just wanted to know if anyone has made a cold air feed to the block near the turbo as i was told no.3 piston goes alot because of high tempratures off the turbo. also what gauges should i get i was thinking of boost,oil temp,oil pressure and egt. is there anything else i should get if so where is best for them?

 

i was advised oil pressure and afr plus another of my choice.
Depends what spec your car is as i've run my 93wrx for 5 years with a slight power increase (20ps) and no 3 piston hasn't gone yet.

The main problem imo is people who do high speed runs for a long time then complain when their engines blow.

 

main problem is that the fuel is delivered in series, and guess the news, no.3 pot is last in line.
Two methods to overcome this:
1) convert to a parallel rail delivery system
2) reverse the flow through the rails

no.2 is of dubious value, no.1 is easy, cheap and effective if you use normal hose and T pieces. Make sure you use fuel injection hose mind as its running at something like 4bar under load.

Gauges: bin them all and concentrate on the road!
I would have boost for obvious reasons, oil pressure as a sudden drop will highlight all isn't well, oil temp if you're paranoid about booting it when cold, fuel pressure will warn you of a problem with your fuel pump. EGT is nice but more useful when pushing the limits somewhat, similarly water temp.

For a fairly standard car, most get boost, oil press and oil temp.

I have:
Boost/avc-r
wb02
oil temp
oil pressure
water temp
fuel pressure
EGT
and a partridge in a pear tree

 

Is it really a matter on the classics, that cylinder 3 can run lean?
I added 1% more fuel to it with my Power FC, this should be fine isn´t it?

The best gauges are the ones who warn you at a level you can set, let´s say at 1,5bar boost or 900°C EGT...
I find the AVCR better than every gauge to monitor and read boost.
As you can´t take a look at the gauge at WOT all the time and as Andy said, you should concentrate on the road!

 

Do you need an uprated fuel pump for the parrallel mod?

 

no

 

sorry to sound dumb but what is a avcr? i drive it below boost more than 80% of the time i only give it some every so often. and i never redline it ever. so what should i get gauge wise then as im paranoid of it going bang. how much fitted?

 

i thought the reason no.3 goes is because its so close to the turbo am i wrong?

 

yes

 

gauges wont stop your engine going pop, you would be deluding yourself if you thought they would.
boost is a good gauge, especially if you tune the car further, oil temp would be good so you know you're up to temp before booting it hard, oil pressure suddenly dropping can be signs of the famous big end issue.
All this information has been given to you above, read it again and make a judgement.
if you're running a standard car, not hammering it very often then I would suggest no gauges is the best bet.

avc-r = actuator valve controller- type R
its an electronic boost controller, its very good, you dont need it.
yet

 

Why not use a wing mounted air intake that doesn't source air from inside the engine bay. APS do a CAI for classics. As for guages, I'd go for oil temp, oil pressure and turbo boost.

 

I wouldnt rather eat my own faeces than fit a CAK to an unmapped car!
they will flow up to 20%more air without the extra fuel being added, many threads on this with John Banks/Andy.F having good input.
gauges on a standard car? waste of money

 

You should not fit a CAK with a sharp bend before the MAF sensor without a remap but the reason is not that they flow more air. Indeed in some cases they flow no more air whatsoever and sometimes reduce air flow.
The APS CAK for instance involves a 90 degree bend just before the MAF sensor. For air to flow round a 90 degree bend obviously the air on the outside has to flow faster than the air on the inside so the airflow is upset and it is therefore possible for the MAF sensor to misread air flow. If air flow is under estimated then too little fuel is added. Hence lean running.
Around February 2001 I fitted an APS CAK to my STi 6 Wagon and 11 miles later I picked up number 2 piston in the bore. It was only after considerable effort and involving Bob Rawle that we realised what had caused the weak running. It is now generally accepted that if you fit a CAK involving a 90 degree bend then in the interests of engine integrity your MAF needs rescaled as a minimum or a remap.
When I pointed this out to APS they denied there was a problem and continued to sell CAKs for some time without a warning advising of the need for a remap. I understand these kits now bear that warning but I do wonder how many engines could have been saved had they issued the warning soon after the problem was first explained to them.

 

i was thinking of making a hose from the air duct under the lights to the turbo or block if i was going to do it which materials are best. i know its probably a waste of time but it puts my mind at ease. i think ill get oil temp oil pressure and boost i know it wont prevent the car going bang but at least i might get a heads up before something gets to bad.

 

https://www.scoobynet.com/members-ga...er-newage.html

See the photos at post 16. Cold air divider.

 

didnt mean induction kit just a simple hose from a vent to the turbo or block

 

Are you still doing the dividers mate? I fancy one for my bugeye when my apexi filter finally arrives

 

has any of you heard of blueish sludge in coolant overflow resevoir.my pipes are rusty could this be the problem?

 

Not sure what pipes you are referring to? There is no relationship between the FMIC hard pipes and the coolant overflow.??? Pictures? Explain?

I still do heat dividers but to make one complete, I need the car here.
Alternatively I can supply a carbon fibre blank and a sheet of silver heat divider material cut to size. You make a cardboard template, get it to the size and shape you want and when you are happy with it, cut the carbon fibre accordingly. Because the carbon fibre has a degree of flexibility it is not too difficult to get it to the required shape and position.
I usually finish them off with a length of door rubber seal or capping which butts up to the under bonnet side.

 

pointless, do you know what temps the turbo runs at?
Best off putting a turbo blanket or some fabricated heatwrap over the hot (rusty ) side.
Do not cover the compressor (shiny ) side though.

 

cheers anyway but has anyoone seen blue sludge in the top of the colant resevior i cleaned it im going for a blast today see if it comes back im hoping it was just a bit of corrosion. not hg failure .

 

check for mayonnaise at the oil filler cap and also bubbling of the coolant in the expansion tank.