£1000 to spend, what do I do
25 August 2008, 11:25 PM
#1
£1000 to spend, what do I do
I have a 1999 impreza wagon, 50 thousands miles on the clock, it has a j and r filter, and a back box, I also found a unichip piggy back ecu under the floor, dont know what boost i am running , but wondering what i should do, exhaust, want it fairly quiet, milltek perfect but very expensive and would use all my budget, brakes brembos, then i need new alloys again all the budget gone, do I go for ecu reamp, simtek, ecutek etc, any advice here would be great, suspension, apex coilovers or tein, want it as soft as poss so this miisus doesnt put her back out every time she gets in it. Or do I do all the little bits, strut braces, bushes , gauges etc, with regards to gauges, I like the defi but they are damn expensive, I like the prosport or the swoosh gauges, has anyone got any idea how accurate these are, who makes the best dash gauge holder, one the matches the dash.
And lastly intercooler, tmic or fmic, i have been told either sti tmic, hyrid fmic, or hyperflow tmic, I want about 350bhp ish, I also have a forge bov and know all the other bit required to get to 350bhp, any help would be great.
And lastly intercooler, tmic or fmic, i have been told either sti tmic, hyrid fmic, or hyperflow tmic, I want about 350bhp ish, I also have a forge bov and know all the other bit required to get to 350bhp, any help would be great.
25 August 2008, 11:41 PM
#3
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as per Myblackwrx, get it on a rolling road with a decent tuner to make sure its running ok, the get a decat & larger turbo with a remap. get the parts second hand to save cash so you could get the 350 hp without blowing more than yout budget.
edit: get rid of the Forge BOV unless its a recirc.
edit: get rid of the Forge BOV unless its a recirc.
25 August 2008, 11:56 PM
#4
Why get rid of the forge bov, just got it, it was new and very cheap. If it blows I would buy a turbosmart. My brakes feel a bit spongy, can the 4 pots be really good if i upgrade the hoses and change pads and disks. Safety over speed for now. So you think a tmic is harder work than i fmic, I heard that the hyperflow bolts straight on, wheras the fmic need bumper cutting etc.
26 August 2008, 08:43 AM
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IMHO the VTA BOV is rubbish on a MY99 for 3 reasons, the first being it causes problems with the MAF sensor & if that fails then its potentially bye bye engine, take it from me you don't want to rebuild it unless you have to. The 2nd reason is that I see no performance gains to be had from fitting one. Thirdly, because they sound chav as ****! 
(It's your car, if you like it then fair enough)
There are a few replacement TMIC's out there, I think APS do a larger one fro our year of car thats a direct replacement. To be honest at the power you are trying to achieve I would stick with the standard intercooler & get a zero-sports IC undertray from revolution to make sure all of the air is directed over it.
The 4 pot brakes are pretty good in my eyes, although I've just upgraded to Newage Brembo's, the difference is very noticeable. I'd get them bled and make sure the pads aren't glazed, then keep an eye out for some secondhand brembo's. (the only problem with fitting larger brakes is the ned for larger wheels)
(It's your car, if you like it then fair enough)
There are a few replacement TMIC's out there, I think APS do a larger one fro our year of car thats a direct replacement. To be honest at the power you are trying to achieve I would stick with the standard intercooler & get a zero-sports IC undertray from revolution to make sure all of the air is directed over it.
The 4 pot brakes are pretty good in my eyes, although I've just upgraded to Newage Brembo's, the difference is very noticeable. I'd get them bled and make sure the pads aren't glazed, then keep an eye out for some secondhand brembo's. (the only problem with fitting larger brakes is the ned for larger wheels)
Last edited by DJ_Jon; 26 August 2008 at 08:46 AM.
26 August 2008, 12:58 PM
#8
Your new so please listen! first book your self into jgm or andyF they both do an apexi power fc ecu for around the £500 mark up and running i believe they are both very well respected mappers.. then spend the rest on braided hoses 5.1 fluid and a servo brace along with front and rear anti lift kits and roll bars along with a geometry sesson that should just about cost you a grand if you shop arround for your parts... and the car will be alot quicker and better ballanced and stop!! then when you have more cash and are used to it you can think about power upgrades but for now id make sure its set up properly first or things could get really expensive!!
26 August 2008, 03:53 PM
#10
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A real 350 BHP will break the gearbox.
Check the cambelt has been done and make sure all the relevant fluids have been changed in the recent past.
Change the MAF sensor. Check the lambda sensor. Make sure it isn't detting/running lean.
