scoobyboy34

I have software on my laptop where by using the OBD2 port i can access the ecu on my 2000 UK Turbo. I also have a MY94 WRX with the standard ISO diagnostics plug. What i was wondering if anyone here has used their laptop to access the ecu on earlier type version 1-2 cars using their laptop.

Rather than trying to get hold of a select monitor, would it be possible to do this? There are 5 wires coming out of the 9 pin yellow ISO plug, and 5 pins on the OBD2 cable, does anyone have diagrams of what wires would be for what?

Only info i got so far is ISO: Pin2-Green/White Pin3-Light Green / Red Pin4-Pink Pin5-Yellow / Red Pin9-Black / Red

I just need to know where these wires would go to in respect of pin order on the OBD2 cable.

Any help would be appreciated.

scoobyboy34

Any Ideas???

Spyder550

Either of these any use

Vanagons with Subaru WRX Turbo Engines

B10 Scan Tool

Scott.T@PolarPerformance

Select Monito connector (Yellow) is only 4 pins. Power, Gnd, Tx and Rx
Not OBD compatible.

Saltrock23

The device i brought wont connect witht he software i have what software did you use as i also have a impreza 2000 turbo yr '00

my94wrx

iTrader: (4)

what device have you bought and software are you using?

Saltrock23

USB ELm 327 obd2 cable and i was trying to use PCMscan

saiklon

Simplest option is to use the Subaru SSMI cable (for 93-96 cars) and Evoscan software (don't be fooled by the name, it does Imprezas as well) from www.evoscan.com. Both of them shipped should cost you less than $100.

The yellow diagnostic connector is not compatible with OBDI and uses the Subaru proprietary SSMI protocol.

Saltrock23

Do you mean this one:
EvoScan 1.3D USB OBDII/MUTIII/SSMII Datalogging Cable


with the evoscan pc software
Or will my elm327 obd2 usb work with evoscan software

sc_sjo

iTrader: (7)

eBay item #250678977104 & RomRaider / ECUExplorer

Don't waste your money on more expensive stuff

saiklon

Saltrock, yes that cable and Evoscan/Ecuexplorer/Romraider would work for you. I suggested Evoscan since the OP has a 1993 car and it's the only actively developed software that supports that age of car. I have not heard of anyone getting an ELM cable to work with an Impreza

Seems like the cable sc_sjo posted would also work with the OBDII cars, I however have had no experience with using it.

Saltrock23

will try my cable and newly downloaded evoscan and see if not will prob buy the evoscan lead

benzico

iTrader: (3)

hows the evoscan? can you check afr in real time? cheers

Saltrock23

wouldnt work withe the oBD2 cable am waitin for the evo scan cable in post

jeffwrx

iTrader: (50)

Has any one tried this on the 93-96 cars yet , i have bought the cable from evoscan , and i can't get it to connect to the ecu on my 95 wrx? , i have just pluged the cable in into the plug on the car , do you have to do anything else?
any ideas, cheers

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Are you using the Evoscan v2.7 software as well??

jeffwrx

iTrader: (50)

yeah, using the evo scan 2.7 software, its trying to connect but times out ? , i might have another go later , just wasn't sure if the green/black test connectors under the dash had to be connected or anything like that , cheers

bmposer

iTrader: (3)

Did you manage to get it working in the end.

tom991981

Hi all!

Tried my Evoscan last night and it fired up no problem. Don't know if the OP installed the drivers as well?? I gather for technical problems the Evoscan site is very helpful.

I have various questions for logging and what params / setup I should be using. I want to check the following things really:

A/F ratio - Am I lean/rich/ spot on? (Running MajorSarcasm chip & sports cat)
Knock correction - Am I getting Knock?
Timing - Is it being pulled?
Occasionally boost is pulled - I want to know what could be causing it (knock?)
A definitive boost profile - To see if I am hitting target and my gauge is accurate.
IAM - What is it and why should it be 16???
Throttle voltage - What is the correct range for voltage? Is my TPS ok...

I gather the best thing is to take a run in 3rd or 4th in a straight drag foot to the floor as if you were on a dyno?

I wish there was a dummies guide but there does not appear to be....

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Which cable are you using?
Which ECU do you have fitted?

IAM sort of explained.

tom991981

V1 STI, sports cat, panel filter, 2C ECU but with J1 cut and MajorSarcasms chip in. I think its therefore totally irrelevant I think with the chip in?...atleast thats what I was told?

I have the Official Evoscan cable and Evoscan 2.7. I have worked out that my TPS voltage is about 5v no throttle and 0.9 flat to the floor, which is in range so fine I think. Scratch that one!

IAM - I AM no more understanding after reading that! I'll have a google tonight but I presume Evoscan will just say 16 or not. Once I know what I have I guess I wil write it up here and see what's WOT, geddit?!

