scooby2nr

recently my car started feeling down on power and not boosting very high, i found out the intake pipe split at the turbo, which i replace but it still felt really laggy and down on power. i've changed the actuator as it had a lot of play in it. the boost is back up again but its still coming in far too late, not boosting till 3.5k revs.
can anyone help?
p.s no fault codes are present.

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps a description of car/mods may help

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

What year and model please as basically no one will understand what your going on about with several different types of scoobs/turbo's out there, ie a new age twin scroll JDM will start to come on boost below 2k, a standard 03 UK STI will be about 3.5k, a classic turbo will be about 2.3k etc (TD04) and higher for a TD05 car.

Tony

scooby2nr

is a v3 sti standard car apart from hks ssqv and k&n cone filter, vf24 turbo i think which is std.

scooby2nr

can anyone help?

Redbelly

Check all the boost control pipework,and the little "T" joint for cracks splits ect,if you still have no luck you may need to tune the boost restrictor

nom

Reset the ECU. Any air leak will mean that the fuelling will have been off, which the ECU may have picked up on but there's no 'fault' as such so it's just adjusted to take account of this and dropped boost control for safety, meaning it's running on actuator pressure only giving late boost to a maximum of typically 0.5bar. BTW, a split inlet pipe should mean that the engine will stall at idle if it's paying attention to all the sensors it should be!

adzer

iTrader: (13)

sounds like a fault my car has? car doesn't seem to boost as quick as my other scoob and boost gauge never sees over 0.5bar, i have unplugged my batteryt a number of times to reset the ecu but the fault codes wont go even after i've replaced the sensors. i have a 93 wrx ra

nom

If the ECU has been reset & you're still not getting over 0.5 bar (but should be!), it's worth checking the compressor/actuator/boost solenoid tubing, both for correct connections and splits. It's possible something has come adrift regarding the actuator, but I'd check the hosing very carefully first (preferably replacing - doesn't cost much & means you know it definitely can't be that!).

adzer

iTrader: (13)

i replaced the turbo and boost solenoid with ones that i know are working fine and none of the piping was split when i changed them over. but i cant get rid of these fault codes

nom

I think I read that back-to-front the first time . What fault codes are you getting?

adzer

iTrader: (13)

codes 24 and 44 keep coming up. would these be causing the car the hold back power? if not i'm gonna get it on the rolling road to see if we can find anything

nom

Erm, idle valve & wastegate solenoid? Well, the wastegate solenoid error certainly would . I assume what it means is that it's under the impression that the wastegate solenoid isn't working, so it's not using it & you'll get the actuator pressure only. So that makes sense . Might be worth checking the connection? And then cleaning the solenoid? Might just be gunked up with oil... Cleaning's pretty straight-forward & there are 'guides' here & there, but basically it's a case of removing the thing then squirting brake-disk cleaner through it while clicking 12v across it to get the solenoid to open/shut. I think there's a way of connecting the cables up under the dash that should 'buzz' the solenoid so you could squirt the brake-cleaner through then(it's very similar to an ECU reset but with a black-to-green connection rather than green-to-green or something - can't remember I'm afraid - been a long time since I used the standard ECU ). That's just some thoughts - there should be more useful info on giving those ideas a go somewhere!
I'm a little lost when it comes to the idle valve bit, though - might be the same sort of 'clogging' possibly & it just needs a bit of a cleaning/loosening-up.

adzer

iTrader: (13)

i replaced the parts with ones from my wrx which had big end failure.

so i know the parts that i fitted are fine and not to fault, car idled like a pig but i managed to get it idling properly this morning but when i push the accelerator the revs will dip and sounds like the car is gonna stall then they will pick up like normal.

is there anyway to test the wiring to these items?

nom

Have the parts been tested/cleaned since the bigend failure? Neither of them would take well to having oil passed through them rather than air which is likely to have happened when the big-end went!
If they have been checked, it does sound like the loom may have a problem - a straight continuity test would do it. I don't know the pinouts for a 93 WRX RA though so couldn't help with what to stick where .