Exhaust wrap on an STI
26 August 2008, 03:55 PM
#1
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Exhaust wrap on an STI
Guys
Your help is needed.....
Was thinking of putting wrap on my exhaust from manifold to back box.
By doing this will it decrease the exhaust's life time and start cracking from the inside out ?
Will it change the noise of the exhaust ?
If its done how much would be needed and how many steel ties should I go for ?
From what ive seen it might do the following.....
Advantages:
Possible increase in horsepower and fuel efficiency.
Keeps general engine temps down.
Disadvantages:
Cost and time to fit it.
Looks naff.
Your help is needed.....
Was thinking of putting wrap on my exhaust from manifold to back box.
By doing this will it decrease the exhaust's life time and start cracking from the inside out ?
Will it change the noise of the exhaust ?
If its done how much would be needed and how many steel ties should I go for ?
From what ive seen it might do the following.....
Advantages:
Possible increase in horsepower and fuel efficiency.
Keeps general engine temps down.
Disadvantages:
Cost and time to fit it.
Looks naff.
26 August 2008, 04:47 PM
#2
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I have just done mine .Headers ,downpipe,up-pipe,I used about 20 metres of wrap and about 35 steel ties,i don't think you have to do the whole exhaust as heat shields are only at the front part of the system.Get the ties from screw-fix 12.99 for 50.
27 August 2008, 09:18 AM
#3
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Cheers mate, good point about the steel ties, ill look at screw fix and other DIY shops.
How long did it take you to complete the whole job as im using a freinds ramps at a local garage and dont want him without them for to long due to his work load.
How long did it take you to complete the whole job as im using a freinds ramps at a local garage and dont want him without them for to long due to his work load.
27 August 2008, 10:40 AM
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much easier off the car.
should only take about an hour though to do headers, downpipe and up-pipe max.
remember to use a quality wrap, some of the cheaper wraps will require re-doing every couple of months as they disintegrate rapidly when wet.
remember to wet the wrap as you put it on, and pull it tight, also be generous with the laps.
see Precleaner, Engine Protection, precleaners, ancillary products for a good discount, I sorted out a 20% off with Wendy on the phone some time ago, there is a thread in the group buy section, all you have to do is tell her you're part of the scoobynet group buy.
I prefer snap-straps myself to hold the wrap in place, but to save afew quid you could even just use steel tie-wire and some nips.
I recall using more than 20m of wrap though, which suggests to me you may have been a little tight with your laps, for a hap'enneth of tar the ship was spoiled, so to speak.
be sure to get all the header and up pipe and at least the swan neck of the downpipe.
should only take about an hour though to do headers, downpipe and up-pipe max.
remember to use a quality wrap, some of the cheaper wraps will require re-doing every couple of months as they disintegrate rapidly when wet.
remember to wet the wrap as you put it on, and pull it tight, also be generous with the laps.
see Precleaner, Engine Protection, precleaners, ancillary products for a good discount, I sorted out a 20% off with Wendy on the phone some time ago, there is a thread in the group buy section, all you have to do is tell her you're part of the scoobynet group buy.
I prefer snap-straps myself to hold the wrap in place, but to save afew quid you could even just use steel tie-wire and some nips.
I recall using more than 20m of wrap though, which suggests to me you may have been a little tight with your laps, for a hap'enneth of tar the ship was spoiled, so to speak.
be sure to get all the header and up pipe and at least the swan neck of the downpipe.
27 August 2008, 06:16 PM
#5
A few years ago I won a Scoobymania back box and compared to the Revolution that was already on, it was LOUD. I considered that applying wrap for the full length of the exhaust would probably make it quieter but in reality it made no discernable difference. So I reckon I wasted time and money to find out.
The main reason for lagging headers or manifolds is to reduce heat transfer and there is probably a performance gain, particularly in the speed of spool up. The uppipe should also be wrapped. Wrapping the downpipe also reduces under bonnet heat. It is very unlikely there will be any performance benefit wrapping down stream from the end of the downpipe.
It takes about 3/4 of a 2" x 50 foot roll to wrap a set of OE headers and uppipe. It takes a bit more than that for tubular headers. A 3" open neck downpipe takes a bit more than 3/4 of a roll to do it properly.
On top of that I would guess it takes a further roll and a half at least to do the remainder of the exhaust and back box.
The most effective wrap I have found is DEI and it is applied damp, not wet. Keep it tight. It has stitching down each edge so you can judge the overlap and the stitching ensures there is minimal overlap waste.
It is a lot cheaper to use special stainless steel lock wire from Goodridge or whoever but it helps if you have twist and pull lock wire pliers.
Neatly wrapped it certainly does not look naff and who cares anyway unless you want to impress hedgehogs and rabbits but they might not live to tell the tale.
The main reason for lagging headers or manifolds is to reduce heat transfer and there is probably a performance gain, particularly in the speed of spool up. The uppipe should also be wrapped. Wrapping the downpipe also reduces under bonnet heat. It is very unlikely there will be any performance benefit wrapping down stream from the end of the downpipe.
It takes about 3/4 of a 2" x 50 foot roll to wrap a set of OE headers and uppipe. It takes a bit more than that for tubular headers. A 3" open neck downpipe takes a bit more than 3/4 of a roll to do it properly.
On top of that I would guess it takes a further roll and a half at least to do the remainder of the exhaust and back box.
The most effective wrap I have found is DEI and it is applied damp, not wet. Keep it tight. It has stitching down each edge so you can judge the overlap and the stitching ensures there is minimal overlap waste.
It is a lot cheaper to use special stainless steel lock wire from Goodridge or whoever but it helps if you have twist and pull lock wire pliers.
Neatly wrapped it certainly does not look naff and who cares anyway unless you want to impress hedgehogs and rabbits but they might not live to tell the tale.
27 August 2008, 09:46 PM
#7
This what i used to wrap mine mate, securing clips are about £5 for 10.
I would soak the heatwrap in water if i were you mate, it is VERY itchy if the fibres touch your skin! Also when you finished wrapping them you can also use lockwire to stop the wrap from sagging.
I would soak the heatwrap in water if i were you mate, it is VERY itchy if the fibres touch your skin! Also when you finished wrapping them you can also use lockwire to stop the wrap from sagging.
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28 August 2008, 06:37 AM
#9
Do NOT SOAK the wrap, certainly if it is the brown type like DEI. Apply it damp. The wrap is impregnated with chemicals which help it to seal/bond and it must be applied damp. If you soak it the chemicals are washed out.
Keep it tight so that even before tie wire or securing clips are applied it is already secure in final position.
Keep it tight so that even before tie wire or securing clips are applied it is already secure in final position.
