Please help! 'Check Engine' Light.
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Please help! 'Check Engine' Light.
Running smoothly, my Classic 2.0 sport made it to work and back when petrol was on the red light. Filled up on the way home and all was well untill i turned on a side road and hit the gas in 2nd, car felt like it was in 4th and the 'Check Engine' light came on. I checked the gears to make sure i was in 2nd. Stopped, back into first gear, and away i went as normal. 'Check Engine' light went off, all was well again.
That was on Thursday, on Sunday i drove down from Manchester to Birmingham and back again with no problems what so ever. Only for it to do the same thing in 2nd gear late Sunday night when turning back on my road.
Drove it to work fine this morning. Really odd.
Has anyone got any ideas to what it may be? Struggling to find a solution in the subaru manual.
Thanks for looking.
SetoN
That was on Thursday, on Sunday i drove down from Manchester to Birmingham and back again with no problems what so ever. Only for it to do the same thing in 2nd gear late Sunday night when turning back on my road.
Drove it to work fine this morning. Really odd.
Has anyone got any ideas to what it may be? Struggling to find a solution in the subaru manual.
Thanks for looking.
SetoN
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under the drivers side of the dash (above the pedals) you'll see a bunch of wires hanging or possibably taped up! There's a green pair and a black pair. Plug the black ones together and turn the ignition on. Now your check engine light will start flashing. a short flash = 1 and a long flash = 10
so say you get;
long flash
long flash
short
short
short
that will be code 23!
When you've done that post the code up on here and i'll help you out with the problem.
p.s the light may keep flashing the same (Quick/short flashes) and that means there's no fault stored on the ecu.
Hope that helps matey
so say you get;
long flash
long flash
short
short
short
that will be code 23!
When you've done that post the code up on here and i'll help you out with the problem.
p.s the light may keep flashing the same (Quick/short flashes) and that means there's no fault stored on the ecu.
Hope that helps matey
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Make sure you disconnect the connectors once you have read the codes LOL
You could connect the green ones together in conjuction with the black ones go for a short off boost drive to reset the ecu and clear the codes and see if it still happening
You could connect the green ones together in conjuction with the black ones go for a short off boost drive to reset the ecu and clear the codes and see if it still happening
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Just out of interest I got a check engine light last night, apparently I have had 3 miss fires on cylinder 3... in 4th gear at about 70mph.
anyone have a smart idea why it might be missing? and what I shoudl relace first.. i.e. plugs?
Ian
anyone have a smart idea why it might be missing? and what I shoudl relace first.. i.e. plugs?
Ian
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OK, so tried looking for this wire over the weekend as ive only just had time with the weather being so cold and crap.
Its like a wire jungle under there, so i gave up before i broke anything.
Now what im finding, is this 'Check Engine' light is only coming on whilst the lights are on at night. If i notice the light come on i can turn the Radio off and the warning light goes off and stays off as long as i keep the radio off.
So im thinking battery or alternator? More so battery, as it only likes to warn me when im trying to build revs up again.
Does this sound logical? Im going to try run some tests on the battery tonight if the rain holds off.
SetoN
Its like a wire jungle under there, so i gave up before i broke anything.
Now what im finding, is this 'Check Engine' light is only coming on whilst the lights are on at night. If i notice the light come on i can turn the Radio off and the warning light goes off and stays off as long as i keep the radio off.
So im thinking battery or alternator? More so battery, as it only likes to warn me when im trying to build revs up again.
Does this sound logical? Im going to try run some tests on the battery tonight if the rain holds off.
SetoN
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I've looked before gave up and just blagged the use of a 'select monitor'
#16
hiya guys,, I am fairly new to my scooby classic and had a two attempts in the cold winds to find my ecu connectors
I unscrewed the tray under the steering column and then laid down towards the foot pedals and then with a good torch i found them TAPED up, they was not easy to find and I would say it was ARMS lengh up toward the steering column,, once you can see the green connectors then the blacks one are bundled togther.. just like other said connect the blacks one and turn ignition to the red lights or look on the link which someone posted
Good Luck !!!
I unscrewed the tray under the steering column and then laid down towards the foot pedals and then with a good torch i found them TAPED up, they was not easy to find and I would say it was ARMS lengh up toward the steering column,, once you can see the green connectors then the blacks one are bundled togther.. just like other said connect the blacks one and turn ignition to the red lights or look on the link which someone posted
Good Luck !!!
