinion that the oil pump design is a possible cause. This oil pump incorporates a number of subtle modifications, solving these problems.

£119.14 + VAT (£139.99)
At the heart of all Roger Clark Motorsport engine’s is the now world renowned RCMS Modified oil pump. This clever, effective modification has been designed to assist the Impreza with it’s oil supply and is now regarded as a must have modification with any Impreza engine build. Each pump is carefully checked, given a serial number and then modified to incorporate a different pressure relief valve ensuring greater reliability and peace of mind to your Impreza engine.
Please note that flow rate remains unchanged.

When fitting a new pump, it is recommend that you fit new oil seals SGA38 and SGA36. It is also recommended that you use 3 bond sealer SGA35 to seal the oil pump to the block assembly.
Cost: £149.00 this might help you mate,

 

PRV = Pressure relief valve

 

£100.00 + postage and VAT for a proper handbuilt, guaranteed pump. NOT Ebay cr*p which is purely price driven and may or may not be anything special. BEWARE.

We have also just changed one on an engine for a customer that had sourced all its parts from the USA. Their idea of a modded pump was to use the 9mm gear version.

ALL APi and RCM and G Goode are at least 10mm gears and we all also do 12mm gear type pumps if you need the extra flow rate for Avics [ variable valve timing ]

David APi

Agents for:
Simtek, the most exciting new Ecu for years
Buddy Club exhausts
Scoobysportexhausts
Eibach suspension
Hybrid front mount intercooler kits
AP Racing brakes and clutches
And of course; the well known APi Performance Exedy organic clutch

www.apiengines.com

01926 614333

 

i had one of david's from api fitted about a month ago. does the job well and the fact its painted red makes the engine look nicer

 

David, how long does it take you - or would it take Zen/RCM - to fit one of your pumps?

Would the 10mm geared version be the correct one for a MY93 JDM WRX saloon (GC8A48D)?

Do you also offer a refundable surcharge service, upon the customer returning you their old one, for a cheaper overall net price than that quoted?

Thanks

John

 

I doubt RCM or Zen would want to fit one of our pumps they'd probably prefer to fit their own.

BUT it is a bit more work than a cam belt job so 3 hours = £144.00 here + VAT of course.

You might as well fit a new cam belt while you're in there. So add £48.00 + VAT for a Gates belt. Neither us, nor any other respectable tuner would take responsibility for the belt, if we had to use a secondhand one - even if it is only a few weeks old.

We would allow £25.00 against an old pump assuming that it was in good reconditionable condition, AND 10mm type. It would be our decision. You might have a 9mm on an old car, as I am unsure when they changed.

Most Leggy single turbos are 9mm pumps of that age and the basis of the early Impreza engine lends a lot to the Leggy engine.

Good Luck Call if I can help - David APi

 

LOL. For sure.


Would fitting the 10mm one be better i.e considered an upgrade, if my car did indeed have the 9mm gear? Or MUST you replace like with like for the pump to be working correctly in its respective engine, regardless?

 

10mm will be an upgrade if you are on a 9mm. So real benefit there. The 10mmm flows something in the order of 9 gallons a minute, The 9mm will flow somewhat less.

No need to replace like for like, in fact we don't keep 9 mm pumps anyway, as there is no need.

David

 

Great. Thanks for that.

 

dave api you have pm, need pump asap.

 

I just ordered one from you for my 2003 WRX - great price guys! I was looking at a shade more for a standard one until I read this post! Didin't know about the £25 against my old pump tho - can I still take you up on that once I get it out? Is mine a 10mm if it's OEM one?

 

Sure can, We'll look it over when it arrives and if it is acceptable to go into the rebuild system, then we'll be happy to allow you £25.00 on it.

Good luck - Thanks for the order, David

 

hi david i have an 05 sti and thinking of upgrading the oil pump what version should i be looking to get 10mm or 12mm? cars running 400bhp so just looking to add some more piece of mind

thanks

 

Hi all
I had my belts/ chains done in june and it never occured to me to have the oil pump changed as well. Im on 134000 odd miles and have no idea what vintage the pump is. Is it an expensive job to have done regardless of the purchase price of the pump itself?

 

Ginger, It is something we have been offering for years, when we do the cam belt change. The cross headed contersunk screws that hold the back of the pump on, have a habit of coming loose.

On a Classic they are rarely loose at the first cam belt service, BUT nearly always are at the second cam belt service. So I would expect that yours are loose.

When they loosen, there is an opportunity for the oil pressure to leech out of the side of the pump rather than all go through into the engine oil galleries. NOT good.

If we did it here, it is a 3 hour job; So £135.00 + VAT labour and a pump as above. The pump includes the new seal and the block O ring.

