Car still Jerking
30 September 2008, 08:48 AM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South Wales
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car still Jerking
Hi guys,
Right had the car back from the garage teh other day, she went in for a service and I had an issue with the car jerking like a misfire at low revs when cold and now and again when cruiseing in 5th gear at bot 50mph, this only happens around 2-2 and a half thousand revs, after speaking to you kind people on here she went in, had the garage check the coil packs, spark plugs etc couldnt find anything wrong with it. Explained to them the problem I had and they said that it could be an air leak maybe from the turbo pipe, thing is when shes on boost shes great, cars a 1996 wrx import with 53000 on the clock.
Anyone have any ideas
Right had the car back from the garage teh other day, she went in for a service and I had an issue with the car jerking like a misfire at low revs when cold and now and again when cruiseing in 5th gear at bot 50mph, this only happens around 2-2 and a half thousand revs, after speaking to you kind people on here she went in, had the garage check the coil packs, spark plugs etc couldnt find anything wrong with it. Explained to them the problem I had and they said that it could be an air leak maybe from the turbo pipe, thing is when shes on boost shes great, cars a 1996 wrx import with 53000 on the clock.
Anyone have any ideas
02 October 2008, 10:03 AM
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South Wales
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
quicky for you guys someone jsut told me that the dump valve ive got maybe the source of the problem, its a bailys dump valve any truth in this?
02 October 2008, 10:16 AM
#4
Being a 1996, your WRX is either a MY96 v.2, or a MY97 v.3
If it's a MY96 v.2, then you need this dump valve...
SUBARU IMPREZA TURBO STANDARD DUMP VALVE on eBay, also, Subaru, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 02-Oct-08 18:30:06 BST)
Or if a MY97 v.3, this one...
Subaru Impreza V3/4 Standard Dump Valve on eBay, also Engine Tuning Parts, Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 04-Oct-08 19:47:38 BST)
That said, either dv can be made to fit between either engine's IC and turbo intakes with suitably sized/shaped rubber/silicone pipework, jubilee clips, etc.
Last edited by joz8968; 03 October 2008 at 11:04 AM.
02 October 2008, 10:40 AM
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South Wales
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah just done it mate all sorted just placed a bid to, i really didnt think that a dump valve would cause that much hassel, my mate had a bailys on his focus rs and had no end of problems with it made the car jerk and cut out, hes the 1 that said that it might be the source of the problem,
Trending Topics
02 October 2008, 10:45 AM
#8
Yeah, it could be the problem but not necessarily.
But when you do get weird hard-to-get-to-the-bottom-of problems like this, it makes sense to return the car back to standard as much as is possible, to get back some kind of baseline control. That way, at a stroke, you're ruling out any 'mistakes' with fitting non-OEM stuff, and also stuff that simply might not be working correctly anyway (which is obviously what we're trying to achieve)
But when you do get weird hard-to-get-to-the-bottom-of problems like this, it makes sense to return the car back to standard as much as is possible, to get back some kind of baseline control. That way, at a stroke, you're ruling out any 'mistakes' with fitting non-OEM stuff, and also stuff that simply might not be working correctly anyway (which is obviously what we're trying to achieve)
Last edited by joz8968; 02 October 2008 at 11:01 AM.
06 October 2008, 02:40 PM
#12
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South Wales
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi guys again,
Right fitted the standard recirculation dump valve back on the scoob, problem is, shes still jerking badly when cold at bout 2 thousand revs just as shes coming onto boost and no and again around the same rev range when shes running, anyone have anymore ideas as shes going back into the garage 2day to find out what wrong with her?
Right fitted the standard recirculation dump valve back on the scoob, problem is, shes still jerking badly when cold at bout 2 thousand revs just as shes coming onto boost and no and again around the same rev range when shes running, anyone have anymore ideas as shes going back into the garage 2day to find out what wrong with her?
06 October 2008, 03:02 PM
#13
Next thing to check would be condition of coil packs/HT leads and spark plugs. Could be the MAF but probably unlikely.
EDIT: Oops sorry, you've already mentioned in post #1 that the garage has already checked
EDIT: Oops sorry, you've already mentioned in post #1 that the garage has already checked
Last edited by joz8968; 06 October 2008 at 03:06 PM.