If you have any funds left after that get a good mechanic to have a good look around for problems and fix them.
Check the cambelt has been done and make sure all the relevant fluids have been changed in the recent past.
Change the MAF sensor. Check the lambda sensor. Make sure it isn't detting/running lean.
If you have any funds left after that get a good mechanic to have a good look around for problems and fix them.
26 August 2008, 05:22 PM
#11
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A real 350 BHP will break the gearbox.
Check the cambelt has been done and make sure all the relevant fluids have been changed in the recent past.
Change the MAF sensor. Check the lambda sensor. Make sure it isn't detting/running lean.
If you have any funds left after that get a good mechanic to have a good look around for problems and fix them.
Check the cambelt has been done and make sure all the relevant fluids have been changed in the recent past.
Change the MAF sensor. Check the lambda sensor. Make sure it isn't detting/running lean.
If you have any funds left after that get a good mechanic to have a good look around for problems and fix them.
26 August 2008, 05:52 PM
#12
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hi i have a 1999 turbo also although not a wagon but was just reading your post's and the gear box thing scare's me 
what is a safe bhp for a 1999 uk gear box (i presume there the same on both wagon and saloon?) as i would like to take mine to about 350 bhp but not if my gear box is gonna blow up.
and to 1999wagon ecutec remap is the way forward in my eyes
what is a safe bhp for a 1999 uk gear box (i presume there the same on both wagon and saloon?) as i would like to take mine to about 350 bhp but not if my gear box is gonna blow up.
and to 1999wagon ecutec remap is the way forward in my eyes
26 August 2008, 05:56 PM
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True, but I think on 99/00 UK turbo cams you'd struggle to get 350 BHP without running enough torque to kill the gearbox. My MY00 UK Turbo 3rd gear lost every tooth a week after fitting a TD05 even with mechanically sympathetic use, yet the standard clutch held the torque and subsequently held 363 lbft without slipping.
On a std box I would stick to the TD04.
On a std box I would stick to the TD04.
26 August 2008, 08:50 PM
#14
agree,
get it on a rolling road to check engine is sweet. use a reputable garage that know bout scoobies. perhaps have it mapped if need be to remove your uni- chip.
then spend the rest on brakes, and suspension.
get it on a rolling road to check engine is sweet. use a reputable garage that know bout scoobies. perhaps have it mapped if need be to remove your uni- chip.
then spend the rest on brakes, and suspension.
26 August 2008, 09:41 PM
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True, but I think on 99/00 UK turbo cams you'd struggle to get 350 BHP without running enough torque to kill the gearbox. My MY00 UK Turbo 3rd gear lost every tooth a week after fitting a TD05 even with mechanically sympathetic use, yet the standard clutch held the torque and subsequently held 363 lbft without slipping.
On a std box I would stick to the TD04.
On a std box I would stick to the TD04.
I tend to side with you on erring on the side of caution, however, if you intend to use the car for track days/at the pod etc, you should definitely expect it to break. If its for road use, prepare for the worst, hope for the best!
Ns04 *touchwood* etc
26 August 2008, 11:25 PM
#17
Thanks for the advice guys, does the zero sport ic splitter really work as well as it says it should, 100% better flow? What can my standard ic take poer wise if I got one of those. I want at least 320bhp so my gearbox should be ok, what turbo should i get? ECU wise I think i am going for a simtek, as it seems the best route for the future, as knowing me in a couple of years I may just go crazy and go for 500bhp. And launch control, no maf etc would be good. I dont really need a good mechanic , its me, as I only trust myself.
I have spoken to ian at godspeed and he recommends mintex pads with his disks and 5.1 fluid and braided hoses, that should do the trick for now for my braking. And lastly I maybe new ish to scoobys but i have been tuning cars for 12 years and have owned most of the popular sports/racing cars. Thanks again for all your help.
I have spoken to ian at godspeed and he recommends mintex pads with his disks and 5.1 fluid and braided hoses, that should do the trick for now for my braking. And lastly I maybe new ish to scoobys but i have been tuning cars for 12 years and have owned most of the popular sports/racing cars. Thanks again for all your help.
26 August 2008, 11:41 PM
#18
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Get an STI intercooler (good for 400hp) , a VF38, FPR(up to you which make) cold air feed, Walbro, and a remap for 320bhp.
You WILL be happy with that. Thats 100bhp over standard. The difference if phenominal. Trust me. But price a clutch.
