bluenose172

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone got any usefull links or guides for doing the above? I plan to keep the standard box but have read that a cold air feed from the fog light position is more efficient.

What to buy - I assume the standard Subaru fog light unit would do for neatness? How much do these cost from Subaru now?

Also what piping/ducting would you advise on? Links?

Anyone seen any guides?

Cheers,
Paul

bluenose172

iTrader: (2)

BTT

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

See my project thread on how to do this:
https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...stage-iii.html

bluenose172

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Floyd, I'll have a gander!

bluenose172

iTrader: (2)

Pipercross Accessories - cold air feed kits, crank case breather kits

Will this do the trick, also what size diameter?

bluenose172

iTrader: (2)

BTT

corradoboy

There have been cases where the water, dirt, oil and other crap fed directly into the intake box via a front entry point with direct ducting has overwhelmed the filter and led to MAF damage, resulting in serious and expensive engine failure. Be very careful !

stotty1

Tottally agree with this point. my 03 sti had a k&N typhoon untill last week when i reverted back to the standard box for a remap that was when the mapper found out my maf was faulty. I had no idea at all no eractic revs etc luckily no engine damage. Be warned

bluenose172

iTrader: (2)

I thought it was a common mod. Got any instances of that happening? Might just remove the resonator and put a u-bend pipe between the two holes in the wing.

corradoboy

Harvey Smith (Harvey Performance) did some extensive rolling road tests with a variety of filters (OE paper, K&N, STi etc) and with/without the resonator. He concluded that over all the different filters there was just ±2bhp difference. He also ran tests both with and without the resonator and concluded that removing it resulted in a drop of 8bhp+ (IIRC).

I ran without a res on my 03 WRX PPP and I 'felt' after removing it that it picked up a little better and ran ever so slightly cooler in traffic. These 'feelings' were never proven in any tangible way. I removed both the res AND the ram-air scoop, but opened up a couple of ways for air to get into the wing area (fake vents beside foglight drilled open and a flap cut into the undertray), and I then sealed off the wing from the engine bay by covering all the holes. I also used rubber hose to seal around the airbox so no hot engine-bay air could make it into the induction.

Maybe the only benefit I got was more induction noise, spooling up noise and dump valve noise (the OE recirc is more audible after res removal)