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Is it as easy at it looks?

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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 01:29 PM
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Default Is it as easy at it looks?

When I bought my 205GTi, I had a cracked front no. plate. So bought two new ones, correct sizes etc, and stuck them on with some thick double sided tape. Rear is fine as it has a flat surface to hold onto. However the front one is gradually peeling away, so I'd like to screw it on and not bodge it up.

This may sound trivial but I've not done this before. Got a couple of questions about it, if anyone can assist

Firstly, is it just a case of marking up the holes and drilling through the no. plate into the front bumper?

Secondly, can I use any normal household screws, or do I need special anti rust ones or whatever - silly i know

And lastly, what the legal requirements? Do they have to be away from the letters/numbers or a certain colour/size? Last thing I need is the rozzers pulling me 'cos I've put the screws in the wrong place.

Help appreciated, thanks
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 04:38 PM
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Using screws will depend on what you are screwing into. I'd be inclined to try warming the plate first to try and curve it to shape so it sticks better, then use more sticky pads.

If you have to drill it, you can buy coloured covers for the screws from most motor factors, you should NOT drill it in any way that will alter what the letters/numbers say, that's asking for a pull.

When drilling it, use a sharp drill and place the plate face-up on a piece of wood so that the back is supported to avoid cracking and tearing of the backing. A light centre pop on the plate will stop the drill wandering, if you haven't a centre punch use a sharp screw.

Screws I would use would be self-tappers even into plastic, but don't overtighten, and the coarser the thread the better. You can get stainless ones from Screwfix or local bolt and nut stockists, try Yell.com the UK's local search engine - search for UK businesses.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tanyatriangles
Using screws will depend on what you are screwing into. I'd be inclined to try warming the plate first to try and curve it to shape so it sticks better, then use more sticky pads.

If you have to drill it, you can buy coloured covers for the screws from most motor factors, you should NOT drill it in any way that will alter what the letters/numbers say, that's asking for a pull.

When drilling it, use a sharp drill and place the plate face-up on a piece of wood so that the back is supported to avoid cracking and tearing of the backing. A light centre pop on the plate will stop the drill wandering, if you haven't a centre punch use a sharp screw.

Screws I would use would be self-tappers even into plastic, but don't overtighten, and the coarser the thread the better. You can get stainless ones from Screwfix or local bolt and nut stockists, try Yell.com the UK's local search engine - search for UK businesses.
Thanks for that. Just this minute a gentleman has knocked on my door. Commented that my car was looking nice etc, but my no. plate was on the floor. Looks like the last of the tape gave way earlier. Thing is, I have to drive the car tomorrow morning, so I'm gonna have to pop the no. plate in the windscreen until I can screw it in.

Can I ask for you to explain what course screws and self tappers are please?

I'll probably drill the white bit's of the no. plate so will need white cover bits.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 08:59 PM
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Think I have found what I need

Halfords Number Plate Screws and Cap from Halfords Price £1.79

Still expensive for what it is but will look neat and tidy at least.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 09:14 PM
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They do thick and thin double sided tape for number plates, so why don't you use the thick on the ends and the thin in the middle.
Paul.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul666
They do thick and thin double sided tape for number plates, so why don't you use the thick on the ends and the thin in the middle.
Paul.
Tried that, and the water seems to seep inside. Because on my car there is no proper mounting place (the indentation is totally the wrong size ), it makes it difficult to have a good panel to press it onto.

Gonna get one of these little kits me thinks as it includes the covers for the screws. Just have to measure it right so the white bits dont go onto the black lettering
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by chocolate_o_brian
Tried that, and the water seems to seep inside. Because on my car there is no proper mounting place (the indentation is totally the wrong size ), it makes it difficult to have a good panel to press it onto.

Gonna get one of these little kits me thinks as it includes the covers for the screws. Just have to measure it right so the white bits dont go onto the black lettering
Motor World (and Halfords I would have thought) do little boxes of all-plastic nuts and 'bolts'. They come as an assortment of white, black and yellowy-amber. The white and black are obviously for the front plate (so should you HAVE to drill through a character on the plate, simply use a black nut and bolt. The yellow ones are obviously for the rear (once again use black if drilled through a character). These are better IMHO, as you don't have to worry about the little colored cap falling off later on... and exposing the rusty screwhead (lol) underneath.

The 'bolts' have a slot in the head for a screwdriver. So you hold the nut at the rear of the plate with your fingers, molegrips, spanner etc., whilst turning the 'bolt' with the screwdriver.

I have 'em on my plates and they look 'invisible'...... ish
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 12:00 AM
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A tube sikaflex or tiger seal will work wonders! Much better than tape! I use the sikaflex to hold the skirts on the RA, strong stuff!
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