06 October 2008, 09:16 PM
#15
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Iv just started having the save problem with my car. Just when the boost starts to come in it jerks like I am pumping the throttle. I also have a dump to air dump valve that came with the car.
Also if I change gear at about 3000 rpm I get a small back fire. The exhaust smells like its running rich
i think this sounds like my MAF
Also if I change gear at about 3000 rpm I get a small back fire. The exhaust smells like its running rich
i think this sounds like my MAF
07 October 2008, 10:42 AM
#16
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South Wales
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah mate as stated the coil packs, spark plugs and leads were all checked and seem to be a-ok, falconer, what you said about your car smells like its running rich and get a small back fire at that rev range its like our cars have been seperated at birth, that the same problems im having but my jerking starts at 1000 revs - 3000 rpm when cold and 2 - 3000rpm when warm, Thing is that I really cant understand is, is that the other night went and picked the misses up from town about a 30 mile round trip jerked a bit on the way down but on the way home with the bailys dump valve on it was fine didnt jerk once, thought great, but next day same problem all over again. Garage said to me this morning that it could be over fueling?
07 October 2008, 01:50 PM
#22
Brand new v.2 ones are about £260 
- but being a 1996, your car could be an early phase 1.5 v.3. That said, I think it has the same large cylindical MAF as the v.1/2 anyway (I think it's only the phase 2 v.5/6 ones that have the much cheaper 'cassette' type MAFs).
Quickest way to reset is to simply disconnect battery for about 1/2 hour (if you're not already au fait with the 'connectors under the steering column' method, that is).
- but being a 1996, your car could be an early phase 1.5 v.3. That said, I think it has the same large cylindical MAF as the v.1/2 anyway (I think it's only the phase 2 v.5/6 ones that have the much cheaper 'cassette' type MAFs).Quickest way to reset is to simply disconnect battery for about 1/2 hour (if you're not already au fait with the 'connectors under the steering column' method, that is).
Last edited by joz8968; 07 October 2008 at 03:16 PM.
07 October 2008, 02:52 PM
#24
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Workington, Cumbria
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Don't have a boost guage yet - just ordered 1 tho sounds like i need 1, my jerking feels as tho it's got something to do with boost.
When accelerating to build up speed feels jerky on the thottle like it's holding back and you've got to punch it to get speed before changing gear it's also gives of a jerk when you hit boost on boost it seems fine
When accelerating to build up speed feels jerky on the thottle like it's holding back and you've got to punch it to get speed before changing gear it's also gives of a jerk when you hit boost on boost it seems fine
07 October 2008, 03:01 PM
#25
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South Wales
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just been on scoobyworlrd now and for a Maf sensor on there its £89 but they only have 99/00 models, As for the resetting of it I have a clifford alarm on the car with a tracker if it is the maf and i do disconnect the battery would this effect the alarm system
07 October 2008, 03:10 PM
#26
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: york
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dont know about the alarm system but your tracker will have a battery back up, Taffy- What year/Ver is it
Ozzy- how much oil you have in it?? and try and drive it with out full pedal, try pushing it just over half. should still pick up well, but hopefully no juder
Ozzy- how much oil you have in it?? and try and drive it with out full pedal, try pushing it just over half. should still pick up well, but hopefully no juder
07 October 2008, 03:24 PM
#29
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: york
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does yours have a boost again Taffy??
What colour sticker is your maf?? guess maybe a Green one
TAFFY- how much oil you have in it?? and try and drive it with out full pedal, try pushing it just over half. should still pick up well, but hopefully no juder
What colour sticker is your maf?? guess maybe a Green one
TAFFY- how much oil you have in it?? and try and drive it with out full pedal, try pushing it just over half. should still pick up well, but hopefully no juder
07 October 2008, 03:28 PM
#30
Have a look on your passenger side front suspension turret under the bonnet. You'll see a aluminium metal VIN plate, and punched in it, a 7-digit number next to where it reads 'Applied Model Code'...
The 4th digit after 'GC8...' will be a letter: either A, B, C, D, E, F or G. It should be a C or D - which is it?
The 4th digit after 'GC8...' will be a letter: either A, B, C, D, E, F or G. It should be a C or D - which is it?
Last edited by joz8968; 07 October 2008 at 03:33 PM.