3 cylinders
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3 cylinders
Hey guys, ive just bought a 96 sti and after driving the 350+ miles home (im a storm i might add), its now only firing on 3. on tickover it sounds fine, perfect idle speed and sounds like its firing on all 4 (i could be wrong), but as soon as you pull away, it will only fire on 3. when I first noticed the problem, if i feathered the throttle between 2-4000rpm it would hesitate and splutter, but fine when the boost kicked in (ran on 4). If left on idle now, every now and again the idle will lower itself by 200rpm, when i give it a few revs to bring it up again it does the spluttering thing.
its had new coilpacks etc 6 months ago, the only thing i can think of is either its got something to do with the storm, or the bog standard unleaded i had to put in it to get it home (there was no higher octane in the middle of nowhere when i picked it up)
any advice would be much appreciated, im pretty gutted!!
its running 1 bar with front mount, blitz bov, exhaust, filter.
its had new coilpacks etc 6 months ago, the only thing i can think of is either its got something to do with the storm, or the bog standard unleaded i had to put in it to get it home (there was no higher octane in the middle of nowhere when i picked it up)
any advice would be much appreciated, im pretty gutted!!
its running 1 bar with front mount, blitz bov, exhaust, filter.
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With it being an sti it will require higher octane fuel (assuming it hasnt been remapped).
Is it making any kind of knocking noises etc?
if you have give it some beans on the trip back on the unleaded then you could possibly have caused some damage
Is it making any kind of knocking noises etc?
if you have give it some beans on the trip back on the unleaded then you could possibly have caused some damage
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No knocking, although i havent come on boost since i lost a cylinder. It was pretty much a steady 50-60mph all the way home due to the bad weather, only coming on boost a few times and not going anywhere near the redline. When I get in from work this afternoon im going to put in some better petrol, reset the ecu and go from there. cheers guys, ill post up what i find!
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23 - MAF
24 - idle air control soleniod
22 - knock sensor
32 - o2 sensor
Does anyone know what this is going to cost me? Im rather skint after buying the car and insuring it!
Havent even driven the thing properly yet
Edit: one of my friends said a boost leak could cause all these problems? I do have some suspect pipes in there, would it be worth having a look? It seems a bit strange these all come along at once
24 - idle air control soleniod
22 - knock sensor
32 - o2 sensor
Does anyone know what this is going to cost me? Im rather skint after buying the car and insuring it!
Havent even driven the thing properly yet
Edit: one of my friends said a boost leak could cause all these problems? I do have some suspect pipes in there, would it be worth having a look? It seems a bit strange these all come along at once
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after resetting the ecu, i drove it for a few mins and just got code 51... neutral position switch. I replaced the sensor with one i ordered from jap performance parts (good service), i reset the ecu and had a little drive, it drives better than before but still gives me code 51, and hesitation low down the rev range after a minute or so of driving. Now for the part i dont understand... i unplug the green connectors but leave the black ones in and turn on the ignition. 22, 23, 24 and 32 now shows up (still), but no 51?
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#8
car miss firing will brng up them codes, there all to do with fueling.
you'll have got water in somewhere maybe but i would go for a set of plugs. spray plug leads with wd40 put them back on chances are that will fix it
you'll have got water in somewhere maybe but i would go for a set of plugs. spray plug leads with wd40 put them back on chances are that will fix it
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Seems far too coincidental because of the storm. Did you drive through any large puddles?
As mentioned above, the obvious and cheapest first step would be to give all of your coilpacks a liberal coating of WD40 and leave for about an hour. Then try turning the car over.
As mentioned above, the obvious and cheapest first step would be to give all of your coilpacks a liberal coating of WD40 and leave for about an hour. Then try turning the car over.
Last edited by joz8968; 21 November 2008 at 12:01 PM.
#10
best thing to do is let car idle and unplug a coil pack one at a time, if they work the engine idle will change which i'm sure you know.
that might narrow it down to which cylinder.
i had exactly same problem with fault codes, fixed everything but codes still remain.
ended up being a brown relay under the dash that had melted inside.
swapped it over and codes dissapeared without reseting the ecu cars been fine since
that might narrow it down to which cylinder.
i had exactly same problem with fault codes, fixed everything but codes still remain.
ended up being a brown relay under the dash that had melted inside.
swapped it over and codes dissapeared without reseting the ecu cars been fine since
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after resetting the ecu, i drove it for a few mins and just got code 51... neutral position switch. I replaced the sensor with one i ordered from jap performance parts (good service), i reset the ecu and had a little drive, it drives better than before but still gives me code 51, and hesitation low down the rev range after a minute or so of driving. Now for the part i dont understand... i unplug the green connectors but leave the black ones in and turn on the ignition. 22, 23, 24 and 32 now shows up (still), but no 51?
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https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...net-vents.html
...Should make you want to put them back on (If you have removed them of course).
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