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Ok i found the 2 black conections.
2 long fash, 2 short flash.
code 22: Knock sensor
Does this mean my Knock sensor is broke? or is my Knock sensor picking up a fault?
SetoN
2 long fash, 2 short flash.
code 22: Knock sensor
Does this mean my Knock sensor is broke? or is my Knock sensor picking up a fault?
SetoN
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There are a few posts with the same problem as mine just in the last few days.
weird.
SetoN
#20
hiya, must be going around,, lol,, mine is showing knock sensor,, i am taking mine to someone in Elvington tomorrow as the knock could of been moved or damaged, so fingers crossed,, I have seen some on ebay,, so we might end up bidding against eash other lol,, fingers crossed
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Take it easy until you get it replaced as the ECU will not protect your engine from knock (detonation) should it occur (for example if you get some bad fuel).
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Right so im looking for a Knock sensor now.
Funny how many of these posts have come up at the same time. Maybe its the cold wet weather.
Will get onto it over the weekend. Needs fixing.
Thanks for the replys so far
SetoN
Funny how many of these posts have come up at the same time. Maybe its the cold wet weather.
Will get onto it over the weekend. Needs fixing.
Thanks for the replys so far
SetoN
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OK, so tried looking for this wire over the weekend as ive only just had time with the weather being so cold and crap.
Its like a wire jungle under there, so i gave up before i broke anything.
Now what im finding, is this 'Check Engine' light is only coming on whilst the lights are on at night. If i notice the light come on i can turn the Radio off and the warning light goes off and stays off as long as i keep the radio off.
So im thinking battery or alternator? More so battery, as it only likes to warn me when im trying to build revs up again.
Does this sound logical? Im going to try run some tests on the battery tonight if the rain holds off.
SetoN
Its like a wire jungle under there, so i gave up before i broke anything.
Now what im finding, is this 'Check Engine' light is only coming on whilst the lights are on at night. If i notice the light come on i can turn the Radio off and the warning light goes off and stays off as long as i keep the radio off.
So im thinking battery or alternator? More so battery, as it only likes to warn me when im trying to build revs up again.
Does this sound logical? Im going to try run some tests on the battery tonight if the rain holds off.
SetoN
Sounds to me like there could be a short circuit/earth fault somewhere, have you visually checked knock sensor to see if it's loose at all..?
There are two knock sensors BTW (that's if classics are same as newage cars)..!
May be wrong, but I'm sure someone will clarify..
#24
Wife has GX sport with an occasional CEL light
Its the knock sensor apparently poor in this motor
You can relocate it, which in a NA isnt a prob as much as it would be in a turbo, so it is less sensitive to road noise etc
or replace it ensuring it is tourqued to right amount
Personally I couldnt live with the reduced "performance" in an auto GX, but the wife copes and as it is for sale I would want the next person to know about it
we only stick SUL in and that helps
hope that helps
Its the knock sensor apparently poor in this motor
You can relocate it, which in a NA isnt a prob as much as it would be in a turbo, so it is less sensitive to road noise etc
or replace it ensuring it is tourqued to right amount
Personally I couldnt live with the reduced "performance" in an auto GX, but the wife copes and as it is for sale I would want the next person to know about it
we only stick SUL in and that helps
hope that helps
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That's very odd..!
Sounds to me like there could be a short circuit/earth fault somewhere, have you visually checked knock sensor to see if it's loose at all..?
There are two knock sensors BTW (that's if classics are same as newage cars)..!
May be wrong, but I'm sure someone will clarify..
Sounds to me like there could be a short circuit/earth fault somewhere, have you visually checked knock sensor to see if it's loose at all..?
There are two knock sensors BTW (that's if classics are same as newage cars)..!
May be wrong, but I'm sure someone will clarify..
So im going to investigate this Knock sensor over the weekend, see if its loose.
Well first im going to try and find it mines a non turbo, should this be easyer?
SetoN
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Have a similiar problem. Decided to try the black wire trick. How many wires are there under there? Way too many!
Think im gonna have to go to the pro's because the ecu light is bugging me and it only came on yesterday!!!
Good luck to everyone else trying to sort there probs tho.
Think im gonna have to go to the pro's because the ecu light is bugging me and it only came on yesterday!!!
Good luck to everyone else trying to sort there probs tho.
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I was looking for a black 'wire' thats why i gave up forst time round. Give it another go now.