You WILL be happy with that. Thats 100bhp over standard. The difference if phenominal. Trust me. But price a clutch.
26 August 2008, 11:52 PM
#21
The Simtek is a good choice and is one of the best ECU's on the market. Supplied, fitted and mapped with LC and ALS options is going to cost you £1150. Then the cost of disks and brakes bang goes your budget.
Its a slippery slope is this tuning scoob malarky. Regardless of the lucky few, UK gearboxes above 300bhp are prone to breaking. More break than don't. I broke 2 gearboxes in two weeks at 330bhp. I then went the six speed route.
If you're sticking with MAF don't worry about the VTA dump valve being an issue. I ran MAF and VTA at 330, 360, and 450bhp and some 60K miles and without issues. The thing that kills MAFs particularly the MY99 Maf (which I had) is crappy air filters and induction kits.
There's many places to start. if you want instant performance gains then an decent ECU and remap is a good place to start. Others say to start with suspension and brakes. At the end of the day it obviously depends what you want most. John's advice above is excellent, he's been there and done it as far as scoobies go.
Just to add I had 360bhp out of a VF28 but that was with loads of mods and the car was awaiting delivery of a much bigger turbo.
Its a slippery slope is this tuning scoob malarky. Regardless of the lucky few, UK gearboxes above 300bhp are prone to breaking. More break than don't. I broke 2 gearboxes in two weeks at 330bhp. I then went the six speed route.
If you're sticking with MAF don't worry about the VTA dump valve being an issue. I ran MAF and VTA at 330, 360, and 450bhp and some 60K miles and without issues. The thing that kills MAFs particularly the MY99 Maf (which I had) is crappy air filters and induction kits.
There's many places to start. if you want instant performance gains then an decent ECU and remap is a good place to start. Others say to start with suspension and brakes. At the end of the day it obviously depends what you want most. John's advice above is excellent, he's been there and done it as far as scoobies go.
Just to add I had 360bhp out of a VF28 but that was with loads of mods and the car was awaiting delivery of a much bigger turbo.
Last edited by dazdavies; 26 August 2008 at 11:55 PM.
27 August 2008, 08:55 AM
#22
I am either going to extend my budget a little and do the simtek and the brakes, or the simtek and the exhaust or the simtek and the turbo, not quite sure yet. Suspension is pretty go for day to day driving so will change when i go on track. How good are the 6 speed boxes? Simtex fitted is £1000, Brake pads and disks £150 if I get the turbo and simtek fitted at api its £1600, but I am also have to upgrade my fuel pump. How much can the standard injectors take, think they are 440, does anyone recommend magnecor leads and particular plugs.
27 August 2008, 09:37 AM
#23
The six speed boxes are awesome. They cope with around 600bhp and similar torque quite easily. If your upgrading the fuel pump I would also budget for a Fuel pressure regulator. I ran a pump and OEM fuel pressure reg and the pump eventually overpowered my standard reg. It let too much fuel back to the tank and one of the bores ran lean and the piston picked up in the bore.
My UK MY1999 with a VF28, sti heads, manifold, exhaust APS cold air feed, made 330 bhp on 440's but injector duty was in the 95%+ duty area. I then went to 740's and a power FC and the car drove alot better and was alot more econimical as daft as it sounds. As for plugs and leads stick with the standard leads as some the big power boys will tell you they are far better than the magnecor ones. Plugs wise NGK PFR7B's are the ones to go for. Forget all this denso iridium sh*te, the tips have been known to break off them causing all sorts of problems.
Hope that helps
My UK MY1999 with a VF28, sti heads, manifold, exhaust APS cold air feed, made 330 bhp on 440's but injector duty was in the 95%+ duty area. I then went to 740's and a power FC and the car drove alot better and was alot more econimical as daft as it sounds. As for plugs and leads stick with the standard leads as some the big power boys will tell you they are far better than the magnecor ones. Plugs wise NGK PFR7B's are the ones to go for. Forget all this denso iridium sh*te, the tips have been known to break off them causing all sorts of problems.
Hope that helps
27 August 2008, 05:08 PM
#28
Thanks for the advice guys, yes brakes are a big concern, I will sort them out aswell, this is a long term project maybe more than 5 years so eventually everything will be replaced . Just making sure I do things in the right order, I think I will go for exhaust, remap and brakes first, all else to follow. The hybrid fmic do seem very good value at the mo, and doesnt matter what i do to the car they will be future proof, as will the simtek and the milltek exhaust.
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