We only charge an extra hour labour to change the pump when we do the cam belt. The cam belt job is £199.00 + 15% VAT [ at Gordons new friendly rate ] including the belt. Tensioner extra if required.

I would recommend getting it done for peace of mind, as it will now start to worry you.

Good luck - call if we can help, David APi

 

Hiya if your car has avics [ variable valve timing ] heads then it will have the 12 mm pump and we only offer that as a modified pump an a new basis rather than as blueprinted, rebuilt pumps. A higher price is inevitable.

08 STI Hatchback pumps appear to be different again.

I do not have enough mileage data to advise whether the offending screws will start to loosen on a 12mm and the rest of the blueprint job will depend upon how serious Fuji have been about deburring all the moving parts to prevent seizure of the oil pressure plunger, which is another thing that can happen.

APi pumps have all working surfaces micro polished and the oil galleries are ported and flowed to increase oil flow to optimum, within the delivery rate that the gears provide.

Any help to you ??


David APi

 

hi david i prosume mine has avics as the top left and right pulleys on the cambelt (intake valves) stick out in the centre of the pulley and they have a 3 bolt triangle cover also have what look like crank sensors over the pulleys have i prosumed right?

if it is then what puzzles me is the pump has 10 stamped on it so i guess it's a 10mm oil pump so has the engine got the wrong pump on it?
as this would make sense maybe as it's aways had low oil pressure at idle 750rpm at 80degrees its around 1.5 bar now could that be a reason as from reading the 12mm has a higher flow rate so if its ment to have a 12 and has a 10 could that effect the oil pressure?

thanks david in advance for the answers as there greatly appreciated

 

Warning - dumb question time.

David I was under the impression that all newage STi's had avics. What determines whether you have or not, and can you tell without removing parts?

 

Hi David

Just to throw the cat among the pigeons, Is there any risk in running a 12mm pump on a non avcs engine? Does it cause over pressurising because of to much volume and then cause the pressure relief valve to work overtime?

 

btt for answers

 

1.5 bar at idle is not a problem so dont worry mate.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#8 (permalink)
Nige, Don't worry too much.

I have copied the following directly from the Subaru wkshop manual.

BTW (14.5 psi = 1 Bar)



Start the engine, and then measure the oil pressure.

Oil pressure:

98 kPa (1.0 kg/cm2, 14 psi) or more at 800 rpm
294 kPa (3.0 kg/cm2, 43 psi) or more at 5,000
rpm

• If the oil pressure is out of specification, check oil
pump, oil filter and lubrication line. <Ref. to
LU(H4DOTC)-21, INSPECTION, Engine Lubrication
System Trouble in General.>
• If the oil pressure warning light is turned ON and
oil pressure is in specification, replace the oil pressure
switch. <Ref. to LU(H4DOTC)-21, INSPECTION,
Engine Lubrication System Trouble in
General.>
NOTE:
The specified data is based on an engine oil temperature
of 80°C (176°F).
5) After measuring the oil pressure, install the oil
pressure switch. <Ref. to LU(H4DOTC)-18, INSTALLATION,
Oil Pressure Switch.>
Tightening torque:
25 N·

 

Your pump pressure is fine no need to concern yourself.

I think that there is a change late-on in the hawkeye range where the 12 mm pump supercedes the previous. I expect that Fuji identified a potential problem and upgraded the pumps as a matter of course. A guess, but it is a good one. Maybe the 12mm starts from the hatchback STi's ??

I wouldn't bother to upgrade to 12mm from 10mm unless you had a specific problem. As a fresh build and with a car with an oil cooler, where there is up to another litre of oil in the system, it would be an idea to have increased flow to make better use of the available oil. The a 12mm would / should be fitted.

Pressure won't change from 10mm to 12mm, but flow capacity will.

That help? David APi

 

Dumb reply time.

I was under the impression that bug eye STI type UK was not Avics - but I do not know for sure. I see many, many, more imports than UK cars here.

Some one will tell us. Hopefully they will know and not guess.

David APi

 

Nah, it'll be fine. The pressure relief valve is in the pump so presumably it has been upgraded to match.

David APi

 

Pump arrived promptly and is a cool red colour too! Thx David. I got a crank seal with it but do I need another seal too? Or do you fit one to the pump before sending it. Just want to know I have everything before we start the job.
Anyone got any tips or things to be careful of when changing the pump? My m8 doing it is a mechanic but I wanted to "help" so I can learn something lol (I will end up making tea and holding torches I bet)

 

You should have received a pump with a NEW brown front crank seal fitted already and an loose O ring for the block gallery seal. Correct? That is all you need to fit it.

A SMALL amount of sealer on the O ring

Prime the pump with oil before fitting. The disconnect the cam angle sensor and spin the engine over to establish oil pressure before starting.

Good luck, Thanks for your custom - David