Tightening nuts on track rod arm thingy....
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Tightening nuts on track rod arm thingy....
Had to remove these today to get some really tough bottom ball joints back in, finally completed the first task, only when it came to tightening the nuts back up, the whole stud just spins round, this is the same for both sides
Is this a job that just has to be done using air tools??
2001 Clio btw
Is this a job that just has to be done using air tools??
2001 Clio btw
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track rod ends
hia no need for air tools all you need is a couple of axle stands? put one under the balljoint of the trackrod end and then lower the car until the balljoint is sitting on the axle stand, with the weight on it they should just do up,thats if the nut is on top. if the nut is underneath get a long bar wedge it in somewhere (make sure its safe and not going to slip out) them get a mate to put there weight on it and it will tighten up.
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hi mate,
are talking about the track rod ends (the bit that does the steering) or the bottom ball joint (end of the bottom arm)??
stevie
are talking about the track rod ends (the bit that does the steering) or the bottom ball joint (end of the bottom arm)??
stevie
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Thats what you would think, I have whipped many drive shafts and ball joints out in my time, with great ease. This one though
Tiny little wishbones, which were being upspung by the ARB, then the leg itself being pushed down by the suspension spring.
All in all a **** of a job, and one I wish never to repeat.
Tiny little wishbones, which were being upspung by the ARB, then the leg itself being pushed down by the suspension spring.
All in all a **** of a job, and one I wish never to repeat.
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in that case jacking up the the bottom arms isn't going to do anything, thats only good for bottom ball joints. make sure the shank and the hole in the hub are clean. as bob said try a G clamp or mole grips, i've even managed it with a couple of tie wraps! but when i can find it i use my ball joint splitter to press it together rather than apart.
BALL JOINT SEPERATOR / SPLITTER SCREW/ SCISSOR TYPE on eBay, also, Other Garage Equipment Tools, Garage Equipment Tools, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 10-Mar-08 18:40:44 GMT)
stevie
BALL JOINT SEPERATOR / SPLITTER SCREW/ SCISSOR TYPE on eBay, also, Other Garage Equipment Tools, Garage Equipment Tools, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 10-Mar-08 18:40:44 GMT)
stevie
Last edited by stevie boy; 07 March 2008 at 08:47 PM. Reason: typo's
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Hmm, think this has got confused slightly, the bottom ball joints are no longer an issue, they are sorted, it the nut that bolts the track rod arm to the hub thats the issue.
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in that case jacking up the the bottom arms isn't going to do anything, thats only good for bottom ball joints. make sure the shank and the hole in the hub are clean. as bob said try a G clamp or mole grips, i've even managed it with a couple of tie wraps! but when i can find it i use my ball joint splitter to press it together rather than apart.
BALL JOINT SEPERATOR / SPLITTER SCREW/ SCISSOR TYPE on eBay, also, Other Garage Equipment Tools, Garage Equipment Tools, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 10-Mar-08 18:40:44 GMT)
stevie
BALL JOINT SEPERATOR / SPLITTER SCREW/ SCISSOR TYPE on eBay, also, Other Garage Equipment Tools, Garage Equipment Tools, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 10-Mar-08 18:40:44 GMT)
stevie
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thats it, make sure its clean from oil / grease and clean the threads as well. usually you don't need that much pressure, as soon as the nut bites it clamps its self, although some come with an allen key way, so you can stop it spinning that way.
stevie
stevie
Last edited by stevie boy; 07 March 2008 at 09:21 PM. Reason: typo
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I think I might have made that confusing, I was trying to imply 'the ball joint on the TRE'. I knew what I meant
When you clamp it down, friction on the taper holds it enough to wind the nut on. You don't ususally have a problem undoing it as the taper is already seized into the hub
When you clamp it down, friction on the taper holds it enough to wind the nut on. You don't ususally have a problem undoing it as the taper is already seized into the hub
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I think I might have made that confusing, I was trying to imply 'the ball joint on the TRE'. I knew what I meant
When you clamp it down, friction on the taper holds it enough to wind the nut on. You don't ususally have a problem undoing it as the taper is already seized into the hub
When you clamp it down, friction on the taper holds it enough to wind the nut on. You don't ususally have a problem undoing it as the taper is already seized into the hub
I shall post my results tomorrow
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Had to do the same job on a 106 last weekend.. Ran into the same problem.. I just bolted it back together and put the cars weight on the ball joint.. bolt tightend up after a bit of thumping with a hammer
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cool, glad its not just me then
Seems my prob was I didnt know that the shaft is tapered, if I had have known that earlier I would have tried a few other methods.
Seems my prob was I didnt know that the shaft is tapered, if I had have known that earlier I would have tried a few other methods.
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