ECU Problem???
#1
ECU Problem???
I've had the car for just over 2 years now, and when I got it it always felt a bit "flat" when driving - don't get me wrong, it was quick, but I always felt it should have been quick-er.
I had it remapped in November last year and the difference was amazing - much earlier pick-up, better acceleration, etc.
However, about 2 months on, and it was like the car had returned to a slightly "in between" version of its post-remap performance.
When I fitted my HID kit a month or so ago, I removed the battery (and I assume reset the ECU in doing so) and the old performance was back again for about a week, but again now it feels worse.
Any ideas what could be causing this? Could it be a problem with ECU or something else? I don't have any engine lights on or anything like that, but I know the car's been quicker than it currently is and I don't fancy having to constantly disconnect the battery to get the best performance out of it!
I had it remapped in November last year and the difference was amazing - much earlier pick-up, better acceleration, etc.
However, about 2 months on, and it was like the car had returned to a slightly "in between" version of its post-remap performance.
When I fitted my HID kit a month or so ago, I removed the battery (and I assume reset the ECU in doing so) and the old performance was back again for about a week, but again now it feels worse.
Any ideas what could be causing this? Could it be a problem with ECU or something else? I don't have any engine lights on or anything like that, but I know the car's been quicker than it currently is and I don't fancy having to constantly disconnect the battery to get the best performance out of it!
#2
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If you do lots of town driving like Granny would the ecu tries to give good mpg., if you hammer it everywhere it will perform, but drink like a fish !
HTH
DunxC
HTH
DunxC
#3
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the ecu constantly fine tunes the fuel and ignition..
if you drive it around town it will only be fine tuning the areas it goes in..
unless it sees some det (which is rare whilst driving gently) at which point it will coarse learn the whole lot..
so if all is well you could drive gentle all week and hard at the weekend and the same power would still be there etc..
what fuel are you using? if it is not as good as it was mapped on it will retard the ignition and take power away if it sees det..
the other option is something has failed like the maf sensor and it is doing the best it can to keep it safe.
When you reset the ecu it defaults the learnt ignition to the middle.. it then either learns up or down.. this is a value (advance multiplier) between 0 and 16.. 16 being most ignition (ie. whole base and whole of correction map).
when you reset the ecu it (unless set different at map time) goes to 8..
it will then monitor and either go up to 16 over a few on boost runs if all is well or drop if it picks up det.. once it gets to 4 it will drop the boost down too. . which is what it sounds like it might be doing.. either bad fuel or something else causing it to drop back. . maf failing or air filter blocked etc
Simon
#4
Simon - thanks for your input - this is an interesting point - can the MAF be removed and cleaned, and is it easy to diagnose this problem? I'm reluctant to take it to the dealer and get charged an arm and a leg to be told something needs replacing when all it needs is a good clean! That said, Bulldog Twyford, my local dealer are generally pretty good....
I'm running a green panel filter which I put on when I bought the car and it's not too dirty so unlikely to be that I reckon.
In regards to the fuel, I've only ever run the car on super; used to put Sainsburys super in, but nowadays tend to stick to V-Power or Tesco '99.
I used to get slight hesitation and stuttering when accelerating hard when I first bought the car, but this behaviour disappeared when it was remapped (I had it done at Paramount Performance in Slough).
I do drive it fairly sensibly in the mornings to work (otherwise I'd be filling up so much I'd never leave Tesco!), but that's not to say I don't give it some abuse every now and then
I'm running a green panel filter which I put on when I bought the car and it's not too dirty so unlikely to be that I reckon.
In regards to the fuel, I've only ever run the car on super; used to put Sainsburys super in, but nowadays tend to stick to V-Power or Tesco '99.
I used to get slight hesitation and stuttering when accelerating hard when I first bought the car, but this behaviour disappeared when it was remapped (I had it done at Paramount Performance in Slough).
I do drive it fairly sensibly in the mornings to work (otherwise I'd be filling up so much I'd never leave Tesco!), but that's not to say I don't give it some abuse every now and then
#5
ECU Problem - MAF replacement?
So looked at postings on here re the MAF.
When I had the MAF sensor out of its housing a while back it was covered in some horrible muck so perhaps this might explain things??
Some people say to clean it with electronic circuit cleaner from Halfords, others say to unplug it whilst the engine's running to test it.
Am I better just buying a new one regardless - for the sake of £100ish?
If so, where can I get one, and is it a simple plug and play or is it more complicated than that? I'm hearing horror stories of dealers wanting £250...
When I had the MAF sensor out of its housing a while back it was covered in some horrible muck so perhaps this might explain things??
Some people say to clean it with electronic circuit cleaner from Halfords, others say to unplug it whilst the engine's running to test it.
Am I better just buying a new one regardless - for the sake of £100ish?
If so, where can I get one, and is it a simple plug and play or is it more complicated than that? I'm hearing horror stories of dealers wanting £250...
#9
I'm positive that the car's pick up and behaviour in general is much improved after an ECU reset, and then falls off a few days later (e.g. I get hesitancy under intial acceleration sometimes, but never immediately after an ECU reset) - this would seem to go hand in hand with other people on this forum who had similar problems and replacing the MAF improved things - and if I can indeed get one for £80 then I'd be more inclined to buy it and fit it myself than be charged by the dealer to tell me I need one and then again to fit one!