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

IAM is the 'leaning function' of the ECU. It 'learns' the the way you drive and advances or retards a degree or two to adapt.
If poor running, or a duff sensor for example is detected the ECU trims the IAM to prevent damage to the engine.
Now iirc,
16 is middle and where the IAM starts. A little higher is fine as it is giving you advance, where less would not be desirable as that would be retarding and showing you have an issue.

SSMI 744014 works for me. Z5 with a PP chip fitted.

tom991981

Great! Will give this a go this weekend!

saiklon

IAM, range is 0 to 16, it starts at 8 and goes from there based on presence/absence of knock. I don't think Evoscan includes this in its definitions, however you can add it, address is 0x1353

A/F ratio - you need a wideband to log this.

To know if and where timing is being pulled, you really need to look at both your IAM and FLKC table. Unfortunately Evoscan does not allow you to view the FLKC table, except maybe as separate values. The FLKC table is from 0x1430 to 0x1470.

I modified a ROM (available on subiesmart.com) that adds a parameter to show you when knock happens, Therefore I only have to log IAM and the knock parameter and don't need 100% to view the FLKC table. However it's really only useful for someone who will be burning their own chip, in your case since you won't be modifying your ROM, it probably won't help.

tom991981

I have added it, not seen whether it works or not but I found out how to add it and have done.

I am guessing this is another bit of kit and $$$ - Am I better off doing a rolling road session to check this? Guess so...

Can I not do what this chap did on NASIOC ? He uses knock correction and ignition advance. I assume when the knock correction peaks it is detecting knock? Please enlighten me!
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1975703

I have a promise of alterations to the chip if I so require them. The above goes over my head a little but I think that you have something that flashes the CEL on detecting knock?

Confused.com - I think I will start with what I have this weekend and go from there...hopefully I will post up here results and get your opinion(s) ... Thanks for the help so far!

saiklon

A wideband like the Innovate LC-1 is pretty cheap, compare it to the cost of a RR and make a decision.

Knock correction is total timing (base timing map + advance timing map) - timing removed due to knock. So if you have 2 degrees of timing being pulled due to knock, you will for example have timing advance as 23 and knock correction as 21.

The idea of using knock correction and ignition advance is good. However the logging rate is so slow on these ECUs that the ignition advance and knock correction when logged MIGHT be referencing slightly different load/RPM cells so a difference between them might not be due to knock but due to different values in the ROM. I think even with this limitation, you will be able to see when large values of timing are pulled. However I wouldn't trust it for 1 or 2 degree difference (unless the total timing map is flat at that point).

Yes the ROM I posted on that forum flashes CEL on knock and increments a RAM value that can be used to tell that knock occurred. The CEL flash is more of a flicker so it's not very visible in daylight.

tom991981

About £150?... too much to bother for me I think...

I think a rough idea here will do for now and investigate depending on what I find...

Thanks for all the info though, very much appreciated! Do you know how reliable/ accurate the power guesstimation Evoscan can apparently perform is? Just a laugh really but will see what it says!

tom991981

Right, logged with IAM. Last night driving boost was limited to 9psi. Today added octane booster to esso 97RON, logged again and boost rises to 16psi as it should, not 100% of time but I put that down to octane not fully mixed up. Much improved though.
However logging IAM gives a flat figure of 5. Should I try resetting ECU? Do we think it will improve as octane booster feeds through? Seems an octane problem but it should be ok on 97 so I don't know why it's an issue...

saiklon

Resetting the ECU will help in getting the IAM to adjust to the new fuel faster. IAM should increase due to the octane booster (if the octane booster is actually worth it, a few of them do almost nothing).

Don't worry too much even if your IAM is 5, it does mean that you have a smaller margin that the car can reduce timing by if you get a bad batch of fuel, however you only need to start worrying if it goes lower than this. I would consider 3 and below as time to get worried. Book that RR as well to check your AFRs or get a new fuel pump at least, very likely the engine is running lean which is what's making the IAM drop.

Your inconsistent boost is not due to octane changes, it's probably something to do with your turbo/wastegate plumbing. First step is to usually clean the boost solenoid.

tom991981

Well since I added octane booster and topped up tank with 97 RON from Esso I have not had issue at all... Oddly boost is ever so slightly less than normal, about 14-15psi when normally 16psi nailed on, but it seems to wander slightly there or there abouts? Perhaps the reset would sort this - its the ECU learning maybe?

But its not dropping to 9psi at all now. I am going to run the tank right down, out 99RON in and see how I go. Did not reset ECU as did not have a chance nor did I log again. Problem somewhat solved for now....will reset ECU anyway though.

I had already cleaned the boost solenoid out and boost was still very much pulled. It was happily clicking away and I checked plumbing for leaks or loose fitting pipes and found no issues. Cleaned MAF too. Due to intermittent nature I think the problem was ECU seeing det and pulling boost.

Next step, reset ECU, some injector cleaner and a check / change of the plugs to see if that tells me if running lean / carbon build up casing early det and finally another log to check IAM... Could still be an underlying issue or combination of issues....will just see what happens with the above steps.