#11
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I just bought a MAF sensor for an MY00 classic last week from a Subaru dealer and it was £94 including vat. I dont know if yours would be any dearer for the newer car. When I asked the price they said "about £80+vat for them all" before I had said the year of my car so it might be the same.
It was pretty easy to fit. Unplug the connector then it was 2 screws and thats it. If you have the original screws in they are size 20 security/tamper torx. Just like the normal torx scew but it has a little pin in the middle of the screw so your torx bit has to have a hollow point if that makes sense. I got a set of 20 bits in various sizes for £8 in a local ironmonger. Machine mart show sets for £5 or £6.
It was pretty easy to fit. Unplug the connector then it was 2 screws and thats it. If you have the original screws in they are size 20 security/tamper torx. Just like the normal torx scew but it has a little pin in the middle of the screw so your torx bit has to have a hollow point if that makes sense. I got a set of 20 bits in various sizes for £8 in a local ironmonger. Machine mart show sets for £5 or £6.
Last edited by colsand; 26 March 2008 at 01:06 PM.
#13
I just bought a MAF sensor for an MY00 classic last week from a Subaru dealer and it was £94 including vat. I dont know if yours would be any dearer for the newer car. When I asked the price they said "about £80+vat for them all" before I had said the year of my car so it might be the same.
It was pretty easy to fit. Unplug the connector then it was 2 screws and thats it. If you have the original screws in they are size 20 security/tamper torx. Just like the normal torx scew but it has a little pin in the middle of the screw so your torx bit has to have a hollow point if that makes sense. I got a set of 20 bits in various sizes for £8 in a local ironmonger. Machine mart show sets for £5 or £6.
It was pretty easy to fit. Unplug the connector then it was 2 screws and thats it. If you have the original screws in they are size 20 security/tamper torx. Just like the normal torx scew but it has a little pin in the middle of the screw so your torx bit has to have a hollow point if that makes sense. I got a set of 20 bits in various sizes for £8 in a local ironmonger. Machine mart show sets for £5 or £6.
image here
but I've read this thread which suggests it costs a bit more...
The only link I've found so far to buy Impreza MAF's is a US site - Scoobyworld only seems to stock classic ones...
#15
HOW MUCH!???
Well be prepared for an absolute laugh.
The price of a replacement MAF for a newage car is absolutely ridiculous.
Just phoned the dealer and was told that whilst Classic MAF's are £75+VAT, the new age ones, and this is JUST for the sensor not the whole unit, are:
£267.85 + VAT - that's £314.72 all inclusive
Apparently there are two types for the new age as well, but all new age cars have a more expensive type manufactured by Denso. Neil @ Bulldog said they only buy them in at just over £200 each, so they're dear to begin with before Subaru add their markup. This seems nuts to me. I will attempt to locate a spare for that money....
The price of a replacement MAF for a newage car is absolutely ridiculous.
Just phoned the dealer and was told that whilst Classic MAF's are £75+VAT, the new age ones, and this is JUST for the sensor not the whole unit, are:
£267.85 + VAT - that's £314.72 all inclusive
Apparently there are two types for the new age as well, but all new age cars have a more expensive type manufactured by Denso. Neil @ Bulldog said they only buy them in at just over £200 each, so they're dear to begin with before Subaru add their markup. This seems nuts to me. I will attempt to locate a spare for that money....
#17
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that sucks. can you tell me how many miles you have on your bug?
sometimes I think they ( maf ) go away around 60 000 miles mine only has 85 000 kms, I think it's around 50 000 miles.
guess you have to accept it and pay that amount
sometimes I think they ( maf ) go away around 60 000 miles mine only has 85 000 kms, I think it's around 50 000 miles.
guess you have to accept it and pay that amount
#19
Bugeye Scoob
The Newage MAF can be had as a replacement without all the associated pipework
When the newage was launched you had to buy half the inlet tract !! but subaru relented a couple of years ago and now you can buy just the MAF
I'd contact BRD / Bob Rawle as I deffo know they sell them 70 odd quid plus VAT
Shaun
The Newage MAF can be had as a replacement without all the associated pipework
When the newage was launched you had to buy half the inlet tract !! but subaru relented a couple of years ago and now you can buy just the MAF
I'd contact BRD / Bob Rawle as I deffo know they sell them 70 odd quid plus VAT
Shaun
#20
here ........ BRDevelopments
the site is undergoing a bit of an upgrade but the telephone number is there It will probably be Branco who answers the phone LOL
the site is undergoing a bit of an upgrade but the telephone number is there It will probably be Branco who answers the phone LOL
Last edited by Midlife......; 27 March 2008 at 12:18 PM. Reason: spelling
#28
I was actually lucky enough to get a reply to my post in the wanted forum - managed to pick up a 2nd hand one for £35 - should be waiting for me on Monday when I get to work - I'll let you know if it sorts the problem.
Thanks for the alternate contact though Simon - it might still come in handy!
Thanks for the alternate contact though Simon - it might still come in handy!
#29
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lucky you man let me know if it sorts the problem.
Lateral Performance also sell just the sensor? have to send them an email too, still haven't a reply from brd
Lateral Performance also sell just the sensor? have to send them an email too, still haven't a reply from brd